Nothing will prevent you from installing a storage-type electric water heater with your own hands if you are “friends” with tools. Let's look at the main connection diagrams that will help you understand the installation details and connect the boiler to the water supply and the mains.
An electric storage water heater is a heat-insulated storage tank with heating elements (heaters) inside, fittings for supplying cold and discharging hot water and automatic temperature control. They can be wall and floor arrangement, horizontal and vertical. Each type of installation has its own characteristics.
The device of a wall-mounted storage water heater Haier: 1 - hot water outlet; 2 - cold water supply; 3 - storage tank; 4 - thermocouple; 5 - heating element; 6 - magnesium anode (corrosion protection); 7 - brackets
Features of installing a wall-mounted water heater
First of all, when installing a wall-mounted water heater, you need to make sure that the wall can withstand the additional load. Equipment manufacturers recommend taking four times the weight of the boiler filled with water when calculating. But since few people can correctly calculate the loads of building structures, the following rules should be followed:
- The load-bearing wall is able to withstand the weight of almost any domestic water heater.
- When installing a boiler on piers, especially in Khrushchevs, or walls made of hollow bricks, small-capacity tanks can still be hung simply on anchors. More or less capacious drives are best installed on a wall reinforced with racks or mounted on through bolts fixed with a coupler for reliability.
Mounting the storage boiler to the wall
Schemes of connection to water of a wall-mounted storage water heater
The fittings for supplying cold and discharging hot water are located at the bottom of the wall-mounted boiler, and are marked in blue and red, respectively. The connection to the trunk can be made in two ways:
- no security group;
- with the security team.
Schemes without a safety group can be used when connecting a water heater designed for pressure exceeding the pressure in the main cold water supply, if this pressure is stable. In case of unstable, strong pressure in the line, preference should be given to connecting through a security group.
In any case, the connection and installation of the water supply system begins with the insertion of tees into the pipelines of cold and hot water after the taps installed at the entrance of the water supply to the apartment.
Attention! If the pipes in the house have not changed for a long time, you need to check their condition before work. It may be necessary to replace rusted steel pipes with new ones.
Branches are made from the tees to connect the water heater. When the boiler is in operation, the hot water tap must be completely closed. Cold water freely flows to heating, to mixers, to the toilet bowl.
On the boiler, a check safety valve is screwed onto the cold water inlet. It serves as protection against thermal expansion of water in the storage tank, periodically bleeding off its excess. From the drain hole of the valve, a drainage tube is mounted, which should be directed downward and fall into the tank or sewer freely, without kinks that could prevent the draining of excess water in the tank.
Check relief valve
Shut-off valves cannot be installed between the valve and the water heater. But the tee, on the branch of which a tap is installed to empty the tank, can be installed, and is even recommended by manufacturers. The pipe or hose from it must be brought to the sewer, or connected with a tee to the cold water supply pipe to the safety valve.
At the outlet of the hot water boiler and at the inlet of cold water, immediately after the check valve, it is necessary to install taps that block this line during the period when the water heater is not working. After the taps, the pipelines through flexible plumbing hoses or rigid steel or plastic pipes must be connected to the taps from the tees on the mains.
Water supply without a safety group with a pressure reducer: 1 - shut-off valves for the water supply; 2 - water pressure reducer; 3 - shut-off valves of the water heater; 4 - check safety valve; 5 - drainage to the sewer; 6 - valve for draining water from the tank; 7 - storage water heater
If the main water supply requires pressure adjustment, then the reducer or safety group is installed at the cold water inlet after the main taps or on branches from the tees. As a rule, for domestic water heaters in urban areas, it is sufficient to install a pressure reducer that reduces the pressure to the permissible or recommended limits by the manufacturer.
The safety group for an electric water heater is made up of individual elements assembled locally. Not to be confused with the safety group for boilers! The order of their installation is shown in the figure.
Scheme of assembly of the safety group: 1 - check valve; 2 - tee; 3 - "American"; 4 - safety valve FAR 6 bar; 5 - compression fitting for a metal-plastic pipe (draining when pressure is exceeded)
Scheme of water supply through the safety group: 1 - pressure reducer; 2 - valve for draining the tank; 3 - security group; 4 - drain into the sewer when the water pressure is exceeded
For horizontal water heaters, the connection is made according to similar schemes.
