In a modern apartment, a water heater has become an indispensable part of engineering communications. He is especially remembered with a good word when the hot water is turned off. However, many are afraid of the question of connecting a water heater with their own hands. In fact, connecting a storage water heater in an apartment is not so difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Let's see how to connect a storage water heater with your own hands in practice. At the same time, we will connect it in such a way that it can serve several points of water intake. But first, consider the standard water heater connection diagram and the functional features of its components.

Water heater connection diagram

The standard connection diagram for a storage water heater is shown in the figure below. The configuration of the connection scheme is determined both by the peculiarities of the operation of the water heater itself and by the need to temporarily turn it off and drain the water.

Fig.1.

You should pay attention to the following components of the circuit - this is a tap No. 1, 2, 3 and a check valve.

check valve prevents hot water from draining through the cold water pipe. The principle of operation of the storage water heater is that hot water is squeezed out of the tank under the pressure of cold water. Structurally, this is organized in such a way that cold water is supplied from the bottom of the tank, and hot water is taken from above. In the absence of a non-return valve, hot water will enter the cold water supply system.

It would seem that this is impossible, but it is only at first glance. This situation occurs quite often in the absence of a check valve and the simultaneous shutdown of cold and hot water supply. In this case, when a hot water tap is opened, air is sucked in, and water from the tank goes into the cold water supply system.

Crane No. 1 and Crane No. 2 always work in pairs, they are necessary to cut off the storage water heater from the water supply system. These taps are open when the water heater is connected and closed when it is off. Thanks to these taps, it is possible to turn off the storage water heater not only when the hot water supply is restored, but also to remove it, for example, for repairs.

Crane No. 3 necessary to turn off the hot water supply. It is just as important as the rest of the circuit components. If you do not turn off this tap while using the storage water heater, then your neighbors can use your hot water. This happens because the hot water from the water heater is connected to the central hot water supply system, and all the water will go into the general system.

Installing a storage water heater

The installation of a water heater begins with determining the place where it will be located. At this stage, several requirements must be met.

• It is advisable to install a storage water heater near hot and cold water risers, so it will be easier to turn it on and off.
• The water heater should be installed at such a height that it is convenient to set the required temperature, i.e. the heater control unit must be within reach.
• There must be an electrical outlet near the storage water heater. In this case, the electrical outlet must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from the bathroom or washbasin.
• A storage water heater is a high power electrical appliance and is potentially hazardous. Therefore, it is desirable to provide a separate electrical line for the storage water heater. To connect water heaters with a power of up to 3 kW to the mains, a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm is used. In addition, an RCD (short circuit protection device) is installed on this line, if this device is not installed earlier or the water heater does not have its own RCD.
• To connect the storage water heater, it is necessary to provide two outlets for cold and hot water in the apartment's water supply system.

Fig.2.

If all of the above conditions are met, then the following work must be done to connect the storage water heater.

• Purchase 2 hoses and 2 ball valves.
• Mount the water heater on the wall using the fasteners that usually come with the water heater.
• Install a non-return valve on the cold water inlet to the water heater.
• Install ball valves on the outlets.
• Using hoses, connect the water heater to the outlets of the water supply system.

In practice, when installing a storage water heater, two difficulties are often encountered: lack of space for installation and the lack of outlets for connecting the water heater to the apartment's water supply system. These two questions are fairly easy to answer.

The storage water heater, in principle, can be installed anywhere. Often heaters up to 50 liters can be easily mounted under the sink. Of course, it will not be very convenient to serve it, but this solves the problem of lack of space.

Fig.3.

The water heater can be connected not only to stationary outlets, but also to the installation sites of mixers. To do this, it is necessary to install tees, and from them to conduct taps to the water heater. Such branches can be made from metal-plastic pipes. You can do even easier, use long hoses.

Switching on/off the storage water heater

The initial parameters valve No. 1 and No. 2 are in the closed position, valve No. 3 is in the open position. To turn on the water heater, it is necessary to turn the valve No. 1 and No. 2 to the open position, and the valve No. 3 to the closed position. To turn off the water heater, respectively, vice versa.

How to drain water from a water heater

In order to drain water from the water heater, you must perform the following steps.

• Shut off the tap No. 1 and No. 2.
• Remove the non-return valve, and put a hose on the heater inlet for easy draining.
• Disconnect the pipe or hose from the hot water connection on the water heater.
• After that, the water will merge under the action of gravity through a hose connected to the cold water pipe on the water heater.

PHOTO of water heater connection

Now a few photos of how the water heater is actually connected. It should be said that the connection of the storage water heater should begin with determining the location of its installation. In this example, the water heater is installed above the bath, and the entire pipeline is mounted under the bath and in a box covering the sewer pipes. This was done due to the fact that the water heater was connected after laying the tiles. It didn't turn out very aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, the connection of the water heater must be planned at the stage of laying water pipes.

Fig.4.

The photo shows the supply of hot and cold water to the storage water heater and the installed check valve. I want to pay attention. That winding should be done only together with the connection of the check valve and the pipe with cold water. With this method of connecting with hoses, there is no need to rewind. In this case, it was a necessary measure, because. the hoses were of poor quality. The pressure relief handle is wrapped with electrical tape. cracked over time.

Fig.5.

The photo shows taps No. 1 and No. 2; they are brought directly to the water heater for easy turning on and off.

Fig.6.

Here is the entire system assembled.

Fig.7.

Fig.8.

Shown here is a tie-in to the plumbing. The middle pipe is the hot water supply. It's covered in the photo. The top pipe is the water supply from the water heater to the system. The far right one goes from the water heater, the middle one goes to the bathroom faucet and the left one goes to the rest of the system.

Fig.9.

It is hardly possible to call living in a house or apartment fully comfortable if for some reason, temporarily or permanently, but there is no hot water supply. Even residents of high-rise buildings in large cities are not insured against this - accidents occur, interruptions in the operation of boiler houses, planned supply stops, etc. And about the inhabitants of the private sector or suburban housing, the conversation is generally special - all the problems of providing themselves with hot water completely fall on the owners.

