There are many models of moonshine stills of various designs on sale - with dry steamers, bubblers, distillation columns and other effective equipment. But what to do if you have a moonshine still of an old design, but it is made soundly, and you just don’t raise your hand to throw it away? The advice is simple - upgrade.

The role of the tsarga is to remove high-boiling oily substances from the mash vapors under the common name - fusel. It is these impurities that spoil the taste of moonshine and its aroma. The drawer in an industrial moonshine can theoretically make it possible to obtain fairly pure raw alcohol after the first distillation, but this device should not be idealized.

Many articles provide data that a drawer with a length of 15 cm gives a 20-fold degree of cleaning, 35 cm - 50-fold and 45 cm - 65-fold, without explaining what it is - the frequency of cleaning. Many people think that the resulting moonshine becomes 20, 50 or 65 times cleaner. This is not entirely true. The frequency of cleaning shows how many times the mutual contact of the condensate inside the drawer with the nozzle and the vapor phase occurs.

Naturally, the higher the multiplicity, the better the cleaning. But in a household moonshine still, both an industrial and a do-it-yourself tsarga will make it possible to get moonshine three to four times cleaner after the first distillation than without it. Is it worth it to upgrade the device? Certainly yes. Having tried the product obtained from the apparatus using the tsarga, you will be convinced of this. Repeated distillation will further strengthen you in the opinion that such a fairly simple device can radically change your idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat homemade moonshine is.

How to make a do-it-yourself king

There is nothing complicated in the process of making the tsargi. Even a person who has ever held a grinder, a soldering iron and a drill in his hands is able to make the simplest version of this device. It is better if the master knows how to work on a lathe or weld stainless steel. Threading stainless steel by hand is quite difficult, almost impossible. But if you find dies marked R18 or R18F2, then you can try.

What is required for work? Depending on which version of the tsargi you choose. If there is a tendency to experiment, then you can make the tsarga collapsible, consisting of several parts. If you just want to try whether what they say about the role of the tsargi in moonshine is true, then you can make one fragment. The design provides for the possibility of increasing the length in any case.

So, let's start making the tsargi with our own hands. For this you need:

A piece of pipe with a diameter of 35 - 45 mm made of stainless steel, copper or brass. Ordinary steel, cast iron and plastic are not suitable. The first metal will rust very quickly, cast iron is heavy and such pipes are not found, and plastic is unsafe in contact with alcohol vapors. It will not ignite or melt, but such compounds may be formed that no chemist can establish their composition, and it will be difficult for doctors to diagnose.

In addition to the pipe, you will need a threaded fitting, which must be fixed to the lid of the distillation cube using two clamping nuts on silicone gaskets. Rubber is not recommended, unless you can find a heat-resistant one. If the lid of the cube is made of stainless steel, then the fitting can be welded on.

From this fitting, we will begin work. On the side, you need to cut the internal thread so that it can easily be wound onto the pipe. If you made an internal thread on the fitting, then you cut the external one on the body of the drawer. When working with your own hands, such liberties are allowed.

The length of the thread is at least 3 cm. It should be noted that the entire upper part of the device will be held on it. If the drawer for the moonshine still serves as the base of the distillation column, then lateral loads are not expected. But if a side pipeline with a refrigerator is connected to it, then it is desirable that the base be strong.

There should also be a thread on the top of the tsarga. We will connect the outlet of the steam line to the refrigerator, the second section of the drawer or the head of the rectification column to it. We choose the lower part of the tsarga with a length of 35 - 40 cm. If necessary, it is very easy to lengthen it. If there is a thread, you can use any of the known methods for connecting two pipes - an American, a coupling, etc.

Below, 2-3 cm from the edge of the upper thread, we drill a hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm and screw into it, having previously cut the thread, a piece of tube 3-4 cm long - a socket for the thermometer probe. There it will be inserted during operation using a silicone seal.

Seat for thermometer

In the tsarga, the most important thing is not the mechanical method of connection, but its inner part. The volume of the drawer is filled with metal wire spirals - nozzles. Their diameter is 2 - 3 mm, visually they resemble small springs. They are made from stainless steel or copper.