Schemes for connecting the water heater to the mains
For safe operation, it is advisable to connect the water heater to the network in a dry place, and it is recommended to cover the cables in a moisture-proof channel. Apart from the boiler, other electrical appliances, especially powerful ones, should not be connected to this branch of the mains. The main elements of the circuit: electrical cable, socket, RCD and automatic.
Cable
The cross section of the cable must be sufficient so that the wiring does not overheat and cause a fire. You will need a copper three-core cable of the NYM brand or its equivalent VVG. The recommended values of the minimum cross-section of a copper core for different capacities of a single-phase water heater are shown in Table 1.
Table 1
Power socket
Water heaters of small capacity can be connected directly to a three-wire waterproof socket with a degree of protection against moisture in accordance with GOST 14254-96, for example, IP44 or another suitable for your situation (see table 2), which is installed on a separate supply from the electrical panel.
table 2
| Degrees of IP protection | IPx0 | IPx1 | IPx2 | IPx3 | IPx4 | IPx5 | IPx6 | IPx7 | IPx8 | |
| No protection | Falling vertical drops | Falling vertical drops at an angle of 15° from the vertical | Spray at 60° from vertical | Spray from all sides | Jets from all sides under low pressure | strong currents | Temporary immersion (up to 1 m) | Full immersion | ||
| IP 0x | No protection | IP 00 | ||||||||
| IP 1x | Particles > 50 mm | IP 10 | IP 11 | IP 12 | ||||||
| IP 2x | Particles > 12.5 mm | IP20 | IP 21 | IP 22 | IP 23 | |||||
| IP 3x | Particles > 2.5 mm | IP 30 | IP 31 | IP 32 | IP 33 | IP 34 | ||||
| IP4x | Particles > 1 mm | IP40 | IP 41 | IP 42 | IP 43 | IP44 | ||||
| IP 5x | Dust partially | IP 50 | IP 54 | IP65 | ||||||
| IP6x | Dust completely | IP60 | IP65 | IP66 | IP67 | IP68 | ||||
Ground socket
Such a socket outwardly differs from a two-wire socket by the presence of metal contacts (terminals) for grounding.
Wiring diagram for a grounded socket
Protection Devices - RCDs and Circuit Breakers
It is recommended to include a residual current device (RCD) in the electrical circuit for connecting water heaters (especially at increased power). It is designed to block the operation of the equipment in the event of a current leakage to the case. The current strength at which blocking occurs is indicated on the device and must be 10 mA for the operation of the boiler. This parameter indicates the difference between the current entering and exiting the water heater.
The choice of RCD based on the power of the water heater is shown in table 3.
Table 3
The type of RCD for the AC network is "A" or "AC". When choosing a device, you should give preference to a more expensive, electromechanical one - it is more reliable, works faster and provides higher protection.
In some boilers, the RCD is included in the basic package and is located directly in the case, in other models it must be purchased additionally.
The appearance of the RCD
Externally, the RCD and the differential switch (diffavtomat) are very similar, but they are easy to distinguish by marking. A conventional machine cuts off the current to the equipment when the voltage rises, and the differential machine simultaneously performs the function of both the RCD and the machine.
The choice of a two-pole machine for the power of a single-phase water heater is given in table 4.
Table 4
When choosing overly sensitive protection devices, the boiler will constantly turn off, and the water will not heat up normally.
Wiring diagrams
The connection scheme is adopted depending on the desired level and instrumentation of protection of people and equipment. Below are a few common circuits, as well as a video that provides detailed explanations of these circuits.
Plug-in connection only
Protection - double automatic: 1 - fork; 2 - socket; 3 - double machine; 4 - shield; grounding
Connection through the electrical panel: 1 - automatic; 2 - RCD; 3 - electrical panel
In the RCD + double automatic circuit: 1 - RCD 10 mA; 2 - fork; 3 - socket IP44; 4 - double machine; 5 - water heater line; 6 - apartment line; 7 - electrical panel; 8 - grounding
According to safety rules, all electrical work is carried out with the power supply turned off at an individual electrical panel. Do not turn on the water heater without filling it with water. Do not drain the water from it without turning off the electricity.
Features of connecting a floor water heater
Since such a heater is installed on the floor, all supplies to it are located not on the bottom panel, but at the bottom of the side or rear vertical wall. In everyday life, such storage boilers are rarely used, since the smallest of them have a tank volume of 100-150 liters. In addition, they take up a lot of space and have a large power, placing serious demands on electrical wiring and safety automation.