How is it solved? Heating water in a saucepan is not even discussed ... Install a flow water heater option good and not too difficult to perform. But it would probably be wiser to always have at least a small supply of heated water - that is, to install a storage water heater, in other words, a boiler. This publication will discuss the main theoretical issues and give practical advice on how to choose such a device and how to connect the boiler to the water supply.

So, leaving "out of the brackets" instantaneous water heaters, as well as outdated and inconvenient solid fuel"titans", let's pay attention to modern models of boilers. They can be divided into direct and indirect heating devices. And according to the type of energy carrier used, direct heating boilers are divided into gas and electric. In addition, there are models that combine several principles of work.

Boilers for direct heating

In installations of this type, the incoming energy carrier (electricity or natural gas) is consumed exclusively for the needs of hot water supply, without intermediate steps.

Gas storage boiler

Such a device is not very widespread - it is quite complicated to install, requires mandatory approval from the technical supervision authorities, it requires the construction of a chimney system of one type or another, corresponding to supply ventilation to ensure normal gas combustion. In a number of regions, the presence of a special device - a gas analyzer - became a prerequisite for installation. All this does not add to their popularity with homeowners.

Nevertheless, such boilers still "have the right to exist", and in terms of efficiency, they, of course, are superior to electric ones.

What is the device of a gas storage boiler:

• Pos. 1 - a container in which heating and accumulation of hot water is carried out. It is supplied through a pipe (pos. 5), and the intake is through a branch pipe (pos. 6). Not shown in the diagram, but the water tank has a fairly thick outer casing with polyurethane foam insulation, which ensures long-term maintenance of the required water temperature.
• The water tank has a common lower heat exchange wall (pos. 2) with a combustion chamber in which a gas burner (pos. 3) is installed. In addition, heat exchange is carried out when hot combustion products pass through the central channel (pos. 9) before exiting the chimney (pos. 10 )
• The control device as part of the installed temperature sensor and thermostat (pos. 4) constantly monitors the level of water heating, as necessary, turning on or shutting off the gas supply to the burner (pos. 3).
• The safety group (pos. 7) necessarily includes an emergency valve that will relieve excess pressure if the thermostat suddenly fails to maintain a certain temperature.
• To prevent the walls of the tank from becoming overgrown with scale, a magnesium anode (pos. 8) is installed in the boiler. This material has a much lower electrical potential, so free ions of salts dissolved in water will be deposited on it. These anodes are easy to change as needed.

So, despite the excellent performance, such boilers did not become “bestsellers”, as they are difficult to install, and their cost is much higher than that of conventional electric ones.

electric boiler

This type of storage boiler is the most popular among homeowners. Installation of such a device does not require tedious conciliatory procedures, significant alterations or construction and installation works. With a reliable power line, any good owner who has a basic understanding of plumbing work can probably install an electric boiler.

How are electric boilers arranged? They may have a different layout, but the circuit diagram still remains the same:

• The outer body of the boiler (pos. 1) may have one or another decorative design. From separated from the internal water tank (pos. 3) with a layer of polyurethane foam thermal insulation (pos. 2).
• The supply of cold tap water is always carried out to the lower part of the tank through the welded pipe (pos. 4). To avoid creating turbulent fluid flows in the tank, the incoming water is distributed using a special diffuser (pos. 5).
• Hot water, on the contrary, is always taken from the top of the tank through the installed pipe (pos. 9 )
• Water heating occurs with the help of electric heating elements (heaters) of various types (pos. 7).
• The purpose of the magnesium anode (pos. 6) has already been described above.
• The temperature sensor (pos. 8) is connected by an electrical circuit to an electronic or electromechanical thermostat that provides water heating to the temperature set by the user.

Such a scheme of operation of the boiler shows itself perfectly in practice, if the device is chosen correctly, taking into account the need for power and volume. Electric boilers are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, they are quite compact, and most importantly, they have a very affordable price.

Indirect heating boilers

In those private houses (sometimes in city apartments) where an autonomous closed-type water heating system with a single-circuit boiler is installed, indirect heating boilers are often used for hot water needs. In these devices, the water that is used for domestic and hygienic needs (in other words, sanitary) receives heating not from direct heating, but from heat exchange with the heating circuit through which the liquid heat carrier (technical water or other liquid) circulates.

The principal device of an indirect heating boiler is shown in the diagram:

Outer shell (item 1) thermal insulation layer (item 2) and inner tank (item 3) — , all by analogy with a conventional direct heating boiler.

Through the branch pipe (pos. 4), cold sanitary water enters the tank, the flow of which is sprayed using a special baffle (pos. 5). Hot sanitary water is taken in through the pipe in the upper part of the boiler (pos. 6).

In addition, a circulation pipe (pos. 7) is usually provided. A separate additional contour is created, for example, through heated towel rail, with constant circulation of hot water. This achieves two goals: firstly, in the DHW pipe there is always hot water of approximately the same temperature; a in– secondly, such a scheme somewhat simplifies the rather complex system of maintaining the desired temperature for heating sanitary water.

Branch pipes pos. 8 and pos. 9 - tie-in to the house heating system, entrance and exit to the spiral heat exchanger (pos. 10), through which heat energy is transferred from the heating boiler to the hot water supply system. There may be more such "coils", for example, one is connected to the heating system, and the second - to the system of solar heat accumulators.

Boilers of large volume (more than 150 l) usually have an inspection window (pos. 11), closed with a flange plug. In this window, by the way, it is often possible to install an electric heater - a heating element, thus making the boiler more versatile.

Magnesium anode (pos. 12) is an indispensable element for all modern boilers.

An indirect heating boiler must necessarily have its own safety group, monitoring and control device (pos. 13), thermal sensors for generating control signals (pos. 14).

An indirect heating boiler may have a slightly different design, so-called "tank v tank» :

Boiler of indirect heating according to the principle "tank in a tank"

Everything is almost the same, only the circulation of the technical fluid of the heating system goes through the external vessel "A2. An internal tank "B" is installed inside it, in which sanitary water is heated. The surface of the inner tank is made corrugated to increase the area of ​​active heat exchange.