You need a lot of them and it's impossible to do it yourself. It is best to buy special filling on specialized sites. To prevent the filler from waking up inside the tank, a fine mesh of stainless steel or copper is inserted into the lower part of the body of the drawer. It can be cut from an old kitchen strainer, or donated to a new one.

As a last resort, use a dishwashing net, but you only need to choose stainless steel. We push several such meshes inside the pipe and seal them. An even better option is to buy a regular Panchenkov wire nozzle. This is a strip of stainless steel woven, which is twisted into a spiral and tightly inserted into the body of the tsarga.

To some, all these fillers may seem like overkill, but it is they who turn an ordinary pipe into a drawer. It works not only as a filter - the most complex physical and chemical processes of interaction between steam and a condensing liquid take place inside, as a result of which the steam is divided into packet fractions and purified from all kinds of impurities.

When using the drawer, it should be taken into account that the speed of distillation will decrease by 30 percent. But the time spent is compensated by the quality of the product.

September 25, 2018
Specialization: philological education. Experience as a builder - 20 years. Of these, for the last 15 years he led a brigade as a foreman. I know everything about construction - from design and the zero cycle to interior design. Hobbies: Vocal, psychology, quail breeding.

Greetings, my dear readers.

In the manufacture of furniture, each element of its body has its own meaning. An important role is also played by the tsarga, which is little known among ordinary users. What is this element, what is it for, what types of furniture is it present in, what characteristics does it have? Let's figure it all out.

What is a king?

Most of the details of cabinet furniture have fairly simple names. Using these terms, it is possible to quickly understand which particular structural element is being discussed.

Item characteristics

But among the furniture parts there are those whose names say little to non-specialists. Among them is the king. The term comes from the German word "Zarge", which translates as "frame".

Tsarga - a horizontal connecting bar. It is placed between the legs of the bed, sofa, chair, table and other pieces of furniture. The bar strengthens the body and gives it sufficient rigidity. This happens due to the additional fixation of the elements of the product by its ends.

1. Furniture equipped with four or more legs (tables, chairs, etc.). In this case, the tsarga is a frame made of boards or bars that rigidly connects these supports.
2. Beds, sofas, doors. In these designs, the drawers are horizontally oriented crossbars. They provide connection of vertical racks with each other. That is, these are the upper or lower horizontally oriented frame strapping.

1. Panel furniture. In its manufacture, connecting rails are also used. They perform their traditional function - they impart rigidity to the structure.

However, these elements look a little different. Most often, they are a wide and heavy panel. These details play an aesthetic role, often a central one. In addition, such details cover the fixing and other technical elements of the object.

In what pieces of furniture is present

Any rectangular piece of furniture has a connecting element located between the body (or seat, table top) and the supports. At tables and chairs, the mating bar is the most important structural element, mounted around their entire perimeter.

Element materials

The drawer can be made from such materials:

1. From particle boards, including laminated (LDSP), veneered, plasticized or painted.
2. Made from solid natural wood.
3. Made of MDF with or without wood core.
4. From thick plywood, including plasticized, laminated, veneered or painted.
5. From metal (steel, aluminum, bronze, brass, etc.).

In the case of upholstered furniture, the side is often covered with some kind of dense fabric, leather or its substitute.