Connection to water for floor-standing heaters is carried out similarly to wall-mounted models. The connection to the mains, due to the relatively high power, must be carried out exclusively through a separate shield.
For owners of suburban real estate, the organization of an autonomous water heating system is practically a necessity. After all, you must agree, what kind of comfort can we talk about if there is no hot water in the house? Electrical appliances for heating water are extremely popular when organizing autonomous water supply for a private house.
Such devices can also be used in apartments so that there are no problems with hot water. They cost a lot, so installing a storage water heater with your own hands will significantly reduce costs.
In this article we will talk about the rules for installing these devices. We will tell you how they work and what you need to know before starting installation. Also in the article you will find diagrams that allow you to correctly install the storage water heater. For clarity, the article contains videos with tips for installing heaters.
Storage type electric water heaters are quite simple. Typically, such a device is a container inside which a heating element is installed - a powerful heating element. Since the device is designed to store hot water, it is mandatory to insulate it.
Two pipes are built inside: through one of them, cold water is taken from the plumbing system, through the second, a stream heated to a certain temperature is supplied to the DHW circuit. To regulate the operation of the device, an automatic control unit is used.
Image gallery
This diagram clearly demonstrates the principle of operation of a storage water heater, as well as the general procedure for connecting it to the water supply system in an apartment.
The order of installation of such heaters
The simple design ensures exceptional reliability of storage water heaters. Installing such a device is not too difficult, but it is necessary to take into account a number of important nuances.
First you need to choose a place where the heater will be installed. After that, it is installed, as well as connected to the plumbing system and to the power supply.
For domestic needs, relatively small wall models are most often used. They are hung on special brackets. For a vertical type model, two brackets are used, and for a horizontal device, four such elements are needed.
The procedure for fixing the brackets to the wall is simple; for this, suitable self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are usually used.
In addition, for two-phase boilers it is almost always necessary to install a residual current device. The cable must also be protected from moisture, as well as durable and sufficiently elastic.
Do not save on cable by buying products of dubious quality. In addition, it is necessary to take an electric cable to connect the storage heater with a sufficient margin. The wire must not be under tension.
Before connecting, carefully study the marking of the cable. Inexperienced beginners sometimes get confused and connect the phase to the ground loop.
If there is no experience in electrical work, it makes sense to seek the advice of an experienced electrician or entrust him with this stage of installing the water heater.
Be sure to ground the heater. To do this, you can use a piece of metal wire, one end of which is fixed on the heater body, and the other is connected to the ground loop.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
A description of how to install a storage water heater is given here:
This video contains a number of useful tips for installing storage water heaters:
Storage water heaters are popular and reliable, they provide the house with hot water in the required quantity. Their installation is not so difficult, but you must strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations and safety precautions.
If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in installing storage water heaters, please share it with our readers. Leave your comments at the bottom of the article. There you can also ask questions about the topic of the article.
An electric heater and a boiler are equally in demand today. How to install such equipment will be described in this article. With the help of such a device, you can cope with the problems of turning off hot water. Among other things, such installations can work on an ongoing basis. In a wide range in modern stores, you can find storage or flow-through electric boilers, the latter of which are less in demand, because they are inferior to storage ones in terms of volume and profitability. To install such a device, you can use the services of specialists or cope with the work yourself, but you will need to follow all safety rules. To do this, the electricity is completely turned off, and the hot water pipes are blocked.
Preparation of materials
If you decide to purchase such equipment, you should find out in advance. Of course, doing the work yourself is cheaper. If you refuse the services of professionals, then you should prepare a certain set of materials for installation. You will need either a safety valve, two flexible water hoses, and two dowel-nails. When buying a water hose, you should take into account that you will need two elements, each of which is 2 m long. However, the length will depend on the distance to the tie-in to the water supply system. When buying dowel-nails, it should be noted that there must be hooks at their ends. By the way, about the safety valve. It should be mentioned that it comes with an electric boiler. The valve must have a diameter of 10 mm.