Boilers of indirect heating are distinguished by high productivity (naturally, with the corresponding power of the heating boiler), efficiency. Alas, they also have many shortcomings. Firstly, they are “tied” to the heating system, and when warm days come and the boilers are turned off, they simply stop working. Secondly, such a boiler is a rather massive structure that takes up a lot of space, which is especially important for cramped conditions in city apartments. Probably, from the point of view of convenience, a double-circuit boiler still looks preferable. And thirdly, indirect heating boilers are somewhat “capricious” in terms of adjustments and maintaining the required temperature - they need a rather complicated and cumbersome control system and coordination with the heating circuit.

Combined boilers

Boilers of both direct and indirect heating have their own significant advantages and significant disadvantages. To fully take into account both those and others, to create a kind of "symbiosis" of both schemes - this is the task set by the developers of combined boilers.

The diagram shows one of the typical examples of such devices, a boiler from the SMART family of models.

As can be seen from the figure, this boiler is assembled according to the “indirect” “tank in tank” scheme, but additionally has its own electric heaters ( heating elements). They can be switched on, for example, when the heat energy of the heating system is not enough to raise the temperature of the sanitary water to the required level (often this happens when during the off-season, in autumn or spring, the heating boiler is not used at rated output). Naturally, when the heating season ends, the heating elements will bear the full burden of providing the house with hot water. On the one hand, it is convenient, on the other hand, the system is quite bulky, and besides, the combined boiler does not solve the problem of saving space - it also needs a lot of additional space.

So, to draw a line under the first section of the publication, we can state that the best choice in terms of ease of installation, reliability and ease of operation will still be an electric direct heating boiler. And the fact that it is somewhat less economical - this issue should be resolved by a prudent approach to the use of hot water.

How to choose the right boiler

The range of modern household appliances stores can easily confuse you - which boiler model for an apartment should you prefer, what parameters should you rely on? It is clear that the device must "fit" into the interior of the room - however, this selection criterion should not become decisive in any way. First of all, attention is always paid to operational characteristics, materials for the manufacture of the main components, the availability and reliability of control, monitoring and emergency protection systems.

Required capacity of the water tank of the boiler

Boilers are produced in a wide variety of volumes - from mini-devices with a capacity of about 8 ÷ 10 liters, to powerful installations with storage tanks of 200 liters or more. The “more is better” principle here absolutely unacceptable. There is no point in overpaying for a completely unclaimed volume of heated water, and, in addition, losing wasted and precious space in a cramped apartment. It is better to approach the choice from a practical point of view.

The volume of the heater should depend on the number and type of hot water points in the apartment or house, on the number of people living in it, so that the needs of all residents are met evenly and to the maximum extent, without any inconvenience to others.

Boilers are capable of heating water to very significant temperatures, close even to the boiling point. However, from the standpoint of economy and safety, +60 ° is considered the optimal level of heating. WITH. Let this value not seem small - this is very hot water, the temperature of which the hand cannot withstand. Naturally, such water needs to be diluted with cold water. The table below shows the approximate consumption of hot (60 °) water and, accordingly, diluted to a comfortable temperature:

Guided by these values ​​and knowing the number of people living in the house, armed with a calculator, you can calculate the required volume of the water heater, so that there is enough water for everyone without additional waiting for it to be heated. It is clear that in this case one should proceed from reasonable consumption - if someone needs to take a bath, then there will not be enough hot water for anyone else.

To simplify the calculation as much as possible, a table will be given by which you can quickly determine the recommended boiler volume for specific conditions:

Rated and maximum power of the water heater

It is clear that the more powerful the heating elements of the boiler, the more of them, the higher the total load and power consumption of the installation, the sooner the water will heat up to the set temperature. However, to strictly follow this approach - to choose a device with maximum power, would be a mistake. Do not forget that in-house electrical networks have certain load thresholds, exceeding which, at best, will cause constant operation of protective equipment, and at worst, overheating of the wiring and even the occurrence of a fire hazard.

For the conditions of apartments, private houses, a water heater with a capacity of up to 2500 W will be sufficient. For conventional home electrical networks, this consumption is not extreme, and standard sockets with a ground loop are usually rated for loads up to 3500 watts.

Despite this, any electrician will still give advice - do not rely on the wiring once made by someone, but stretch a separate line from the shield to the boiler. The second tip is that if a boiler with a power of more than 3000 W is selected, then the socket will not be the best option for connecting it - for the complete safety of the line, it is better to organize the connection point of the water heater through an automatic machine designed for currents of 16÷ 25 amperes.

Water heater dimensions and its external layout

Here, it would seem, everything is simple - the boiler is purchased in the right volume, and with the dimensions already - how it will turn out. Not certainly in that way.

• Traditionally, from the moment they appeared in everyday life, electric boilers had a vertical orientation and represented themselves a cylinder suspended from a wall or, for very large volumes, permanently mounted on the floor. The disadvantage of such a cylindrical shape is the irrational use of space, since the device protrudes excessively from the wall.

If a small boiler, up to 30 ÷ 50 liters, can still be raised higher, and it will not be a particular hindrance, then with larger capacities, the loss of space becomes significant.

"Squat" boilers take up less space, but they also have disadvantages

From this point of view, it will be much more convenient to use a vertical “flattened” boiler, and sometimes - parallelepiped designs. They are closer to the wall and allow more free use of space in a cramped room. True, such models are much more expensive, and besides, their inner tank always has several welds, and this is always a kind of "Achilles' heel" for any structure that is constantly in contact with water.

• If the room where the boiler is planned to be installed is wide enough, then it makes sense to consider the feasibility of purchasing a device with horizontal placement on the wall.

In addition to the fact that this saves space, such boilers are praised for the rapid heating of water. True, the overall performance of such water heaters is still lower than that of vertical ones.

The model of the boiler according to the type of body and its placement on the wall must be determined immediately. It is absolutely unacceptable to change the direction of installation, for example, hang horizontally vertically or vice versa - the design features of each model predetermine its placement and connection to water supply networks only in a position strictly specified in the instructions.

Anti-corrosion protection

Without magnesium anodes, perhaps, modern boilers are no longer produced - this simple device allows you to maximize the life of the heaters and the internal capacity of the boiler.