Tsarga in various furniture

Photo	piece of furniture
	Bed It can have from two to four connecting elements. The exact number depends on: does the bed have a headboard and footboard; is there only one back; whether the headboard and footboard are missing. The connecting elements of the bed are mated with each other and the backrest. This ensures the strength and reliability of the furniture frame. The slats are also responsible for holding the bed, for example, a mattress. planks between the headboard and footboard of the furniture. The connecting elements of the upholstered bed can be covered with sheathing, cloth or leather.
	Table This piece of furniture has a tsarga - a particularly significant connecting element. It mates with each other the table top and supporting legs. The drawer in this case consists of four strips mounted around the perimeter of the object. Fixing rails are only on traditional wooden tables: They are placed under the tabletop and match the legs of the furniture with each other. In addition, the table may have an additional connecting belt located at the bottom. It is called a proleg or a bunch. Fixing the slats to the tabletop gives the piece of furniture additional reliability, strength and stability. Not all table options have a king side. After all, not every model is equipped with four support legs. Therefore, there is no need to connect them to each other.
	Seats (chair, stool, armchair, etc.) For this piece of furniture, the connecting belts, like for the table, can be mounted in two places: the first king is placed at the top of the chair; the second belt of slats is placed below and is called a proleg. In the case of armchairs, the drawer is also mounted at the bottom of the frame. It connects the armrests to each other.
	Sofa In this piece of furniture, the side is mounted from below. She mates with each other armrests. Following the installation of the tsarga, it is sheathed with fabric or leather. In addition to connecting the frame elements to each other, it provides the strength of the sofa. The height of the side of the sofa can be up to 0.3 m, and its length can reach up to 1.9 m.
	Closet This piece of furniture has a connecting bar, the rigidity and strength of its body: It is mounted on longitudinal spans with shelves. In this case, the drawer side is placed in a horizontal position on the back of the cabinet. It mates with each other racks and side walls of furniture. In addition, the drawer can be mounted at the drawers of the cabinet. In this case, it is needed to support them in an even position. It should be noted that the absence of connecting strips in the cabinet will lead to the fact that its body is deformed and warped. Some unscrupulous manufacturers do not mount drawers on their products, thus saving raw materials and trying to reduce the cost of furniture.

Furniture doors, as well as interior analogues

The doors should be mentioned separately. After all, they can be both part of the furniture (if we are talking about cabinets), and a separate element of the room.

For all types of doors, the drawers are necessary to give them additional strength. These elements are two pairs of slats. One of them is oriented horizontally, and the second - vertically.

As materials of manufacture are selected:

• coniferous or deciduous wood;

The inner section, mating the slats with each other, can be made of any facing material. In fact, this part of the door is a decorative insert. The more the frame is installed, the stronger and stiffer the door frame will be.

To complete the appearance, the frame and filling of the door can be decorated:

• laminate;
• natural veneer;
• polyvinyl chloride coating;
• several layers of paint.

The advantages of doors, in the design of which there are drawers:

1. Increased strength and reliability of the design.
2. Convenient step-by-step installation and ease of further repair.
3. Missing seams on the finish and joints of parts.
4. Aesthetic appearance.
5. When you change the elements of its frame, the appearance of the door changes. This situation plays into the hands of those who regularly change the design of their home on their own, thereby saving money.

Do-it-yourself assembly

Often, users undertake to make simple pieces of furniture on their own, for example, a stool, table or chair. Indeed, in their design there are no complex elements, and the work is not very laborious.

Here you need to consider that all elements of furniture must be correctly made:

1. To make a simple stool or chair, you need to prepare four connecting rails.
2. If you choose a solid type of wood for this, the piece of furniture will last a long time.

1. The dimensions of each element depend on the expected dimensions of the stool, table or chair. Based on this, it is extremely important to determine in advance what the length and width of the piece of furniture will be.
2. Corner strips for furniture legs must be cut at an angle, based on its specific design features. This should be taken into account when assembling the item. In addition, it is important to consider at what angle its supports will be fixed.

1. It is necessary not only to do the job correctly, but also to correctly select the material for assembling furniture, as well as the elements of the lifting mechanism (if provided).

When you select furniture in the salon or place an order for its assembly, take a closer look at the quality of execution of its individual parts. Reliability, durability, comfort and service life of a household item depend on it.

Conclusion

The drawer is an important element of the bed frame, as well as any other cabinet furniture. It connects the elements of the subject with each other. Thanks to this, the design becomes stronger, more reliable and durable.

If you have any questions, then voice them in the comments. I say goodbye and good luck in your endeavours.

Obtaining rectified alcohol is the cherished dream of every moonshiner. This is pure ethyl alcohol 96% strength, purified from all third-party impurities. In order to prepare such high-quality alcohol, it is necessary to install a distillation drawer on the moonshine still.