Instrument preparation
So, you need a boiler. How to install such equipment, you should know even before you purchase it. Do you want to do the installation yourself? Good luck! However, it is worth considering that in some cases, if the work is carried out independently, the manufacturer's warranty will be canceled. In addition to materials, certain tools should be prepared, among them: screwdrivers, drills with a victorious tip for attaching to a brick wall, an adjustable wrench and a puncher. The latter can be replaced with an electric drill.
Installation instructions
Many home craftsmen, having learned how much it costs to install a boiler, prefer to do all the work on their own. This is not surprising, given that such services cost about 5,000 rubles. Do you have skills and do you know which side to approach the puncher and how to hold a screwdriver? Then why overpay? But if you do the installation yourself, you will have to prepare properly. Not the last role here is played by the reviews of those people who are not new to doing such a thing. If you study all the recommendations, you can come to the following.
The process should begin by choosing a place to mount in the bathroom or bathroom. Most often, such equipment is installed above the toilet, where it will not interfere with anyone. It is necessary to check the strength of the wall, as it will have to endure the load from the boiler. If there are unreinforced drywall partitions in the room, then you should refrain from installing the unit on them. With a boiler volume of 50 liters or more, a double load will fall on the wall, that is, 100 kg.
Before you install the boiler in the apartment, you should decide on the lowest point of the location of the equipment, marking it on the wall surface. Next, the master measures the distance from the mounting plate to the bottom point. The first is firmly welded to the body of the equipment. The resulting distance must be marked on the wall. The next step is to drill two holes. The craftsmen emphasize that you need to remember that the mounting plate does not have such holes; anchors with a hook at the end should cling to its edge.
So, everything is ready to mount the boiler on the wall. How to install it correctly? The question is by no means idle: the structure must be securely fastened, because the fall of such a massive device can cause injury. If the wall is made of concrete or brick, then for the work of the master it is recommended to use a puncher with a victorious drill. For a wooden wall, a conventional wood drill is used, the diameter of which is smaller than that of a plastic dowel. The latter must be installed in the hole and, if necessary, driven in.
The metal anchor is screwed in until it stops turning. As a rule, a depth of 12 cm is sufficient. The boiler should be hung by hooking the anchor hooks on the bar to fix it on the unit body. On this, the process of hanging the equipment can be considered completed. As you can see, the technology is not very complicated, so any home master can master it. At the next stage, you can connect the boiler to the water supply system, for this you should use flexible hoses.
We connect!
Judging by the reviews, polypropylene pipes can be used instead of flexible hoses, but it will cost more and take more time. There are two tubes at the bottom of the boiler, one of which has a blue plastic ring. Cold water will flow through it. The second tube is indicated in red and is intended for hot water outlet.
According to the craftsmen, in the place where cold water is supplied, a safety valve should be installed. It is usually supplied in the kit or purchased separately. The first step is to attach the relief valve. Do not forget to pre-wrap sanitary flax or sealing tape on the thread.
Masters advise at the next stage to screw one end of the flexible hose onto the safety valve. In this case, it is necessary to refuse to use the tape, since there is a rubber gasket in the hose nut that acts as a sealant. Well, the question of how to install a boiler in an apartment is practically solved. The next step is to screw one end of the flexible hose to the pipe from which the hot coolant comes. In this case, sealing tape is also not required.
Now you can start connecting the free ends of the hoses. The end to which cold water will flow should be connected to the water pipe. A valve or tap must first be installed at this place, which will, if necessary, shut off the fluid supply. Do not neglect this recommendation, as the boiler may fail during operation or require replacement of spare parts. The free end of the other hose must be connected to the pipe that goes to the faucet.
In principle, it is not difficult to install a water boiler on your own. You just need to arm yourself with certain knowledge (in addition to tools and materials). And there are many nuances in such a case. In particular, before connecting the unit, it is necessary to remove the tees on the water pipes. In the absence of certain experience, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. Now you can do the electrical part. If we are talking about Thermex brand water heaters, then they have one feature, which is the presence of a cable for connection along with a plug in the kit. Moreover, this element is connected to the boiler. If this is not the case, then consumables will have to be purchased separately.
And further. In order for everything to go without a hitch without a hitch (read - without accidents), the masters strongly recommend observing safety precautions when working with electricity.
What else needs to be considered when carrying out work
If you are faced with the question of how to properly install the boiler, then you should know that you do not have to open the lid if everything is already connected in the equipment. It is enough to install a grounded socket in advance, which should be located near the equipment. You should turn on the cold water tap to check how tight and secure the connection is. If there are no leaks, the boiler plug can be connected to the outlet. Now you know how to install. If you did everything correctly, then the indicator on the case should light up. After that, you can set a certain temperature using the regulator, which is usually located at the bottom.
