• Heating must be safe. It is no secret that fuels and lubricants, wheel sets, oily rags, and often various building materials that can ignite from any spark are stored in the garage. In addition, garages are often located side by side, which, in the event of a fire in one garage, can lead to a fire in the entire garage cooperative.
• The garage heating system must be designed to work in automatic mode and have a reliable locking system in case of emergencies.
• The system must be reliable and resistant to changes in outdoor air temperatures, as well as to interruptions in the supply of energy.
• Garage heating must be economically viable. Excessive costs for it are unlikely to be approved by its owner.
• It is possible to make a garage heating system that fully meets all of the above requirements only under one condition: heat losses in the garage must be minimal, the building must be reliably insulated, and. If this condition is not met or only partially met, garage heating, whether it is done by one's own hands or installed with the help of qualified specialists, will be used to heat the environment.

Another feature of garage heating, which allows you to do it yourself, is its thermal regime: it is enough to have a positive temperature in the garage, which makes it easy to start the car and maintain a minimum level of humidity in the room. It does not need warming up to + 20-25C, as in a residential area, a temperature of + 5- + 10 C is quite enough.

Choice of fuel for garage heating

Can be used to heat a garage

• solid fuel
• Liquid fuel
• electrical energy

How to arrange garage heating on solid fuel yourself?

The easiest way is to install a potbelly stove in the garage, take the pipe outside and heat it from time to time. You can also use a stove with long burning and convectors in the garage, for example. At the same time, heat transfer occurs due to moving streams of heated air, which makes it possible to classify the heating system as an air heating system with low inertia.

It allows you to quickly warm up the room, but after the end of the combustion of fuel, the garage will also quickly cool down.
It is possible to increase the inertia of the system and thereby create a reserve of heat using water heating. At the same time, heating devices are installed around the perimeter of the garage, and an expansion tank is mounted at the highest point of the system, but indoors.

You can increase the heat reserve with the help of a hydraulic accumulator, a volumetric tank with a layer of thermal insulation. It is better to fill the heating system not with water, but with antifreeze, which will avoid defrosting the system if it has not been used for a long time (the owner parked the car near the house, and there is simply no point in heating an empty garage).

Water heating based on the stove can be done by hand. It allows you to maintain a positive temperature in a well-insulated room for a certain time, depending on the outside temperature, is inexpensive and can run on any type of solid fuel.

Solid fuel boiler in the garage

You can increase the efficiency of the heating system by replacing the furnace. In this case, you can use long-burning boilers that work on one bookmark of firewood from 4 to 10 days, and on a bookmark of coal up to 14 days.

The main disadvantage of a solid fuel garage heating system is the need for constant human control (the only exception is long-burning boilers).

It is much more convenient and efficient to use a natural gas-based heating system, which you can install yourself. However, it is unlikely to conduct main gas to the garage, therefore it is better to use liquefied gas boilers for heating.

For a garage, you can choose any gas boiler, running on bottled gas, floor or wall-mounted, with a closed or open combustion chamber. Practice shows that one cylinder of gas is enough to heat a garage with an area of ​​30 m2 per month. At the same time, liquefied gas heating boilers have the following advantages:

• They are reliable and have a security system that blocks the gas supply in the absence of traction and the temperature of the coolant rises above the permissible value.
• Gas boilers are compact. You can choose a wall-mounted boiler, the installation of which practically does not require free space and a special room.
• Gas boilers are durable and designed to operate for 10 years or more. In fact, the service life of the boiler is practically unlimited.
• Many gas boilers can operate on both liquefied and main gas, subject to slight modification.
• You can choose a boiler with a coaxial chimney, which greatly simplifies installation work, as well as control of the fuel combustion process.
• Gas boilers can be connected to a thermostat and maintain a minimum room temperature, which allows you to optimize heating costs

The disadvantage of gas boilers running on bottled gas is the need to install a bottle outside the garage. Usually it is placed outside in a special metal box. It is strictly forbidden to store cylinders indoors.

Often in garages, electric air heating is installed, based on the use of electric convectors. It is efficient and can work in automatic mode, maintaining a predetermined temperature level in the room. The disadvantage of electric air heating is its low inertia: the air in the room heats up quickly and also cools down quickly.