This is a tube of a certain length, made of stainless steel and filled with spiral-shaped prismatic nozzles. The main task of such a device is to separate moonshine vapors into separate fractions of different densities. A do-it-yourself drawer made according to all the rules for a moonshine still allows you to create factory-level equipment.

Why do you need a tsarga for a moonshine

The length of a home-made distillation tsarga should be clearly defined - it is she who is responsible for the frequency of purification of the final product. So, a 15 cm pipe gives 20 times cleaning, 35 cm - 50 times, 45 cm - 60 times cleaning. As you can see, the higher the distillation side, the slower the process of fraction separation, respectively, there are fewer impurities and the higher the strength of the drink.

Even with a standard drawer height of 15-35 cm, you can get an excellent product, but before that, you should definitely clean it with activated carbon or potassium permanganate.

For reference. How to clean moonshine with coal - take the drug at the rate of 50-60 grams per 1 liter of drink, crush and pour. Leave for 5-7 days, shaking occasionally. A week later, you pass it through a regular water filter and get moonshine without fusel oils and foreign odors.

If you want to get 96% alcohol after the first distillation, you will need a 45 cm distillation side. You can buy it, but it will cost quite a lot. The average price is 2600-4800 rubles. And you can do it, although it is not so easy.

How to make a do-it-yourself king

To begin with, let's define what a king is. This is a constructive unit that allows you to clean the moonshine from all impurities and fusel oils as much as possible. If a drawer is installed on a household moonshine, the output will be perfectly pure alcohol, which is usually obtained in the factory.

The key process in the distillation of moonshine is distillation, which is literally translated from lat. means the flow of drops. In the process of heat exchange of alcohol-containing vapors and condensate (drops, phlegm) occurring in the side, moonshine is cleaned 10-15 times better, which allows you to get an absolutely pure product.

To begin with, let's figure out what the tsarga is and what structural elements it includes.

Next, study the structure of the device according to the scheme in order to understand the principle of operation and the main elements. Distillation begins from the moment when water boils in the distillation cube and alcohol-containing vapors begin to rise through the pipe.

• 1,2 - connecting threaded assemblies;
• 3 - fixing the nozzle;
• 4 - stainless steel pipe;
• 5 - thermal insulation (foam rubber, polyethylene foam)
• 6 - chaotic nozzle with contact elements;
• 7 - regular nozzle with contact elements.

The distillation column, as a rule, is assembled from several tsargs. Their volume is completely filled with contact elements, which ensures heat exchange of different fractions - liquid in the form of flowing condensate and steam rising to the top. In order for the condensate layer (phlegm) to be sufficient, the nozzle must be developed and fill the entire space.

How does the reflux process take place?

The production and purification of alcohol is possible only if there is a counterflow of steam from the distillation cube and flowing condensate from the head of the column.

The selection of alcohol is carried out from the liquid phase!

If the steam is not fed with phlegm, heat exchange will become impossible and the rectification process will not occur - the separation of alcohol from steam. In order for the phlegm to be saturated with alcohol-containing steam, it is necessary to install a reflux condenser. After it comes the condenser - the hollow part of the tube, where the liquid is cooled to a certain temperature. Along with the dephlegmator, air vents must be installed, the so-called. alcohol traps, which draw substandard alcohol from the steam, and the excess gas is taken out.

Since alcohol is taken from the liquid (condensate), a small refrigerator must be installed to cool it sufficiently.

The main difference between a rectifying tsarga and a column is that the reflux process proceeds gradually and very slowly. At this time, there is a constant heat exchange of liquid and steam, which allows to achieve a better separation of fractions and, as a result, a cleaner end product.

Necessary materials

• a piece of stainless pipe 15.35 or 45 cm long - the base of the drawer for the moonshine still;
• threaded adapter for fixing the limiter;
• a sieve with minimal holes to prevent spillage of the filler;
• 35-40 metal washcloths made of stainless steel.

In order to check whether the washcloth is really made of stainless steel, take a regular magnet. If it attracts a washcloth, buy it. No - look further.

