Furnace tiling can be done in any room, because lining is always done. Another question is how to do it right.
This is the subject of our article. After all, by doing the work with your own hands, you will reduce the cost of the entire structure.
After all, the price of the issue is not so low. A qualified specialist is not cheap.
Instructions will be provided for the correct execution of this work.

There are many such products in retail, but not all will fit. Let's look at the parameters of the material that fully meets our product.
To get started, you should look at photos and videos on this topic and choose the right design and color. Many advise taking a ceramic option for finishing furnaces.
Such a tile can attract the consumer in the following ways:

• Sufficiently high strength of the material;
• Withstands high temperatures and does not respond to temperature changes;
• This is a heat-intensive element that will help retain heat;
• The durability of the material is also excellent. It will last for many years;
• This product is environmentally friendly and will not harm your health.

Attention: When choosing a tile, give preference to materials that are made on the basis of clays. This will extend the life of the product and you can use such a tile at any temperature.

These parameters are fully consistent with two options:

• Clinker tiles for finishing the furnace, in which the extrusion method is used in the manufacture (such tiles can also be used for finishing the facade (see Tiles for finishing the facades of houses: types and method of finishing));
• The tile obtained by annealing is terracotta ceramics.

Surface tiling

This is a crucial stage of work, which is carried out according to certain rules and requires a sequence. And after all the installation conditions are met, the product will fully satisfy your needs and last a long time.

We prepare the surface

Furnace tiling begins with this work. The quality of fastening and durability will completely depend on it.
This work must be done slowly and carefully:

• We clean the oven from the previous coating. To do this, use a brush for metal;
• Now we need to deepen the seams, for this we use a hammer and a chisel. It is necessary to lower the seam by one cm.
  This will contribute to high-quality adhesion of surfaces;

• Finishing stoves with tiles will be more reliable if the connection is made through a mesh that must be applied to the surface. To do this, we make holes in the seams and hammer nails there.
  If the seam is strong enough, then holes should be made with a drill and self-tapping screws should be inserted there;
• Now we cover the plane with a primer. To do this, use a brush and carefully process the seam;
• We cling the grid to the surface, which should be stretched as much as possible.

Making a solution

Furnace tiling is done on a mortar, which can be made on a different basis. It is best to mount exactly on the one with which the masonry was carried out.
Therefore, we will give three types of solution, you will choose the one that is most suitable for the work.

clay mortar

This adhesive material is most suitable for the job, only it must be done in a certain sequence.
So:

• After acquiring clay, we need to determine its fat content. The percentage composition of the mixture will depend on this.
  To do this, we make about ten balls in which we use a different ratio of sand and clay. After that, dry them completely;

Attention: When making balls, do not forget to mark them and write down the applied proportion of the components. Otherwise you will just forget.

• After complete drying, they must be dropped onto a hard surface from a height of one meter. That ball that will not break or deform and will have the correct ratio;
• If you use solid fuel, coal, peat to operate the furnace, then you should also add about ten percent of fireclay powder to the mixture. With this composition, the solution is able to withstand higher temperatures;
• First, the clay should be filled with water and left for a day. It should become plastic and sour.
  After that, add sand in the right proportion and carefully knead with your hands, removing pebbles and kneading lumps. We bring the solution to the viscosity of thick sour cream.

cement mortar

By application, this solution is second on the list. This is also not a bad mounting option, but it should also be done correctly.
We need a container to perform the kneading and the paint tata is the best for this. It has a flat bottom and no stiffeners, and therefore here you can prepare the mixture with high quality.
So:

• First we fill in the sand and then add the cement. For the M300, a 3:1 ratio applies;
• Mix dry mixtures;
• Now add water and stir. After that, we need to make the mass completely homogeneous. To do this, you should use a drill with a nozzle, it will help to mix the components qualitatively.

Who does not dream of a real Russian stove or fireplace. This is a real decoration of any home, which brings warmth and comfort to it. But I want the heat source not to stand out from the general interior, but to be part of it. How to do it?

Everything is pretty simple. All problems are solved - do-it-yourself lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles. But this work is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. Each of the numerous types of material has its own characteristics. And there are also general rules that must be followed. We must not forget about the correct choice of glue (solution).

A little preface. Ceramic tiles include only a few of the most common types that have significant differences. Its history dates back hundreds of years, which indicates that it is an indispensable material for lining furnaces.

So, before proceeding with the direct selection of the materials necessary for work, the furnace area is measured. And also do not forget that the adjacent surfaces (walls, floor and ceiling), which will be exposed to temperature, must first of all be finished with refractory elements.

Tile adhesive is calculated separately. To do this, you can read the instructions that each manufacturer places on the package. And also take advantage of those found on the websites of sellers.

Additionally you will need:

• rags;
• roller and brush;
• mallet;
• tile cutter;
• screwdriver;
• level and rule;
• fine mesh;
• trowel and spatula.