Conclusion
It is important to remember the main mistakes that are made when connecting the equipment described in the article. In particular, before installing a boiler in the bathroom, the masters recommend taking care of the presence of a circulation system. This will minimize energy losses if hot water is constantly in the pipes.
How to provide hot water to a dwelling in which hot water supply is not provided or is regularly turned off? With a heater. On sale you can find convenient devices of various designs and performance.
They are relatively easy to install and manage. The most important step in installing the device is connecting it to the plumbing system at home. If the connection diagram of the water heater to the water supply is exactly observed, the unit will faithfully serve for many years.
When installing such a complex electrical appliance yourself, a number of important nuances should be taken into account.
The most popular among buyers are two types of devices: storage devices, they are also called boilers, and instantaneous water heaters.
Water boilers: a necessary modern attribute in the bathroom
The first function as follows: cold water enters a special tank equipped with a heating element.
There it is heated to the required temperature and then fed into the plumbing system. There is no storage tank in the flow heater, the water is heated in the process of passing through a special flask in which the heating element is placed.
Therefore, the procedure for connecting devices of different types to the water supply system varies significantly.
Boilers are easier to install, they are usually cheaper than flow heaters and less demanding on the quality of the electrical network than flow devices.
Therefore, storage units are much more popular. Flow heaters are installed as close as possible to the hot water tap, for example, directly on the water tap.
The device allows you to get hot water almost instantly, but the cost of heating will be quite large.
What should be considered before starting installation?
Good preparation is the key to a successful heater installation. First, it is recommended to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions, paying special attention to safety issues.
The next important point is the choice of a place to install the heater. Here are some helpful points:
- The instrument must be available for maintenance at all times.
- To install a wall-mounted model, choose a wall that can support twice the weight of the appliance when fully loaded.
- It is necessary to diagnose the condition of the wiring, correct the identified shortcomings and compare the characteristics with the manufacturer's requirements.
- Examine the condition of the plumbing system: pipes and risers, since the operation of the heater depends not only on the quantity, but also on the quality of the incoming water.
If the location for the heater is chosen correctly, it will be easier to install and maintain.
Tools and materials
The set of tools and materials required to connect the water heater to the water supply system may vary depending on the features of the device.
A novice master can focus on the following approximate list:
- perforator with a set of nozzles;
- wrench and adjustable wrench;
- straight and Phillips screwdriver;
- roulette;
- wire cutters;
- pliers, etc.
In addition, you will need pipes and fittings to connect the heater to the plumbing system. Means of sealing joints are needed: linen thread, FUM tape, special paste.
It does not hurt to stock up in advance with a pair of connecting hoses, two or three stopcocks and the same number of tees.
To connect the boiler to the water supply, you can use special flexible hoses of a suitable size, but not too long
Only fasteners are usually supplied with the heater, and they are not always suitable for a particular situation.
For example, if you plan to install the device on a wall with a thick finishing layer, you should stock up on sufficiently long fasteners.
Various boiler connection schemes
To connect the boiler to the water supply, they usually use the scheme shown below:
The diagram shows the procedure for connecting a storage water heater to a conventional plumbing system. The location of the taps, shut-off valve, drain, etc. is indicated.
The figure shows the conditional arrangement of risers, which are indicated by the words “cold water” and “hot water”. The numbers “1” and “2” refer to conventional stopcocks.
One of them is opened so that cold water enters the tank, through the other, the liquid heated to the desired temperature is supplied to the hot part of the water supply.
In those periods when the storage water heater is not working, it is recommended to close these taps.
Under the numbers "3" and "4" is another pair of taps. These devices are responsible for the flow of water into the apartment from a common riser.
Usually they are available in every apartment, regardless of whether the apartment has a boiler or not. And if tap “3”, through which cold water flows, is closed only if it is necessary to stop the supply of water to the apartment, then tap “4” should be completely closed during the operation of the heater.
If this is not done, then hot water from the boiler will go into the house riser.
The number “5” is the mounting location of the check valve. This is a very important element of the water heater connection system, as it protects the equipment from damage.