Magnesium anode significantly "pulls" corrosion processes on itself

To purchase such an anode and replace it is not particularly difficult.

What can be added in this aspect - there are more modern anti-corrosion systems with so-called inert anodes. The degree of security of the boiler is much higher here, although the price of such a model is also the same.

Kinds heating elements

• From the very beginning of the appearance of boilers in everyday life, they are installed so-called "wet" electric heaters - heating elements.

Wet heating elements are constantly in contact with water ...

They are directly immersed in the heated water, which means that the heat transfer process is more efficient. However, here lies the main vulnerability of such devices - the water quality can be such that even magnesium anodes do not help, and heaters become overgrown with scale and corrosion deposits in a matter of months.

... and this contact, alas, does not pass without a trace - such heating elements do not differ in durability

• Heaters with "dry" elements are considered more advanced. This, by and large, is no longer a heating element in the literal sense (not a tubular electric heater), but rather a system of powerful heating coils on a ceramic case.

"Dry" heaters are much safer and more durable

Such a "dry" heater is placed in a completely sealed capsule, which is located in the internal volume of the boiler. Contact with water simply cannot be, and such a heater lasts much longer. And it’s easier to change it - for this you don’t even need to drain their tank of water.

Boiler storage tank material

• If you approach from the point of view of the cheapness of the model, then you can purchase a boiler with a conventional steel inner tank with an enamel coating. Perhaps, apart from the low cost, this design has no other advantages - - it is the least resistant to pressure or temperature increase - the enamel can become cracked and start chipping.
• Much more practical in this regard are water heaters with a stainless steel tank. They are not so picky about the hardness and chemical composition of the water heated in them, they are much more hygienic. Stainless steel is a fairly plastic material, therefore it is not afraid of significant temperature changes and, accordingly, pressure - steel compensates for all expansions, and deformation will not occur.

Some boilers with a high-quality stainless steel tank and a “dry” heating element are not even equipped with magnesium anodes due to the lack of such a need.

• The most modern are water heaters with tanks made of glass-porcelain composite. Here we can talk about absolute neutrality to any chemical reagents, the complete absence of even a hint of corrosion or surface deformation.

Under no circumstances will the heated water smell, as is often the case with enameled containers. Moreover, the glass-porcelain coating even has a certain antibacterial effect.

The disadvantage of such water heaters is one - they are still very expensive compared to other models.

Water heater control mechanisms

On the simplest models, there is a simple electromechanical control - a rotating handle, through which the required temperature for heating and maintaining water is set. An obligatory element, as a rule, is a pointer indicator - a thermometer and a light bulb (LED) indicating the heating process or a pause.

In principle, such a scheme of control and management in most cases is quite enough. However, if you wish, you can also purchase more “tricked out” boilers, which have a liquid crystal indication of operating modes, and the possibility of programming has been implemented. For example, with the setting according to the switching on time, according to the heating power level, etc.

Modern boilers may have multifunctional electronic control systems

Such models can be included in the “smart home” system, controlled using special remote controls, and have other interesting, but probably not so popular functions in everyday life.

Fame manufacturer

The question is also important. Giving even if not too much money for an absolute "pig in a poke" is probably not very prudent. Who knows, you might be lucky, but very often the result is just the opposite, and the saddest thing is that there is also no one to claim any warranty obligations from.

In the middle price category, as a rule, Italian, Slovak, Turkish water heaters. They have a solid, neat assembly, but Chinese spare parts are most often used as components, which cannot be called low-quality, but they are still far from world standards.

If the aim for the purchase is guaranteed quality and longevity, along with the most advanced technologies, then German manufacturers have no equal here. In addition, real heaters from Germany are famous for their excellent heat retention characteristics - a fully heated boiler, disconnected from the power supply, will lose no more than 6 — 7 degrees per day.

How to connect the boiler correctly

The installation of an electric direct heating boiler in its regular place can be divided into several distinct technological stages:

• Choosing the optimal location and hanging the water heater on the wall.
• Pipe connection to the boiler and its insertion into the plumbing system.
• Installation and debugging of control and security systems.
• Connecting the boiler to the electrical network.

Mounting the boiler on the wall

It would seem - what is easier than hanging a water heater on the wall in the chosen place? However, frivolity in such a matter absolutely not allowed. Judge for yourself - even a small boiler, say 50 liters, with full filling will weigh about 70 kilograms. What can happen if the mount is unreliable - you can see in the photo.

Even in the best case, if at the time of the fall there were no people below - this is a broken appliance, damaged plumbing, for sure - leaking water, etc. And at worst - in addition to impact injury - there is also the danger of scalding with hot water or getting an electric shock.

• So, the wall material must be such that fasteners are securely held in it. In this capacity, plasterboard walls can not even be considered - in no case can you hang the boiler without a special metal structure.
• The suspensions themselves - dowels or anchors with hooks, must withstand twice the maximum load. For example, fasteners for a boiler with a volume of 120 liters must withstand a shear and bending force of 250 kg.

Usually, conscientious manufacturers complete their models with mounts that are guaranteed to withstand loads. if you have to purchase fasteners on your own, then the golden rule should apply - it is better to take with a huge margin than to doubt whether it is enough or not. Usually, for domestic class boilers, there are enough dowels or anchors with a central rod with a diameter of at least 8 mm, with an outer diameter of a collet or plug - at least 12 mm. The length of the dowel is about 100 - 120 mm.

• The boiler must not be located too far from the draw-off points. The "classic" place of its installation is considered to be a bathroom, a wall above the toilet. True, there may be obstacles to such placement. For example, an overly large water heater simply does not fit there. In addition, there are apartments that have more than one pair of hot and cold water risers - this happens when the “bath-toilet” block and the kitchen are separated. It makes no sense to pull long communications, powering all points from one boiler. The best solution would be to install two heaters - for the bath, and the second, more compact - for kitchen needs.
• The boiler must be placed on the wall in such a way that all its indication and control elements remain open for control, so that there is free access to plumbing fittings and a power supply switch.
• It is recommended to leave a distance of at least 100 mm between the boiler and the ceiling. The suspended water heater should not be placed lower than 500 mm from the floor surface.