Modern electric boilers are designed to heat rooms of any size, ranging from 30 m2 to 600 m2 or more, which is great for a garage. The cost of the simplest electric boiler starts from 6 thousand rubles.

Advantages of electric heating boilers:

• Reliability
• compactness
• No chimney required
• The boiler is equipped with a reliable security system in case of overheating of the coolant
• In the event of a short-term power outage, the heating system automatically switches back into operation.

It should be noted that, despite the high cost of a unit of thermal energy generated by an electric boiler, heating a garage based on it is economically justified. Of course, if we are talking about an insulated garage with minimal heat loss.

At the same time, an electric boiler provides the safest type of heating that does not require constant human control, and when installing a boiler with a GSM module, you can control the operation of the heating system using a mobile phone.

For every woman, the main place of stay is the house. Her favorite place in the house is the kitchen, where she spends all her free time inventing all sorts of goodies for her beloved household members. But for men, in addition to the house, there is their inviolable island of habitat - the garage. There, representatives of the male half try to spend a lot of time. Whether it's working with a car or chatting with friends, the men in the garage create a homely and cozy environment. They have the same attitude towards the insulation of the garage. This small room requires optimal insulation, because the walls are thin, and often it is just an iron case. Heating methods - gas, antifreeze, convector, water garage heating.

Types of garage heating

Heating radiators in garages are usually pumped with a non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. This method is not cheap, its efficiency is low, because antifreeze has a low heat transfer. But perhaps, for winter periods in cold garages with high frost penetration, this is the only way out.

precautionary measures

The most common choice to create heat is garage water heating. To do this, you first need to insulate the walls of the garage, if necessary, put brickwork over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls, although in one brick. Of great importance is also the insulated floor, with a thick layer of screed and laying of heat-insulating material. And then the water heating of the garage will have a high percentage of heat transfer.

Video review - waste oil garage water heating

Alternative types of heating

The first step in carrying out water heating you need to organize a reliable heating system. The boiler must be installed in the immediate vicinity of the garage - a maximum of 50 meters. It is possible to complete the procedure for connecting to the boiler with a reserve of power of the heat generator. It would be prudent to purchase a powerful pump and create maximum insulation of heat carriers - pipes, choosing a heat-insulating material in our time is not a problem. The latest types of insulation have maximum thermal insulation. Creating and installing a heating system directly in the garage will require more time and financial costs. But there are times when there is simply no other way. Here comes the work of heating equipment, whether it is water heating of the garage or another type, from the mains. For a garage with an area of ​​​​15-20 square meters. meters requires a heating system with a capacity of 1.2-2 kW. Taking into account all the measures to eliminate heat loss, a 1.5-2 kW boiler will heat the garage space well. But there are two big disadvantages in this method - the high cost of electricity and frequent disconnections from the mains.

If the garage area is large, it makes sense to install a heating boiler using solid or liquid fuels. Liquid fuel retains the efficiency of heat transfer for a long time, the duration of burning of the material is much longer than in other types of heating systems.

Natural gas is a real find

For the owner of the garage, it will be a great success if the main natural gas is connected. Here you should not worry about anything at all - connecting a gas heating boiler is already half resolved. If you connect a double-circuit heating boiler, you can safely wash yourself in a compact shower cubicle after working under the car.

Radiators for direct movement of heat flows into the room, there are convector, air, radiator. Garage air pollution with exhaust gases, volatile substances of gasoline and engine oil, hints in advance at the use air types of radiators. By creating an intense air circulation system, the batteries quickly heat up the room and allow toxic substances to escape through the garage ventilation system. In this case, the machine dries quickly. The only disadvantage of such devices is the increased noise level.

A homemade wood-burning boiler is perfect for heating a garage, greenhouse, bathhouse and, of course, living quarters. For greater convenience, the boiler design should be equipped with a tank for heating water. There is nothing super complicated in the self-assembly of the unit in question. However, the performer must have at least minimal welding skills.

Decide on a suitable type of boiler, create or find a drawing of a suitable unit in an open source, buy the necessary accessories and get to work.