Filler manufacturing

We repeat, as such a material, spirals from a metal washcloth can be used. You can also purchase miniature glass beads or ceramic filling in a specialized store. Both materials are absolutely inert and have no effect on the finished product.

Cut the washcloth into 2 equal parts and carefully separate the springs. Twist them into small rings to make 3-5 turns.

Be sure to sift the resulting springs so that unnecessary debris does not get into the dephlegmator.

The ideal filler is "Sulzer Roll", which is made of two strips of corrugated fine mesh. During the laying of the roll in the drawer side, the direction of the strips alternates from right to left and left to right, resulting in a regular packing with contact elements.

How to assemble a king

1. Take a 35 pipe, an adapter for 35 from below (mother) and from above by an inch (dad);
2. Screw the distiller on top of the “dad”.
3. Measure 35 cm from the bottom of the pipe and drill a 6 mm hole in the pipe - this will be a sleeve for a thermometer. Insert the probe from a digital thermometer here, which will allow you to control the temperature. Be sure to cover the sleeve with the thermocouple with a rubber band from the dropper so that the connection is airtight.
4. Stuff the pipe with previously prepared springs, glass beads or ceramic fill. Tamp tightly, but do not push anything. It is enough to tap the pipe on the table.
5. Screw the sieve to the bottom and fix it with an adapter.

How to assemble the simplest version of the tsargi with your own hands - video

Probably, you should not dwell on the postulate that a furniture box must have sufficient rigidity so as not to collapse from loads.

What elements in the design achieve this rigidity?

Let's start with body strips. Ever wondered why they are made at all? Many people think that it is only for the convenience of screwing the countertop to the case. But what prevents you from screwing the same table into the corners ?! And after all, no - they design and put slats ... You can conduct an experiment: screw the tabletop onto such a box without slats

Most likely, you will not be able to maintain the same distance between the walls at the level of the bottom and at the level of the countertop, which means that the facades will look crooked. Now put the body strips ... Corresponding in width to the bottom of the box, they will allow you to automatically maintain the desired distance and prevent it from changing.

For the same purpose, it is useful to put several shelves rigidly fixed with couplers in high boxes.

Back wall in any of its versions, also has the function of rigidity, preventing the box from folding in the transverse direction. Even a thin fiberboard board can withstand significant loads. The rear wall should be installed after the diagonals of the box are drawn out (that is, they are the same, which indicates the perpendicularity of the corners).

Stiffening ribs (tsargi) complete the back wall. They are usually made from the same laminate as the case itself. Such stiffeners are installed in boxes that are of considerable size (chest of drawers, cabinets), as well as subject to large impacts. At the same time, due to their considerable thickness (16 mm versus 3 mm), they hold heavy loads. Another important quality of such a rib is the ability to display the corners of the hull along it (lower horizon and sidewalls).

Stiffeners (or drawers) can be placed not only along the back wall, but also, for example, in the middle of a shelf or countertop, to prevent their deflection.

In addition to the tsarg, which is used extremely rarely, in order to prevent the deflection of long shelves (it is preferable, of course, to use short shelves), it is necessary to create additional support points, for example, chipboard racks or install a rack from a pipe (you can either one through or several short racks one above the other.The second option is more rigid).

Not only the size of the rib is important for stiffness, but also its location. Let's consider a diagram.

Construction 2 will be more rigid, because the free diagonals in it are shorter, while in the first one the corners are drawn. That is why the stiffeners should be supplemented with a fiberboard sheet. This combination will be more advantageous.

Another deformation that is possible in furniture made of laminated chipboard is the barrel-shaped curvature of the side walls of the box, which is often found in high and shallow cabinets with a large load and shelves lying freely on shelf supports. At the same time, the back wall is a poor protection against this, and the drawers will also tighten the side walls only in the back of the box, while in the front, such a deformation is quite possible.

The solution to the problem is the installation of several fixed shelves, evenly distributed along the height of the box, which will tighten not only the front, but also the rear parts of the side walls.

It also helps in building rigidity. For example, two boxes tied together will be much tougher than one of the same dimensions.