In the event of a shutdown of cold water (which happens not as rarely as we would like), it is the check valve that will not allow the liquid to leave the storage tank of the boiler.
In the absence of a check valve, water will leave the device back into the riser. As a result, the heating elements will run idle, which will lead to their rapid failure.
It should be remembered that boiler manufacturers usually include a non-return valve in the delivery package, so it is necessary to clarify its presence even during the purchase of the device.
When connecting a storage heater to the water supply system, stopcocks are used, with which you can control the flow of water into the tank
The tap, which is marked with the number “6”, is designed to drain water from the water heater tank. This crane is used extremely rarely, for example, if the device needs to be repaired or it is intended to be dismantled.
In this case, according to the technology, the water from the tank must be drained. Do not neglect the installation of this element, since emptying the large capacity tank in other ways can be quite laborious.
The drain valve must always be slightly higher than the non-return valve, otherwise it will not be possible to remove water from the tank.
Thus, if the storage water heater is working, then taps “1”, “2” and “3” should be open, and tap “4” should be closed. If the boiler is turned off, it is necessary to close the taps “1” and “2”, and the taps “3” and “4” should be opened.
Detailed information on connecting a storage water heater to the water supply system is presented in the following video:
If there is no plumbing
In many private houses, and even in large cottages, a storage tank is part of the plumbing system.
Sometimes this is the only way to ensure normal water pressure in the pipes in the house. A storage water heater can also be connected to such a system, but a number of nuances should be taken into account: the distance from the tank to the boiler, as well as the pressure in the water supply.
If the space between the water heater and the tank is less than two meters, you can use the following connection to the water supply:
But it also happens that the distance between these devices is more than two meters. In this case, a special safety valve should be placed between the tank and the tap, as shown in the diagram:
If the distance between the tank and the storage water heater exceeds two meters, a safety valve must be included in the connection diagram.
If the pressure in the water supply system of the house exceeds 6 bar, experts recommend installing a reducer in front of the water heater, which will reduce the pressure of the water entering the heating tank.
Technical features of connecting the boiler
If the diagram for the correct connection of the boiler to the water supply is drawn up, it's time to start implementing it. In this case, a lot depends on which pipes were used to create the water supply.
In old houses, steel pipes can often be found, although they are often replaced with more fashionable polypropylene or metal-plastic. When installing the boiler, you should take into account the features of working with pipes of various types.
There are no special requirements for the material of the structures connecting the boiler and the water supply. They can even be connected with a sufficiently strong hose of a suitable diameter and length.
Regardless of the type of pipes, before starting any work on connecting equipment to the water supply, be sure to turn off the water supply in the risers.
How to connect a heater to steel pipes
For this, it is not necessary to use a welding machine, since the connection can be made using special tees, the so-called “vampires”.
The design of such a tee resembles a conventional tightening collar, on the sides of which there are branch pipes. The ends are already threaded.
To install the vampire tee, first install it in a suitable place and tighten it with screws.
Between the metal part of the tee and the pipe, put the gasket that comes with the device. It is important that the gaps in the gasket and the tee intended for mounting the hole match exactly.
Then, using a metal drill, make a hole in the pipe through a special clearance in the pipe and rubber gasket. After that, a pipe or a hose is screwed onto the opening of the pipe, with the help of which water will be supplied to the heater.
To connect the storage water heater to a steel water supply, a metal coupling is used with special threaded pipes, onto which a stopcock, hose or pipe section can be screwed
The most important point when connecting a water heater is the sealing of all connections. To seal the thread, FUM tape, linen thread or other similar sealant is used. There should be enough of this material, but not too much.
It is believed that if the seal protrudes slightly from under the thread, this will provide a sufficiently tight connection.
Working with polypropylene pipes
If the boiler is supposed to be connected to a polypropylene water supply, you should immediately stock up on stopcocks, tees and couplings intended for them.
In addition, you will need special equipment: a device for cutting such pipes, as well as a device for soldering them.
To connect the boiler to a polypropylene water supply, the following procedure is usually followed:
- Shut off the water in the riser (sometimes you need to contact the housing office for this).
- Using a cutter, make cuts on polypropylene pipes.
- Solder tees at the outlets.
- Connect the pipes designed to connect the boiler to the water supply.
- Install couplings and valves.
- Connect the boiler to the faucet using a hose.