• Most suspended boilers have one or two metal mounting strips or brackets welded to the body with holes for hooks. Before marking, carefully measure the distances between these holes so that they can be transferred to the wall. Sometimes in the technical documentation of the water heater, a paper template is attached to the installation instructions for the most accurate marking - this will be even easier.

Vertical axial and horizontal lines are beaten off on the wall, with control at building level assistance. But it marks holes for dowels or anchors. After drilling holes and hammering fasteners into them, the hook is screwed in so that approximately 5 - 7 mm remains outside.

After that, you can hang the boiler on hooks.

• There is another option - the water heater is equipped with a special bracket that is attached to the wall, and on the boiler body there is a “mate” for hanging on this bracket. Then they are used on hooks, and dowels or bolt-type anchors, with a hex key.

Inserting a boiler into the plumbing system of an apartment

This is one of the most difficult tasks. Its meaning lies in the fact that it is necessary to install tees on the cold and hot water lines. Through the "cold" water will be taken to the heater. Through the "hot" boiler will be connected to the internal wiring of hot water.

The classic boiler piping scheme is shown in the diagram:

Time-tested electric boiler to the plumbing system

Blue arrows show the movement of cold water, red, respectively, hot.

By. 1 is the water heater itself.

Pos. 2 and 3 - cold and hot water supply risers. As a rule, at the inlet, in front of the water meters (they are not shown in the diagram), there are shut-off valves - pos. 4 and 5. An important note - when working offline, that is, when using a boiler, the valve pos. 5 is necessarily in a completely blocked state.

Valves pos. 8 and 9 - an element, in principle, optional, but highly recommended. With these taps it will be possible to turn off the boiler, for example, for preventive maintenance or for repair, in no way without affecting all the rest of the apartment layout.

From these valves, the supply usually begins (pos. 10 and 11) to the water heater itself. Flexible hoses or plastic pipes, polypropylene or metal-plastic can be used.

If the hot pipe connection is connected, most often, directly to the boiler, then for cold water it is required to install a safety valve (pos. 12), which can be connected to the drainage system with a thin flexible hose (pos. 13).

Theory is over. Now let's see how this can be done in practice.

• You will need a certain tool and accessories - wrenches (for 22, 24, 27 and 32), gas wrenches, a cutter for plastic pipes, tow for winding joints and a special paste for the same purposes. You can have a few ½ inch and ¾ inch rubber spacers in stock.
• First of all, before starting installation work, both valves at the inlet (pos. 4 and 5) must be closed.
• The next knot is tees. There will be no particular problems if the internal wiring in the house and whether the apartment is made of polypropylene or metal-plastic - you can cut the desired fragment of a pipe, weld or mount a tee on the fittings, and then lead further laying from it to the boiler.

It is more difficult if the pipe is laid steel, and its replacement with a more perfect one - plastic, is not yet planned. So, you have to embed a tee.

In principle, a simple and acceptable solution may be to install a collapsible clip-clamp. A hole is drilled in the pipe, a clip is put on top, it is tightly tightened, and further wiring is made from the resulting outlet.

A tee - a clip allows you to solve the problem to some extent, but it’s still better to make a “major” tie-in

However, this option is not considered too successful - there may be leaks, and there is a high probability of a quick clog in the place of the drilled hole. It is better to cut a pipe section with a grinder, cut the thread with an appropriate lerk, and then “pack” a full-fledged brass tee using a conventional drive or, which is much better - with swivel nut couplings - so-called "Americans".

The most convenient way is to use connections with union nuts - American

Video: how to switch from a metal pipe to a plastic one

• From the installed tee, of course, it is already worthwhile to “get closer” to the boiler by installing plastic pipes.

It is recommended to bring the pipes as close as possible to the water heater. As the last section of the eyeliner, flexible hoses in a metal braid are most often used. So - the shorter they are, the more durable. Long hoses vibrate strongly when starting and closing the water, and this causes accelerated wear.

A prerequisite is that if such flexible hoses are installed, they must be of exceptionally high quality.

However, many craftsmen still prefer to make the eyeliner entirely from polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

Connection without flexible hoses - only from polypropylene pipes

Do not forget that it is recommended to install another pair of shut-off valves before the last section of the piping.

The hot pipe is connected directly to the red pipe of the water heater. You can find recommendations to install an additional tee here with access to the drain tap - but from a practical point of view, such an element has no special application.

On the left, a tee with a diverter valve is mounted on the hot pipe. From a practical point of view - not a particularly necessary detail

Particular attention to the connection of the cold pipe

Here, there are much more strict requirements for connecting water to the boiler.

The main one is the mandatory installation of a safety valve immediately before entering the water heater pipe. This device is essentially represents double acting valve.

Without any exaggeration - the most important element of safety, the safety valve

• A poppet check valve is located in a longitudinal cylinder with a threaded connection - it will not allow water to flow out of the boiler even if there is no pressure at all in the supply pipes.
• The perpendicular cylinder also houses a poppet valve, but with a much stronger spring. Its compression force is calculated in such a way that the valve will open when the pressure in the boiler exceeds the critical point, for example, if the thermostat fails, overheats or even boils water. In this case, excess liquid will be discharged into the drain pipe, and the pressure in the device will return to normal. The drain pipe is often connected with a transparent flexible tube to a sewer or toilet flush tank.

On many models, a lever is provided - it allows you to open the emergency valve manually, for example, to drain water from the tank.

You can often hear complaints that water is dripping from such a valve. You can’t complain about this - you need to rejoice that the valve is working correctly. A valve that is always dry should cause much more concern - there is a possibility that it is clogged.

There are smart people who believe that only a check valve will be enough. This is the worst delusion., which has led to real tragedies more than once.

Another important warning is that no locking devices are allowed to be installed after the valve and before entering the boiler.

Video: The Importance of Installing a Relief Valve

The picture shows the installed valve, above which a tee is packed, which has a lateral outlet through a shut-off valve. This is a completely acceptable and quite convenient improvement in piping the boiler - it is always possible to quickly drain the water from it or use the water supply when for some reason it is not in the water supply.