A considerable proportion of the rigidity of the furniture box is provided by the back wall - consider the options for attaching the rear walls.

For the kitchen table, you can use a countertop made of artificial or natural stone. Before starting work, it is better to immediately make or buy the countertop itself. The dimensions of the countertop can be different, so if necessary, you need to recalculate the length of the drawers.

All other parameters, thickness and width of parts can be left. The only thing to keep in mind is the height of the table. For kitchen 750-760 mm. , for a large dining room 760-780 mm. , the last digit is the maximum.

I made an underframe for an already finished, custom-made tabletop measuring 850/600 mm. , 40 mm thick. . On the bottom of the tabletop, in the recess, a piece of laminate is installed, so fixing the tabletop to the underframe on the furniture corners does not present any difficulties.

The total height of the table is 750 mm. , leg height 710 mm. . The width of the underframe along the facade is 750 mm. , on the side of 500 mm. . Overhangs of a table cover on 50 mm. from all sides. On a facade in a table the box on telescopic or roller guides is installed. I used birch as a material, of course you can use other types of wood, such as pine.

Table legs are made of bars with a section of 50/50 mm. , on two inner edges the legs are planed into a cone so that the lower end is 30/30 mm in section. . Assembly of legs with classic-looking drawers, on spikes.

Kings for the table.

Two side drawers, length 400 mm.
width 120 mm.
thickness 25 mm.

Back tsarga length 650 mm.
width 120 mm.
thickness 25 mm.

On the front side, the tsarga is not solid, but consists of two parts.

The bars of the front tsargi are 650 mm long.
width 38 mm.
thickness 20 mm.

The sizes of the sides are given without taking into account the length of the spikes, all spikes are 30-35 mm long. .
From the front part, the bars are installed so that an opening is obtained for installing a box 650 mm wide. and 80 mm high. .

We make a drawer for the table with a height of 70 mm. , 625 mm wide. , 450 mm deep. . As for the width of the drawer, it is better to first measure the thickness of the guides. The width of the drawer must be less than the width of the opening by two rail thicknesses plus 1 mm. for a free ride.

We must try to make the width immediately exactly, to the millimeter, otherwise it will take a long time to adjust the box. Or unwind and reduce the length of the front and back walls of the box if the box is too wide. Or put something under the guides if the box turned out to be small. In the end, everything can be adjusted, but this is, as they say, extra hemorrhoids.

Facade strip, drawer lid size 397/120 mm. , thickness 15-16 mm. , but you can make it thinner so that the box does not stick out by the legs.

This drawer is mounted on telescopic rails. Of course, you can use roller ones, they are cheaper and easier to adjust. But not everyone likes this rumble when moving out, especially at night. Telescopic guides are two and three-link. It is better to choose three-link ones, with two-link ones the box does not open completely, and, oddly enough, putting them on is more difficult.

In order not to particularly rack your brains, make the markings for the guides in the middle of the opening, and, accordingly, in the middle of the side walls of the box. Divide the drawer in width into two and draw a line parallel to the edge with a pencil. Divide the guide into inner and outer parts. Attach the inner part to the side of the box so that the line is centered in the screw holes, mark with a pencil or immediately with an awl the points for screwing in the screws.

Also mark the outer part of the guide in the middle, from the inside of the side sides. Only first you need to make the platform flush with the legs. I installed two strips 40 mm wide from the inside. , 12 mm thick. , 400 mm long. . They can be glued, or simply screwed with small screws. When installing the external parts of the guides, they should not protrude beyond the line of the facade, but it is better to drown them inward by 2-3 mm. .

It is better to adjust the drawer after you install and secure the countertop. The tabletop is attached to 6-8 corners with self-tapping screws. Next, you need to put the table on some kind of flat surface, and, if necessary, adjust the height of the legs. After the table is fully adjusted, it must be disassembled, disconnected
countertop, remove the guides and drawer handle.

The last stage is the final sanding and painting. There are quite a few options here, this table is first tinted and then covered with clear varnish. I do not have a photo of the finished kitchen, but take my word for it, the color of the underframe and countertop matches
overall kitchen design.