If the water pipes are hidden in the wall, you will have to dismantle the finish in order to gain free access to them.
It happens that access to pipes laid in strobes is still significantly limited. In this case, a special split-type repair coupling can be used.
The polypropylene side of such a device is soldered to the tee, and the threaded part is connected to the water supply. After that, the removable part of the coupling is removed from the structure.
To connect the water supply from PVC pipes to the storage water heater, you can use a special adapter, part of which is soldered to the pipe, and a hose can be screwed onto the other part
Connection to structures made of metal-plastic
It is not as difficult to work with metal-plastic pipes as with polypropylene products. Such pipes are very rarely laid in strobes, but are connected with very convenient fittings.
To connect the boiler to such a water supply, you can use the following procedure:
- Shut off the water supply to the pipes in the house.
- In the place of installation of the branch pipe, make a cut using a special pipe cutter.
- Install a tee in the section.
- Attach a piece of a new metal-plastic pipe or hose to the branches of the tee, depending on the situation.
After that, all connections should be checked for tightness. To do this, water is supplied to the system and it is observed whether a leak appears.
If the tightness of the connection is insufficient, the gap should be sealed or the work should be done again.
Features of connecting a flow heater
Unlike a storage boiler, an instantaneous water heater is designed to heat the flow of water, and not its static volume.
Therefore, flow heaters are usually smaller in size, and it is much easier to incorporate them into the plumbing system.
A flow heater is usually placed closer to the place where hot water is used so that it does not have time to cool down while passing through the pipes.
The easiest way is to put such a device on a mixer, which has a shower outlet. To do this, remove the shower head and connect the heater hose to the freed part of the mixer, through which cold water should flow.
Now, instead of a shower, an additional source of hot water has appeared in the bathroom, which is connected if necessary. The device is easy to dismantle and install again if necessary.
But this is not always convenient, because using a shower with this installation method is somewhat difficult.
The figure shows options for connecting a flow heater to a water supply. You can use the heater in the kitchen or in the bathroom for a shower
Another possibility to include a flow heater in the system is through a branch designed for a washing machine.
First, a tee is placed on the pipe, which is sealed with FUM tape or flax.
Then a tap is installed that will allow you to open / close the water supplied to the heater, as well as regulate its flow.
Since the tap will have to be used frequently with this connection method, it is important to put it in a convenient place. After that, the structure is brought from the tap to the flow heater.
The most convenient way to do this is with a flexible hose, which is recommended to be fixed with special brackets. But you can also use pipes: metal, polypropylene, metal-plastic, etc.
For a comfortable stay in the house, when you want to constantly use hot water, and not depend on the repair schedule of monopolists that can turn off this water for an unknown number of days, many people think about purchasing a boiler.
Most often, the choice falls in the direction of a storage water heater. They come in different firms Ariston, Drazice, Baksi, etc., shapes and designs - flat, cylindrical or elongated. 
The installation of cold and hot water pipes may differ for them, however, they are all connected to the 220V network in the same way.
Many mistakenly believe that in order to connect the boiler, it is enough to plug the plug into the outlet and not worry about more. However, they forget that it is in the boiler that, in the event of a violation of the insulation, direct contact of electricity with a person can occur through water.
What you should pay special attention to when connecting the boiler:
- selection of the cross section of the supply cable (depending on the power of the boiler)
- selection of a circuit breaker for powering the electric network of the boiler
- socket selection
Choice of cable and machine
When repairing in new apartments, a separate wiring is usually carried out to the boiler directly from the shield. If you want to connect the boiler to an old common wiring that already has several outlets, be sure to make sure that it can withstand the power of the boiler.
In most cases, with a power of up to 3.5 kW, the wiring must be made with a 3-core copper cable VVGnG-Ls, with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2. 
A three-wire cable is required in order to ensure a permanent connection to ground.
Choose a two-pole boiler connection machine. The rated current of the machine is 16A (enough for a boiler power of up to 3.5 kW).
With a load of up to 2kW, a circuit breaker with a rated current of 10A is suitable. 
Power outlet or direct connection
If the boiler is connected from a socket, then the socket must have a degree of protection IP44. These are sockets for rooms with a high level of humidity. 
Remember that the socket in the bathroom can only be placed in certain places. And there are areas where it is strictly prohibited. You can read more about this in the article "". 