Start by planning the boiler. The best option is a two-chamber unit that can simultaneously heat the serviced premises and heat water for the needs of the owner. Firewood is placed in one chamber of such a boiler, and water is heated in the other. The water chamber is usually placed on top. The heating of the liquid in most cases is provided by the heat of the chimney passing through the tank.

A more advanced and cost-effective option for a wood-burning boiler is a unit that operates using the principles of pyrolysis fuel combustion. In such a boiler, an artificial air deficit is created. As a result, the fuel does not burn, but slowly smolders with the release of pyrolysis gases. The latter provide additional heating and contribute to a significant increase in the efficiency of the heating unit.

The presented manual will offer assembly instructions for both an ordinary and a pyrolysis boiler. You just have to choose the appropriate option and assemble the unit.

Before starting the assembly, perform a series of simple calculations regarding the optimal dimensions and power of the boiler, the dimensions of the heat exchanger, the volume of the tank for heating water and other significant parameters.

In general, the assembly of most of the existing varieties of wood-burning heating units is carried out in the same sequence. To increase the efficiency of the boiler, you can change its main characteristics at your discretion. For example, an increase in the volume of the heat exchanger jacket will slightly increase the thermal efficiency of the equipment.

Choose the best design option, draw up (order, find) drawings and get to work. Start by preparing all the necessary fixtures.

Work set

1. Sheet metal. To assemble the body and internal elements of the boiler, use metal with a thickness of 4-5 mm. Instead of sheet metal, you can use a 200 l barrel or even the body of an old stove of suitable dimensions. It is most convenient to work with a barrel.

   

   





2. Heating radiators.
3. Fasteners.
4. Doors. It is better if the doors are equipped with latches.
5. dampers.

   

6. Metal rod with a diameter of 2 cm.

To assemble the boiler, only high-quality raw materials should be used without signs of corrosion and other damage. The recommended thickness of the metal is due to the requirements for the resistance of the material to high temperatures.

The pump will provide a faster and more stable flow of heated water to the heating batteries, which will help improve the efficiency of the system. In addition to the pump, buy a simple automatic control unit.

Boiler Assembly Manual

As noted, the manual provides instructions for assembling an ordinary wood-burning boiler and a pyrolysis heating unit. There are practically no differences between the two mentioned designs in terms of manufacturing complexity. But the pyrolysis boiler is much more efficient than its standard counterpart. Otherwise, be guided by your own requests and needs.

First step

Prepare the material for the manufacture of the boiler. The most convenient option is a two-hundred-liter barrel with thick walls. Instead of a barrel, sheet steel can be used. Also, for the manufacture of the case, a piece of thick-walled metal pipe with a diameter of about 800 mm and a length of about 1 m is perfect.

It is strongly not recommended to make the boiler body from stainless steel. Compared to ordinary steel, stainless material has a much lower thermal conductivity. As a result, more fuel will be consumed for space heating.

Second step

Prepare the blank for making the bottom of the boiler. The bottom will be steel. The recommended thickness is from 5 cm.

Third step

Prepare the supports for the boiler. They can be made from reinforcing bars with a diameter of 1.4 cm. The optimal length of each support is 30 mm.

Fourth step

Prepare the material for the manufacture of the grate. It can be made from a thick (at least 5 cm) metal circle. Make slits in the circle. Through these holes, air will be supplied to the fuel loaded into the boiler. Ash will also escape through these slots.

Fifth step

Prepare another round blank of metal.

Prepare a metal sheet for assembling a box with an internal partition. Additionally, prepare a sheet of metal for making a water tank. You can also purchase a ready-made water tank. At this point, do what feels right for you.

When all the blanks are ready, proceed directly to the assembly of the boiler.

sixth step

Weld several identical pieces of reinforcing bars inside the body. These elements will be the supports. Fix the reinforcement in a horizontal position at three parallel levels.

On the lower level, you will place the bottom of the wood burning boiler. The second level should be placed above the blower door. Place the third level approximately 20-22 cm lower from the upper edge of the heating unit body.

seventh step

Make a box. You will place it inside the case. Divide the case into two horizontal compartments. In the upper compartment you will load wood for the firebox. Ash will collect in the lower compartment.