It happens that the pressure in the plumbing system at home is extremely unstable - there are strong jumps. This is unsafe for the boiler in terms of the occurrence of water hammer. In addition, at elevated pressure, an emergency valve may operate, uselessly discharging water into the sewer system.

It is not difficult to eliminate such a nuisance - you need to install a pressure reducer at the entrance to the apartment or directly in front of the boiler - usually purchased with a nominal value of 2 atmospheres.

When installing valves and reducers, be sure to pay attention to the direction of the arrows printed on their body and indicating the direction of water flow.

“Packing” of threaded plumbing connections is best done on tow using a special sealing paste (for example, Unipack). Tow fibers are wound along the threads strictly clockwise, then smeared with paste on top. It is not required to especially tighten such a pairing with a key - it is twisted all the way, but “without fanaticism”. If necessary, it will even be possible to even make a quarter or even half a turn back - this should not affect the tightness of the connection. In this, this type of winding is much more advantageous, for example, fum tapes.

When connecting flexible hoses and union nuts of American couplings, winding is not required - rubber gaskets cope with the task of sealing.

Boiler piping completed

After all nodes are connected according to the scheme, the quality of all connections is checked, you can conduct a test set of water in the boiler.

• For this, first of all, the shut-off valve at the hot water inlet to the apartment is closed.
• Then, at one of the points of water intake on the mixer, a “hot” tap opens - the air displaced from the tank will exit through it.
• The valve for supplying cold water to the boiler opens.
• The water heater starts to fill up. It is necessary to monitor the moment until water starts to run from the open tap - this will indicate that the boiler is full. After that, close the tap on the mixer. The valve for supplying cold water to the heater always remains open for the entire time the appliance is used.

On this, the final tie-in of the boiler into the water supply system can be considered completed. It remains only to connect the boiler to the power supply, set the required heating temperature on the control panel, and, as it heats up, it is reasonable to use hot water.

Video: how to install a water heater with your own hands

Refusal to use centralized hot water supply is the exception rather than the rule. There are several reasons for this:

• You do not depend on the state of the boiler room, pipelines, repair schedules.
• There is no subscription fee.
• You don't have to wait for hot water to get to your faucet (while the meter keeps spinning).

The cost of the water heater is not so high, the power consumption is also within reason. You can not overpay for installation, installing a boiler with your own hands is a completely affordable operation for a home master. There are also no problems with placement: the tank can be hung in any of the sanitary rooms.

Types of boilers that can be used in a residential area

It would seem that this is just a device for heating water. However, there are a huge number of designs that can be combined into several groups.

There are gas, liquid and solid fuel boilers. In our material, we consider an electric water heater.

Boilers differ in heating method

Differences in boilers by type of heater

Next, we will tell you how to properly install a boiler in residential premises of various types. Depending on the configuration of the object and the climatic zone, the water heater connection scheme differs significantly.

Installation of a water heater with storage

First of all, you need to choose a place where you will install the appliance. There are several criteria, we will distribute them in order of importance:

1. Presence of water pipes nearby. Installation of a storage water heater should not be complicated by laying long water supply systems.
2. Operational safety depends on how correctly the electric water heater is connected to a 220 volt network. It is advisable to allocate a separate power line on an individual group machine.
3. The possibility of tapping into the existing hot water supply system so that the heated water does not enter the common house system. This question does not apply to individual dwellings.
4. The presence of a solid wall on which it is possible to safely install the boiler with your own hands.

Most often, it is advisable to install a water heater in the bathroom. There, the water supply is laid, and the hot pipe, and the main point of consumption. This can lead to two problems:

Of course, if there is a capital wall - such a question is not worth it. We drive the anchor 120–150 mm long, and you can hang at least 300 kg.

Tees and valves to the boiler cut into the lines going from the risers to the consumer (faucet, mixer). Between the tie-in and the riser, a second shut-off valve is required. The system works as follows: close the valve after the hot riser, open the hot water shut-off valve. We use a boiler, heated water does not go into the general system.

If you need to use centralized hot water supply - we close the shut-off valves to the boiler, the taps from the riser are open.

Do-it-yourself instantaneous electric water heater installation

Heating devices without a storage tank solve 2 main problems:

Installation of a country instantaneous water heater does not provide for complex tie-ins into the system and the installation of several stopcocks. You connect the mini boiler to electricity, and start a source of water supply at the inlet.

The main thing is to ensure sufficient water pressure. Flow boilers have a powerful heating system, with a weak flow, the water will boil inside, and the overheating protection will turn off the device.

How to connect instantaneous water heater in the apartment? The scheme is similar to a storage boiler.

Again, the water pressure must be sufficient for trouble-free heating. With such a scheme, it is required to install and connect a water heater with automatic control of switching on. That is, you opened the water - the heating went on. Close the tap - the boiler turned off. The only problem with such flow-throughs is that at least the minimum capacity of the heat exchanger is required. After shutting off the pressure, the water should cool down. This requires volume.

For flow boilers, the electrical connection diagram must necessarily include grounding and RCD. In fact, during operation, you use water that is in direct contact with the heater. In the event of an electrical breakdown, the security system must immediately de-energize the heater.

If you do not know how to install a boiler with your own hands, it is better to turn to professionals to install a flow heater. After installation, you will receive a safety certificate.

Installing an indirect heating boiler

Let's leave aside the hanging of heat exchangers on the heating main, it's still not 100% legal. We will figure out why and how to connect an indirect heating boiler to the general system of individual housing. First of all, this is not just indirect heating. This is a system for replacing the heat source, depending on external conditions. As a rule, the boiler capacity is at least 100 liters, and two heat exchange circuits. A traditional boiler (gas or any other) is connected to them, as well as a solar battery. Not the one that generates electric current, but the collector of solar heat.

As a result, during the operation of the boiler room (for space heating), or in the bright sun, the water in the common boiler always heats up. That is, you receive heat conditionally free of charge. Moreover, if the sun effectively heats water even in cold weather (and modern batteries work even at near zero temperatures), you can save on traditional water heating and use the boiler as a consumable container.

That is, the system “works” the other way around: through the first heat exchanger, the sun heats the water in the tank, and the second coil can supply it to the radiators or the “warm floor” system.