Although many are opposed to connecting electric heaters through a socket, this is the only way to ensure a visible break in the conductors (phase and zero) when turned off, as required by safety regulations.
And for those water heaters that initially come with plugs in the kit, if you cut them off, you can sometimes lose your warranty. So read the instructions.
If it says that this boiler can be connected in two ways
- directly
- and through the standard power cord
then you won't void your warranty.
In addition, if you need to dismantle the device from the wall, if you have a plug, you do not need to call an electrician to disconnect it from the power supply. Pulled the plug, remove, rearrange, do what you want.
Powerful boilers over 3.5 kW should only be connected directly through a circuit breaker, socket connection is not allowed here. 
The cable must be wound in such a way that there are no intersections with water pipes and places for future heater fasteners.
RCD installation
In the supply line of the boiler, the installation of an RCD is mandatory. Select it by current one order of magnitude higher than the current of the machine. 
Leakage current for RCD - 10mA or 30mA.
Why 10mA is better, and not more, can be understood from this table of the effect of current on the human body: 
A significant minus here is that at 10mA the protection can falsely work. Especially if your water heater has been hanging for more than a year and such condensate and moisture often form at the terminal connection points. 
How to check if this is a false alarm or is the heater itself faulty? To do this, use a multimeter.
Turn off the power supply or pull out the plug from the outlet and disconnect the standard ground from the titanium case. 
Then remove the terminal clamps from the heating element itself, and use probes to measure the resistance between the boiler body and the heating element.
If the heating element is in good condition, the readings on the multimeter screen should tend to infinity, that is, they should be something like this: 
In the event of a breakdown and damage to the heater, they will be either zero, but most often they can be several hundred or even kilo-ohm. In the photo below, just such an option is ~ 500kOhm. 
Very often, in many recent boiler models, an RCD with a leakage current of 15mA is already built into the cable to connect to the outlet. In this case, it may not be necessary to install an additional leakage current protection device in the shield. 
However, do not forget that such a built-in RCD will only protect against leakage if there is damage in the heater itself, but will not protect you in any way if there is a malfunction directly in the outlet or the supply wiring to it.
How to find such and other similar malfunctions and what it can lead to, can be found in the article ""
But what if you are not an expert in electricity and you yourself cannot or do not want to climb into the electrical panel in order to mount all the required protection devices there. But at the same time, you still need to protect yourself.
The easiest option is to buy an RCD outlet.
Plug it into an existing outlet in the bathroom, and then plug the plug from the boiler cord through it. 
Will the residual current device on the boiler work if you do not have grounding? Will. These two systems, when working together, are designed to complement each other.
In the event of a current leakage on a boiler without grounding, the protection device will work only when you directly touch the tank or water from it (with the heating elements turned on).
And if there is a grounding conductor, then the RCD will work immediately after the voltage is applied to the titanium, without waiting for your touch. That's the whole difference.
Wiring diagrams
Boiler connection diagram through a socket: 
Electrical diagram of the water heater:
Conditional diagram without a socket directly from the shield:
Errors during connection and operation
- installation of a socket directly under the boiler itself
It is absolutely impossible to do this. Sockets should be moved away from the heater and placed above the mixers. Do not forget about the safety valve and possible leaks.
The valve will operate as a last step of protection if the thermostat fails. By the way, the thermostat must be checked first of all, when the light on the panel is not lit, and the heaters are not heating. Look at the position of the button on the element, it can be "knocked out". 
- a common mistake when connecting the device directly to the outlet is the desire to turn off the device by pulling out the plug at a time when the water has not yet heated up and the heater is still working
If its power reaches 3.5 kW, then with such a break in the contacts, sparking may occur, with the formation of an arc. And since the bathroom is a room with high humidity, the consequences can be unpredictable.
Therefore, always, before pulling out the plug, turn off the load with standard control devices on the boiler itself. 
- you can not connect an empty boiler without water to the network
The heater, which is installed inside, requires water cooling. Without it, it will simply burn out and fail. Therefore, before each use, check the presence of water in the boiler. 
Plus, the magnesium anode, which also protects against rust, only works when the tank is full.
- connection of the water heater only through the RCD, or only through the machine
These two protection devices must duplicate each other. RCD protects against leakage current, and a simple machine from overload and short circuits.
If the budget allows, then instead of these two protective elements, you can install one differential machine, it will replace both devices.