Insert the box through a pre-created hole in the side wall of the case and fix it by welding. Such a box is convenient in that you can heat the unit from another room. This solution is especially relevant for baths and other similar premises.

eighth step

Make a blower. There are two options: you can cut a hole and install a door on it. Also, the blower can be made in the form of a drawer, this will eliminate the need to install a door.

With a box it will be much more convenient to clean the boiler from ash.

Ninth step

Weld the bottom closer to the bottom of the unit body, and the grate above it. Fasten the grate so that its installation level coincides with the location of the internal partition in the box.

tenth step

Cut a hole in the boiler lid for the installation of a flue pipe. Then weld the cover and install the chimney.

Eleventh step

Attach a hot water tank above the boiler. Attach the container to the wall surface, about 25-35 cm above the boiler itself. Place the tank so that the flue pipe passes through it. Its heat will provide heating of the liquid.

Video - How to make a do-it-yourself long-burning boiler

Long burning wood burning boiler

This instruction will allow you to assemble a long-burning wood-burning boiler yourself. The main goal is to assemble the installation so that the fuel in it smolders, and does not quickly burn out.

First step

Prepare the body. It is most convenient to use a metal barrel. Cut off the top of the barrel. In the future, you will place a cover with a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm on top. Air will enter the boiler through the pipe. Install a damper on the pipe.

Second step

Attach the inclined flue pipe to the boiler body. The optimal diameter is 150 mm, the length is from 400 cm, the attachment point is on the side of the case, closer to the top of the unit.

Boiler with double walls, between which the coolant will circulate

Third step

Cut a hole from the bottom of the body to clean the boiler from the combustion products of firewood.

Fourth step

Prepare a special cargo. It will provide more efficient and prolonged combustion of fuel. This load is made in the form of a metal disk and is equipped with blades. Cut a hole with a diameter of 20 mm in the load to allow air to enter.

This boiler is ready. Using it is extremely simple: you load firewood, lay a metal load (disk) on top, install a lid with a blower pipe and kindle the fuel.

For greater stability, equip the boiler with metal legs made from rebar scraps.

Installation and connection of the boiler

Proceed with the installation of a wood-burning boiler and its connection. The work is carried out in two stages:

• you cut the pipes of the heating system (supply and return) straight into the boiler body, using special nozzles for this;
• you cut the flue pipe into the water tank.

To increase the safety of the boiler, build a brick screen around it. The wall will protect against accidental contact with hot metal and further increase the heating efficiency - brick is a good heat accumulator.

A wall about 1 m high will suffice. You can lay bricks on edge. Select the dimensions of the fence in accordance with the dimensions of the boiler. Leave a gap of 20-30 cm between the heating unit and the protective screen.

Check boiler. Check the quality of the assembly and the absence of malfunctions in the operation of the equipment. The fuel starts to flare up quite quickly. Usually the first results become noticeable after 20-40 minutes. To regulate the draft and intensity of combustion of the load, use the door (flap) of the blower.

Now you can solve the problems of heating your home on your own. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself wood-burning boiler

We have a ready-made solution for this issue - a compact and inexpensive metal stove for heating a wood-fired garage! Agree that it is cheaper to operate a small portable stove in the garage than to heat the garage with electrical appliances. We can offer a choice of small long-burning stoves that can warm up a small space.

A garage is not only a place to park a car, but also a workshop, and often a “club of interests”. In frosty weather it is very difficult to start the car engine, sometimes it takes so much time, the trip itself becomes irrelevant.

Doing repairs and just exchanging advice is also better at a comfortable temperature. Therefore, it is clear that space heating is one of the problems that motorists solve. Heating a garage is not an easy issue, since this is not only a condition for comfortable maintenance of equipment, but rather a requirement for a normal, civilized maintenance of a car.

The simplest and fastest solution to this issue is the installation of electric heaters, fully automated and fireproof. But what to do if someone has a garage without electricity or has a desire to save money by burning various dreary things? There is a ready-made solution for a wood-burning garage oven.

As a rule, a wood-burning garage stove requires economy and reliability, ease of use, as well as operation on inexpensive fuel. All these aspects are present in a small metal stove, by the way, you can burn not only firewood in it, but also all the garbage that appears. It is not recommended to heat it with coal or peat, otherwise it will quickly burn out, since the combustion temperature of this type of fuel is too high.

