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With a large abundance of commercially available lighting devices, in some cases it can be very difficult to find the right one for a particular building. At the same time, attractive table or wall lamps can be made even from elements that were not originally created for this. For example, from metal-plastic pipes.

Once, when installing a water supply system, I had a chance to work with metal-plastic pipes. Their pliability, the ability to change the geometry, while maintaining the strength parameters, surprised me well and prompted me to make lamps out of them. Prices for these pipes are low (30-40 rubles per meter), and most of them have their entire bays idle in their stash, left after the last repair.

Rice. 1. One of the possible options for attaching a nickname from a metal-plastic pipe to a shelf.

Absolutely any "man in the house" is capable of making a lamp from a metal-plastic pipe - there will be no need at all for special qualifications and separate tools. Photo 1 shows a lamp, the base of which I turned on a lathe from an oak log. However, it is possible to use other wood for the base, giving the blank absolutely any shape you like. In the absence of a massive blank of the required section, it is possible to glue it from different bars or pieces of boards.

First, in the future base, a hole must be drilled, definitely exactly equal to the outer diameter of the pipe. Further, turning the workpiece over, the hole must be countersunk for flaring the pipe. Having prepared the basis, it is worthwhile to start creating a case for an electric cartridge. It is easiest to make it on a lathe from the required size of wood block. After turning the chuck body from the outside, it is necessary to drill two holes in it: on the one side - for the pipe, and on the back - for the electric chuck.

Before assembling the luminaire, I made small longitudinal cuts at the end of the pipe - 4-5 pcs. 2-3 mm long, trying to evenly distribute them around the circumference of the end edge. With this end, I inserted the pipe into the hole in the base and expanded it. On the other end of the pipe, I put on the body of the electric cartridge. Previously, of course, an electrical wire of the required length must be inserted inside the pipe and other parts of the lamp. After that, it remained only to attach the assembled lamp with screws to the shelf, screw in the lamp and plug it into the outlet.

Rice. 2... Wall Light.

However, you can offer a lot of other simple ways of fixing such lamps. For example, it took me less than an hour to make a wall-mounted version of the lamp (photo 2). To make such a wall mounting element, I used a wooden block 25-30 cm long and 40x60 mm in cross section. I drilled two longitudinal holes in the bar: one blind - according to the diameter of the pipe used, and the other - through for the electric wire. You can do without drilling by choosing longitudinal grooves of appropriate sizes on the back of the bar. Having at your disposal a small lathe, this part is easy to turn. The rest of the details of this lamp are exactly the same as in the previous version. The assembled lamp is attached to the wall with two pairs of screws - one pair fixes the upper end of the bar, and the other the lower one.

Often, when soldering small circuits or individual elements, there are not enough hands to simultaneously hold the wiring or circuit element, solder, soldering iron, sometimes a flashlight or magnifying glass, so the circuit also strives to run away somewhere when soldering. In such situations, the Third Hand comes to the rescue. Many people make such adaptations on their own to fit their needs.

I decided to make such a device without going too far beyond the scope of its application. Rather, making it versatile and with an aesthetic appearance.
Video recording of the step-by-step assembly and test of the device for review.

Materials and tools

1.2 crocodiles with insulation;
2. Details from an old compass;
3. The bottom of the aluminum can;
4. Base for stability made of plastic, wood or metal;
5. 3 flexible legs "Goosenecks", 20cm each;
6. Heat shrinkage 3mm and 5mm;
7. Insulating tape;
8. Hot melt glue;
9. Superglue.

From tools:

1. Pliers;
2. Thermal gun;
3. Lighter;
4. Scissors.

Making a third hand

We need 3 flexible Goosenecks legs of 20cm each. I took them from a USB flashlight and a USB fan, bought in a fixed price list for 60 rubles. The USB flashlight has a flexible leg of 39 cm, it can be cut in half by biting with pliers or wire cutters to get 2 x 19 cm.

The USB fan has a 23 cm leg, so we will leave it.

Now you need to find a suitable base for the stability of the structure. I have a plastic case from a quartz table clock lying around, I will use it.

It is better to take something heavier, depending on your needs. I will not attach large boards from tablets and heavy objects there, so a plastic one will do.
We make 3 holes at the base for flexible legs.

Since hot glue does not adhere well to metal, we will use electrical tape. We wrap the ends of the flexible legs with electrical tape, which will be fixed at the base. This will then allow the flexible legs to be well fixed at the base.

We take 2 crocodiles and put a 3 mm heat shrink on the teeth, as shown in the photo. This is so that metal prongs do not damage the elements on the boards, the winding of wires and do not leave marks on objects that will be fixed by crocodiles.

Glue the crocodile to the end of the flexible leg with super glue. We do not regret the glue) After the glue dries, we put on a 5 mm heat shrink (it will give a good fixation of the crocodile with a flexible leg) as shown in the photo. And we repeat the same with the second leg and the crocodile.

From the old compass we get such a thing with a fixing bolt and nut.

Glue the fixing bolt with super glue inside the flexible leg (it just goes there). Do not regret glue) This will be a universal leg that can be customized and applied to fit your needs. In my case, there will be an additional clamp for wiring or light bulbs and a clip (where the lead is inserted) for the solder wire.

We insert the resulting flexible legs onto the base into the prepared holes, glue with super glue. After the super glue has dried, fix it abundantly with hot melt glue.

You can make 4 legs with hot melt glue, for better stability and anti-slip on the table surface.

I thought about how to take the empty space on the base and decided to make a place for small things necessary for soldering or for pushpins, paper clips, or something else.
The bottom of the aluminum can fit very well. It is necessary to trim the edges, round off the corners and fix with hot melt glue on the base.

Can be used for cargo (for example, a hefty nut)), if I still cling to large boards or heavy objects)

That's all done.
In the case of "The Third Hand" has shown itself not bad. Copes with the task. Holds the circuit well, does not slip. In the photo, the light bulb is weak (there was no other), you can cling and more powerful. The adjustment is convenient, the hot melt glue holds the base of the legs well.

Many people cling to lenses and fans. I refused this. Sometimes it takes up a lot of table space when not in use.
This design and appearance allows you to leave the fixture on the desktop and use it for other purposes. With the help of a universal flexible leg, you can change the design and add the necessary elements (the same fan, magnifying glass, flashlight, another crocodile, diagram drawing) depending on the purpose of use.

By the way, the remaining fan can also be used. In a couple of minutes, making a desktop battery out of it.

As planned, it can be used for more than just soldering.
For example, cling notes with important tasks for the day or a card so as not to forget.

Even the phone holds confidently. I did not plan for this purpose) Nice addition)

I have no doubt that in the process of using it I will find more than one application for this device.