Outcome

Before deciding which water heater to buy, study the conditions of use, and choose the most economical option.

Related videos

Connecting an electric storage water heater is a popular solution for the production of hot water, you can install the equipment yourself. This device is installed for continuous hot water production, and EWH also serves as a backup source of hot water supply in case of temporary absence of hot water from the heating plant.

Device and algorithm of EWH operation

The storage water heater consists of the following main elements:

1. heating element;
2. Thermal insulation;
3. Decorative case;
4. Control system;

Water heater tanks are usually made of steel, polymer ones are much less common. Vessels made of black steel have an inner surface coating of enamel, glass-ceramic.

Another type of tanks are vessels made of high-quality stainless steel. They have a higher cost, but this is offset by a long service life. Two threaded fittings are cut into the tank - cold water inlet and hot water outlet.

Water heaters made of black steel are equipped with a magnesium anode - this device slows down the process of corrosion of the metal walls. The anode is replaced with a new set within the period specified in the manufacturer's documentation. This device increases the service life of the device, but the stainless tank still outperforms the black tank in this indicator.

A heating element built into the container acts as a heating element. The heating element is mounted on a thread and is easily replaced in case of failure. The main cause of problems with the heater is the formation of deposits of hardness salts (scale), deterioration of heat transfer, overheating and subsequent combustion.

Thermal insulation is applied to the surface of the tank, usually by spraying. It is designed to maintain the water temperature, save electricity due to a decrease in the frequency of switching on the heating element, and maintain the accumulated volume of water at the desired temperature.

The decorative case is made of plastic or metal, it has built-in controls - a temperature gauge showing a thermometer (or a digital display).

The algorithm of the device is quite simple. The device is filled with water from a water supply or a water supply tank. The handle sets the heating temperature. The heating element turns on, heating occurs. When the set temperature is reached, heating stops.

When cooling down, heating is regularly switched on to maintain the temperature value. When water is used up, the heating is switched on continuously.

Choosing a place for installing a storage water heater

When determining the installation location of the water heater, several criteria must be followed. According to the installation method, storage EWHs are divided into three types:

1. Wall mounted;
2. floor;
3. Embedded.

The capacity of wall-mounted EWHs has a limit of 200 liters, floor-mounted ones can hold up to 1000 liters of water, built-in ones - from 50 to 1000 liters. The devices have various shapes - cylindrical, rectangular, cubic, combined. The connection method and the choice of installation location often depend on the form. The shape and overall dimensions greatly affect the possibility of placing the device.

According to the orientation of the main volume, two types of products are distinguished - horizontal and vertical. The orientation of the heating element depends on the orientation, trouble-free operation is guaranteed only if the heater is completely constantly covered with water. You can read more about choosing water heaters in this one.

The next important factor is the weight of the device (filled). The weight of wall models does not exceed 200 kg, however, not all walls can withstand this weight. With a low density and reliability of the wall structure, the apparatus will tear out the fasteners and come off. Therefore, in some cases, an auxiliary frame made of metal or rails is constructed to mount the water heater to the wall.

EWH should be placed in close proximity to the points of water intake. With a large length of pipelines to the mixers, the flow of hot water begins only after the high-quality heating of the pipe. This takes a significant amount of heat concentrated in hot water. EWH is mounted in rooms with a constant positive air temperature.

When placing and mounting the EWH, the distances from building structures should be observed. They are necessary for the maintenance and repair of the device.

Self-installation of a water heater

The installation process is divided into several main stages:

1. Stationary fastening;
2. Connection of pipelines;
3. Connection to the power supply;
4. Checking and starting the device.

Stationary fastening

Floor water heaters have adjustable legs or a special stand. Wall-mounted EWHs are mounted using three types of fixtures:

1. Wood screws with a diameter of 0.8 cm and a length of 60 - 70 mm for fastening into wooden walls and supporting structures;
2. Anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 - 16 mm (the diameter of the fastener depends on the weight of the "water heater");
3. Screws with plastic dowels.

Standard fasteners are included with the product along with the support bar. The support bar on the device resembles a DIN rail, designed to improve and simplify the fastening of the tank to the wall.

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

1. Electric drill or perforator;
2. Hammer;
3. Wrenches, screwdrivers;
4. Construction level, tape measure, pencil (marker).

At the first stage, markup is performed. The device is applied to the wall, its contours are marked. Then mark the attachment points. EWH should be located taking into account the future availability of instrument piping.

Holes are drilled at the marking points corresponding to the size of the selected fasteners. Fasteners are mounted, the device is hung. The quality and reliability of fastening is checked, the absence of the possibility of shifting, breaking off the fasteners.

Tying electric storage water heater

Schemes for connecting the storage water heater, depending on the tasks of the device, are divided into two types:

1. Direct connection;
2. Replacement connection.

With a direct connection, the cold water pipeline is connected to the device, the hot water distribution circuit for the mixers diverges from the EWH. This scheme is used in case of hot water production only by accumulative EWH.

Replacement connection is most often made in high-rise apartments. The device is connected as a bypass to the pipeline from the centralized DHW network. When the networks are turned off for repairs in the summer, the water heater is included in the distribution of hot water through the existing wiring, and is disconnected from the hot water riser.

Tying all types of water heaters is made according to the general principle. A safety relief valve is installed on the cold water inlet pipe. An arrow is marked on the valve body; during installation, it must be directed towards the device.

The valve performs several functions:

1. The function of protecting the tank from rupture when the pressure rises;
2. check valve function;
3. Dumping excess water.

PSK has a factory preset pressure. When excess pressure in the tank rises, it discharges a small amount of water through a special hole. A silicone hose is attached to the hole, it is led into the sewer or directly into the sink. By the same principle, the valve operates when water is heated - it expands, the excess is discharged.

When the water is turned off, the PSK locks the water in the EWH - acts as a check valve. The valve is always included in the product package.

Often the question arises - the valve began to leak, what to do? At the same time, it periodically stops flowing. The answer is unequivocal - PSK needs to be replaced. In most cases, when the working element of the valve breaks down, it permanently loses its tightness.