Also, these stoves are indispensable for heating change houses. After all, a change house with a stove is an excellent solution for giving. Since you want to relax not only in summer but also in winter, when all the work is completed. In such a change house it is always warm and cozy.

Many stoves for change houses are equipped with a hob, which makes it easy to heat water and cook food. Especially for our customers, PechiMAKS online store offers a wide range of stoves for small spaces such as garages and change houses. As well as related products.

In our time, efficient and economical use of fuel is very relevant. After all, in the cold season, you often have to independently heat private houses, summer cottages, garages, greenhouses and other premises. Many of us think about how to do it efficiently and with minimal financial costs. With one of these simple and effective solutions, we will get acquainted below.

Before we proceed to a direct consideration of the subject of our article, it is necessary to get acquainted with such a term as pyrolysis. This is a process during which any complex chemical compounds are decomposed into simpler components. A prerequisite for this is the impact on the substance of high temperature, which is clearly indicated to us by the prefix "pyro", which is present in the term.

In a narrower sense, pyrolysis means the decomposition of fuel elements such as wood, coal, pellets (granular fuel from wood or organic waste) and some others. Probably, many will be surprised, but when burning firewood, it is not wood that ignites, but gaseous products released during its heating. In fact, when kindling an ordinary fire, we still encounter the process of pyrolysis. But under normal conditions, combustion occurs in the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen, which, ultimately, negatively affects the overall efficiency of our fire or stove. Full-fledged pyrolysis requires limiting the supply of an oxidizer and burning gases separately from smoldering wood or other fuel, for a more complete and economical use of fuel.

To date, there are many variations and design solutions that allow you to create a long-burning furnace. However, despite all the technical differences, the principle of operation of such heating devices remains the same. To ensure better and more efficient fuel consumption, a long-burning wood stove uses the pyrolysis effect discussed above. Thus, the main part of thermal energy is generated due to the combustion of gases released during the decay of wooden logs: methane, hydrogen and other substances. The smoldering of firewood is caused by specially dosing the supply of oxygen to the stove with the help of a regulator. First, the fuel is given the opportunity to flare up qualitatively for about half an hour, and then the access of the oxidizer to the furnace is minimized. Under such conditions, smoldering firewood emits the maximum possible amount of flammable gases, which, burning in a separate chamber, provide heating of the pyrolysis furnace body and high-quality room heating.

You should not try to increase the efficiency of a conventional wood-burning stove by making it go into smoldering mode. The pyrolysis oven must be completely sealed! The usual one in the smoldering mode will simply release combustible gases through the chimney to no avail. And a worse option is also possible: carbon monoxide and other smoldering products will enter the house through leaky oven doors, creating a serious threat to your life.

Often, the design of a pyrolysis furnace provides for the presence of a water cooling circuit, turning it into a full-fledged boiler for the heating system. You can see an example of such a boiler diagram in the figure below.

Advantages and disadvantages of long burning stoves

Actually, let's start with the advantages of pyrolysis furnaces, since there are plenty of them in this design:

• Almost complete combustion of fuel. As a result, long-burning boilers have excellent efficiency indicators, reaching a level of 85%

• Cleaning and maintenance of long-burning stoves is quite simple, since there is practically no ash left after the fuel burns out.
• Environmental friendliness. With the complete combustion of any organic compounds, only water vapor and carbon dioxide are the products of oxidation. The unpleasant odor emitted during the combustion of organic waste is a consequence of incomplete combustion of fuel, when toxic under-oxidized compounds remain as a result. In a pyrolysis furnace, combustible materials decompose completely, therefore, various industrial wastes can be safely used as an energy carrier for it, the burning of which under normal conditions is only allowed at a considerable distance from residential areas at special landfills.
• Loading a new batch of firewood or other fuel must be done much less frequently, about once every 10-15 hours, which is twice as high as conventional stoves and stoves. Some industrial models of pyrolysis boilers can work even longer on one portion of fuel.
• High heating rate of the coolant in the presence of a heat exchange circuit for heating the house.
• The possibility of high-quality and precise adjustment of the power of the boiler. Under normal conditions, it is quite difficult to control the operation of solid fuel heating installations, unlike analogues using liquid or gaseous fuels. But since in the pyrolysis furnace the gas emitted by solid fuel is afterburned in a separate compartment, this problem is also quite effectively solved.

The disadvantages of pyrolysis plants include:

• The high cost of finished pyrolysis boilers. Self-manufacturing allows you to compensate for this shortcoming.
• More stringent fuel moisture requirements. If you use under-dried wood and try to put the unit into operation before it dries, the fire may go out and full pyrolysis will not start.
• Pretty impressive size. In addition, you will need to provide additional space for storing firewood or other fuel.
• The impossibility of completely autonomous work. Fuel will need to be loaded into the oven by hand.
• Industrial models of pyrolysis boilers often use additional blowing of the combustion chamber and pumps for pumping coolant in the heating circuit. Thus, the installation will need to ensure an uninterrupted supply of electricity.
• The risk of extinguishing the pyrolysis chamber under the influence of too much cooled coolant from the heating circuit. This situation is called reverse. To prevent such an incident, a bypass pipe is additionally installed in the structure, through which already heated water is mixed with the cooled water. As a result, the device of the boiler becomes more complicated, and the cost increases. However, a home-made pyrolysis oven without a connected heating system is devoid of this drawback.

How to make a long burning stove yourself?

Of course, the easiest way is to purchase a finished oven, since the range of available models is very wide. However, if you want to save money and you are interested in making a pyrolysis boiler with your own hands, then you should definitely continue reading this article. You can make a long-burning stove from an old gas cylinder, a metal barrel, sheet steel, or other suitable improvised materials. And now we will learn how to do it.

Video: pyrolysis boiler from an old gas cylinder

Preparation of materials and tools

So, from the materials we need:

Basic materials
	Large metal barrel. Its estimated capacity should be about two hundred liters. Its walls must be durable, made of steel or cast iron, without rust and other visible damage.
	Old large volume fire extinguisher
	A piece of wide metal pipe with thick walls;
	Used gas cylinder
	steel sheets
Additional materials
For a boiler with a round base, support legs will be required. They can be made from:
	pieces of reinforcement;
	Pieces of a thin pipe;
	Metal profile (channel);
In addition, you will need: Steel sheet, five millimeters thick, from which we will cut out circles with a diameter equal to the diameter of the barrel itself; Metal profile; Door for the stove (purchased or made independently); A metal pipe with a diameter of 10 centimeters and a length exceeding the dimensions of the barrel by 150 mm; Chimney pipe with a diameter of 15 centimeters and a length of about five meters;

As for the tools, their list is quite small. In our work we will need:

• Ax with a hammer;
• Electric welding portable (or stationary) installation;
• Bulgarian or its substitute in the form of autogen;
• A standard set of marking and measuring tools in the form of a level, plumb line and tape measure;

The choice of the room in which the installation work will be carried out is also important. You must have constant access to electricity, good lighting and ventilation. You should choose spacious rooms with high-quality sound insulation, which will be protected from the effects of precipitation and where it will be possible to safely store all the manufactured elements of the pyrolysis oven.

Wood stove assembly instructions

The installation algorithm for a long-burning pyrolysis furnace consists of the following steps:

	We remove the lid from the barrel. If a fire extinguisher or a cylinder is used as the basis, then its top must be carefully cut off with a grinder (or autogen). The sawing of the cylinder should be done by first opening the valve and pouring water inside. Remember that the top part will still be useful to us later, do not rush to throw it away.
	When making a furnace from sheet steel, keep in mind that a square body will have more stability, rather than a round one.
	On the round bottom of the base of our furnace, we weld support legs from pipes, fittings or a channel.
	We make a clamping circle. It is cut from a steel sheet in such a way as to freely pass into the barrel.
	We connect the circle with the pipe. To do this, cut a hole with a diameter of 10 cm in the center of the pressure circle and weld it to the circle so that when the resulting part is placed inside the barrel, the pipe protrudes 15 cm above its level.
	On the reverse side of the circle, we weld channels crosswise, which will contribute to a better pressing of smoldering firewood.
	We make a lid for our oven. It can be either the upper part cut off at the first stage, or the second steel circle. We also make a round hole in the lid so that the inner tube with the pressure circle moves freely under its own weight and at the same time fits snugly against its edges.
	We mount the door. In the lower part of the base of our pyrolysis oven, we cut a hole for the door and fix it so that after the firewood burns out, the ash can be easily removed.
	Fixing the chimney. We cut a circle with a diameter of 15 centimeters in the upper part of the stove body and fix the chimney pipe by welding. Remember that the minimum length of the pipe must be greater than the cross section of the barrel or other base.
It is advisable to provide a valve for the chimney, which will allow you to further adjust the level of draft. So that it can be cleaned, many make this element of the furnace design collapsible or mount a special door for cleaning. Condensate is more actively collected in the chimney of pyrolysis furnaces, so it is advisable to insulate it. For example, you can cover the pipe with a heat-insulating material and put on top another one of a larger diameter. In addition, thermal insulation should also be provided in places where the chimney passes through the walls, ceiling and roof of the house. The end of the pipe, in order to prevent atmospheric precipitation from entering, must additionally be protected with a reflector.

After assembling the pyrolysis oven, it is advisable to lay a brick around it, which will accumulate heat and help protect the surrounding interior items from excess heat.

Features of operation and maintenance

A long-burning wood-burning stove, in view of its structural differences, has a number of individual features associated with the operation and maintenance of the finished product. Let's look at them in more detail.

Kindling a long-burning stove

It is necessary to melt the pyrolysis oven as follows:

• We remove the lid and take out a pressing circle with a welded pipe from the inside of the barrel.
• We load firewood (or alternative fuel). The maximum level of wood loading will be at the lower edge of the chimney. Logs should be stacked as close as possible to each other, with minimal gaps. From above, on a layer of firewood, we throw a few small dry branches, which we cover with rags soaked in kerosene (or other kindling liquid). If there is no rag at hand, plain paper can replace it.

• Install the clamping circle and close the barrel with a lid. After that, we set fire to a piece of rag or paper and throw it inside the pipe with a pressure circle.
• Matches will not work for you to ignite a long-burning pyrolysis stove, because during the time they fly inside the pipe, the fire at their end will go out.

• About half an hour later, after the firewood flares up well, we restrict air access to the stove with the help of a damper and enjoy warmth and comfort for many hours.

The nuances of operating a pyrolysis furnace

When installing the stove in a room, observe the following rules:

• Since the long-burning stove is very hot, any fusible and combustible materials should be placed away from it.
• There should be plenty of free space around the pyrolysis oven. Place it away from walls and furniture to avoid damage due to excessive heat. However, as already mentioned above, this and the previous problems are partially solved by installing brickwork around the perimeter of the furnace.
• Always leave a small layer of ash after cleaning the oven. This will save our unit from premature burning of the bottom and boiler failure.

Alternative fuel for long burning stove

Of course, dry logs will be the best fuel for a pyrolysis boiler. But, since one of the main goals of installing a stove is to save on space heating, some other combustible materials that are constantly at hand are quite suitable.

Inexpensive pellets (fuel pellets) made from pressed wood and agricultural waste, such as cones, sawdust, wood chips, seed or onion husks, as well as other environmentally friendly materials, will be able to replace firewood. Coal is also suitable, however, it is necessary to take into account the fact that this type of fuel gives off a very powerful heat. It can be loaded into furnaces with a thick steel body, otherwise the pyrolysis furnace will quickly become unusable.

Video: Pyrolysis oven from a barrel

Video: Homemade pyrolysis oven

Video: Long-burning stove from a cylinder

The endless rise in the cost of traditional fuel is forcing consumers to look for new and less expensive ways to generate heat. An excellent and optimal ratio of performance and savings in fuel consumption are. It has a lot of advantages, the most attractive of which are high heat transfer with great savings in fuel resources, fuel lining 1-2 times a day. But, unfortunately, the cost of such a unit is from 1,000 USD, which is not affordable for everyone. The way out is to make such a wood-fired boiler with your own hands.