Further, shut-off valves - ball valves - are installed at the inlet and outlet of EWH. At high pressure in the water supply system (more than 5 - 6 atmospheres), a reducer should be installed at the inlet of the water heater to reduce pressure. Instead of ball valves, sometimes they use wall-mounted taps built-in for finishing; a water heater is connected to them through flexible pipes.

Connecting the water heater to the power supply

The electric water heater has an increased power, while operating from a 220V network. Devices of small volume - from 15 to 50 liters, can be connected to a conventional network (with good quality and an appropriate wiring section). But it is better (and safer) to connect the water heater through protective safety devices:

1. Circuit breaker;
2. Residual current device - RCD;
3. Waterproof socket.

The machine protects the product from short circuits, overloads. The current strength AB is selected at 16 A. The best option is to connect the outlet to the shield with a separate line, but not everyone can do it on their own.

Checking and starting the device

To start the device, the tap at the cold water inlet is fully opened, the outlet from the EWH is opened, and the nearest mixer is slightly opened. The container is completely filled with water, air is vented.

The plug is plugged into an outlet, power is supplied. The regulator knob (or buttons) sets the required water temperature. Heating occurs. The water heater is inspected for leaks. At the start-up stage, do not set high temperature values.

During further operation, maintaining excessively high temperatures can lead to the rapid formation of scale. Hot water temperature according to SNiP - no more than 55 degrees Celsius. For EWH, a value of 60 - 70 degrees will be sufficient.

The operation mode of the water heater is checked - the heating element is turned off at a given temperature. This is indicated by the indicator lamp.

Installing a storage water heater on your own is a simple process, accessible to any man with a minimum of skills and tools. During installation, it is necessary to comply with a number of conditions set forth in the equipment documentation and the recommendations of this article.

It is easy to solve the problem of preparing hot water in a house located far from the city limits by installing a boiler. The equipment will allow organizing the supply of the substance of the required temperature to all points of water intake. Safe and fast heating of water can be organized both in the presence of an autonomous water supply system and when using a filled reservoir. Therefore, the answer to the question of whether a boiler is needed in a private house will be in the affirmative. It remains only to decide on the type of equipment (water heater), the scheme of its installation and installation.

Varieties of boilers for a private house

To determine the type of water heater, you need to evaluate the consumption of the substance, the number of water intake points and costs. The market offers boilers for a private house of the following types:

The equipment is not equipped with a heating element. To heat the substance, the water heater needs external sources - a solid fuel or gas boiler, a heating system, a solar battery, etc. For this reason, installing a boiler with your own hands in a private house will require effort and skill. The device is a tank with a volume of up to 1,000 liters with a spiral heat exchanger. Since there is no heating element, heating costs will be minimal, but the waiting time for water treatment increases in comparison with other types of equipment. When installing this type of boiler in a private house, the installation scheme will be as follows.

It should be noted right away that a gas water heater and a gas water heater are two different equipment. The described type of device accumulates cold water, heats it and maintains the temperature, and when the water intake point is opened, it supplies it. You can use a gas boiler for heating a private house of a small area. The equipment is suitable for cottages with gas supply and a well-functioning ventilation system, smoke removal. Otherwise, the use of a gas water heater will be unsafe. The above scheme for installing a boiler in a private house will make installation simple and quick.

The most popular type of equipment. It has a heating element at the bottom of the tank and is connected to the network. If you plan to install the hot water preparation system on your own, then it will be easiest to connect a boiler in a private house of this particular type. The market offers units with a storage tank of various capacities. It is worth remembering here that the larger this parameter, the longer the substance will be heated. Its main advantage is low electricity consumption of 1.5-2 kW/h. To install a storage water boiler in a private house, you must adhere to the following installation scheme.

An excellent option for those homes where hot water is needed in large quantities and constantly (small children, large families). If it is not possible to allocate a separate place or room for the installation of the unit, it is also recommended to choose a flow-through boiler for a private house, the price of which, however, will be higher than conventional storage devices. Electricity consumption - up to 5-6 kW / h. The equipment is compact and does not require special care.

What is better - a boiler or a geyser in a private house?

The answer to this question depends on the amount of water used, the cost of maintenance, the skill of operating and maintaining the equipment, as well as the calculation of the approximate amount for the consumed electricity and gas. It is worth noting the fact that installing a boiler in a private house is easier than connecting a gas column. Difficulties may arise with the last unit, and the installation will not work with your own hands. It is necessary to bring the gas pipeline, ensure excellent ventilation of the room, take care of the chimney and strictly follow the safety rules. Experts recommend even during the construction of a private house to decide on a column or boiler, and if the cottage has already been built, in 87% of cases it is easier and cheaper to organize the installation of a water heater.

Preparing for boiler installation

Having figured out which boiler to choose for a private house, you can begin to organize a water treatment system. Pre-required:

1. Assess the condition of the plumbing system. It is recommended to install polypropylene pipes;
2. Select a location for equipment installation. Free access must be provided to the valves and the unit itself. Installation of wall structures is carried out only on load-bearing walls;
3. Assess the condition of the wiring, especially when installing flow models;
4. Prepare tools and consumables: puncher, adjustable wrenches, mounting tape, metal-plastic pipes, adapters, screwdrivers, etc.

If a boiler is chosen for heating a private house and preparing hot water, then you need to take care of organizing the space, the premises for the system. For safety reasons, everything you need for installation should be at hand.

Do-it-yourself boiler installation steps

You can install a water heater in your own home without obtaining permits, even if gas equipment is being installed. But in the case of the latter, it is worth resorting to the help of specialists in order to ensure the safety of the subsequent operation of the unit. When arranging a water treatment system based on an electric water heater, you will have to additionally figure out how to ground the boiler in a private house with your own hands. Recommendations can be found in the technical data sheet for the device.

The installation itself is carried out according to the following scheme:

They first find out whether it is necessary to ground the boiler in a private house (with a competent laying of the electrical network in the cottage, there will be no difficulties). The first start-up of the system is carried out with open mixers and after squeezing air out of the equipment tank. Commissioning is an important stage, so you need to look closely at the mounted system. If there is no certainty that the self-assembly of the device will take place without problems, it is wiser to entrust professionals.