Let's face it - it's not an easy task. You will need skills in working with gas welding equipment and accurate calculation. Any assembly error can lead to negative consequences: smoke, fire. Therefore, you should be careful and comply with the following conditions:

• correctly determine the design (use the drawing);
• correctly calculate the power of the unit;
• use reliable materials;
• perform high-quality welding;
• install the unit correctly.

Device

The most famous home-made long-burning boiler is the Bubafonya stove, which is capable of P maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises for 12 hours. We talked about how to build Bubafonya in another article "".

Another option for a long-burning wood-fired boiler, operating on the principle of a convection oven, is Slobozhanka. Such a home-made wood-fired boiler is quite economical and suitable for small rooms. With a furnace volume of 200 liters, it can provide heat when kindling with firewood or compacted sawdust from 8 to 12 hours - and this is a very worthy result. How the self-made "Slobozhanka" looks like, look at the photo.

Of course, you won’t put such a structure in an apartment, but for heating a garage, a greenhouse, a small cottage or any other technical room, such a stove is like a godsend: it burns for a long time, it’s not capricious, it’s easy to manufacture.

Design and principle of operation

The principle of operation is simple: two casings, internal and external, between which there is a layer of air. Cold air enters from below, heats up from the hot walls of the inner casing and rises to the top, leaving through a special hole in the outer casing. This hot air heats up the room.

What is needed to make

In the process of work you will need:

• thick-walled pipes;
• metal sheets;
• fittings and metal corners;
• 2 gas cylinders or pieces of a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 250 mm or more, or 2 domestic barrels;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• drill;
• electrodes;
• tools (hammer, chisel).

Assembly order

It turned out that the air supply pipe closes at the bottom with a freely moving circle of metal. It is with the help of this device, by increasing or decreasing the clearance, we will be able to control the intensity of combustion, and hence the temperature in the room.

1. Next, we take a grinder and a disk for metal, with its help in the pipe (the one to which the plug was welded) we make vertical cuts about 1 cm wide. Air will enter the combustion chamber through them.
2. We cut out a flat steel pancake with a diameter slightly smaller than the firebox. Inside it, we make a hole for the air pipe, insert it with the blower down and weld it, stepping back 20-30 cm from its end.

   

3. We begin work with the boiler body. We need to make a cylinder with a sealed bottom. In the case of using an empty gas cylinder, we cut off the upper part, and if we make a cylinder from a thick-walled metal sheet, we weld the bottom.

   

4. We make a chimney. To do this, in the upper side part of the resulting cylinder with a sealed bottom, we make a hole for the exit of gases and weld a pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm.

   

5. The next step is to install the air supply pipe into the boiler in this way: cut a hole in the center of the bottom of the combustion chamber equal to the diameter of the air supply pipe and insert it so that the blower hangs down the boiler, beyond it. In this case, the air supply pipes should end a few centimeters below the place where the chimney is welded.

   

6. Now we make a heat-dissipating disk. We take a metal sheet with a thickness of 10 mm and cut out a pancake a little smaller than the diameter of the body and, for ease of use, we attach a handle made of reinforcement or steel wire to it by welding.

   

7. We carry out a convection casing and fasten it to the furnace. We do it this way: we cook a cylinder with a diameter of several centimeters more from sheet steel than the already existing firebox. Then we connect the oven itself and the convection casing in any of the ways. One of the mounting methods is visible in the photo above.
8. The final step is to make a cover for the stove body. We can use the remaining cut off element from the gas cylinder, a barrel lid will do. We weld a handle to it for convenience - and you're done!

   

Important! For good air circulation in the casing, this home-made long-burning boiler should rise above the floor by at least 25 cm, so you should weld the stops-legs from any available steel elements (corners, channel bars).

The design of the furnace is visible well in this video.

How long-burning boilers on wood "Slobozhanka" work can be seen in these videos:

How to drown

The main distinguishing point from a conventional solid fuel boiler is that the air in the long-burning boiler must be limited. The intensity of the process can be controlled by slightly opening the blower or the top cover.

The operating time of the boiler depends on the amount of fuel loaded, so it is loaded as tightly as possible. Firewood is stacked vertically close to each other. Burning - from top to bottom.

Fuel is loaded as follows:

The flow of smoke and gases from the chimney will indicate the beginning of sustainable combustion.