I would like to give you a few tips:

1. Facing the oven with tiles does not go without damage to the material, especially when you work with your own hands. Even experienced craftsmen take into account the necessary margin of ten percent, which falls on the battle or other defects.
2. Before overlaying a heat source with a decorative layer, it is required to strengthen it. For this, a wire is often used, which is stretched, forming a cellular structure. But you can use a ready-made grid.
3. You can make your own tile mortar. It should be borne in mind that it is better to cook it in small portions.

Often, several main types of ceramic tiles are used:

• clinker tiles;
• porcelain stoneware;
• terracotta;
• tiles.

Important! Often the question is raised about the use of tiles. Some consider it one of the names of ceramic. This is not true. She is her variety. Yes, there is a place to be facing the stove with tiles. But this is not entirely correct. Previously, its use was due to the lack of proper choice. If, nevertheless, there is a desire to give preference to such material, then it is placed only on heat-resistant glue. And the material itself should not be glazed.

The tile must meet the following parameters:

• have a low level of moisture absorption - up to 2.5-3%;
• have heat resistance;
• not have a high expansion coefficient - no more than 7%;
• thickness from six millimeters;
• size up to 15 cm;
• be thermally conductive.

Before buying a tile, it is better to ask the seller to provide a certificate of conformity, which should indicate the operating temperatures.

The choice of adhesive composition

Finishing the stove with tiles requires the right choice of glue. Much of your success depends on this. The wrong approach will lead to sad consequences. Namely, the tile will begin to fall off, because the applied solution that does not have heat resistance will not be able to withstand the temperature and will collapse.

According to the method of use, they are distinguished:

1. Adhesive for continuous application. This composition is used to glue the main types of ceramic tiles. This is done with your own hands in this way: a layer is applied to the surface, no more than one centimeter, on which the material is already laid.
2. Spot solution. It is also used to cover the heat source with a decorative layer. But it is better to use it for finishing adjacent surfaces.

Glue for furnace work must have - heat resistance. This is the first condition.

Such a composition can be made by hand. The main thing is to follow the technology correctly. Take:

• four parts of sand;
• two parts of clay;
• two parts of cement (M400-500);
• one part of liquid glass;
• you can add fiberglass.

Additionally, after kneading, 1 kg of salt is added for every 10 kg of solution. Used for one hour. Thus, an excellent tile adhesive is obtained, which is easy to veneer on any surface.

Start of main works

When all the previous steps are completed, you can begin the main work.

Foundation preparation

All work is carried out quite quickly with their own hands:

• It does not matter which layer was before, it would be better to completely remove it.
• The cleaned base is prepared: dust and dirt are removed, the seams between the bricks are deepened.
• The surface is well primed. This will allow the plaster (putty) solution to hold better. The composition is chosen special - heat-resistant. It will be correct to apply several layers of primer. Each is allowed to dry. Such work is done by hand, using a roller and a brush for this.
• Stretch the net. This process is called reinforcement. Many people skip it. But it would be better to proceed from a specific situation. The grid is fixed in random order. The screws are deepened.
• If there are damage to the corners, then they will need to be strengthened. Metal pads (corner) are suitable for this.

On a note! Why is reinforcement carried out before gluing the tiles? This is done to strengthen the walls of the furnace. If they have undergone destruction, some kind of deformation that does not affect the performance of the heat source, then it is better not to ignore this event. In addition, this will allow you to better overlay the oven with your own hands.

Applying plaster

Before the selected material, its surfaces must be leveled. What solution to use for this? You can give preference to plaster, or you can choose putty. The main thing is that the mixture has heat-resistant properties and belongs to the starting compositions.

The alignment process itself is quite simple, it is easy to do it yourself.

1. The throwing method is often used. This is correct to do when the surface has significant irregularities. In any case, this is the fastest way.
2. Having thrown the mortar onto the reinforced surface, they begin to level it. Do it with smooth movements - from the bottom up. Each layer should not exceed one centimeter.
3. The oven can be heated a little.
4. A day later, further activities begin.

A few tips:

• Do not use a very thin or dry solution. Any lumps should be stirred. The fact is that air voids are formed in them, which will collapse when heated.
• Instead of mortar, you can use tile adhesive. This is done when a flat mesh is selected and there are no significant irregularities.

Now the most important stage begins, but it is also easy to do it yourself.

On a note! Before gluing the tiles, they need to overlay the entire oven (not on glue!). So, they are determined with their location and alignment.

1. Laying tiles starts from the bottom layer. It is from its quality that will depend on what the rest of the work will turn out to be.
2. A layer of glue is applied to the ceramics - no more than 5 mm. It is carefully distributed over the entire surface. But there is no need to rush to overlay the heat source with the first layer. Each product is pre-levelled.
3. The work is done quickly. The heated wall seizes the glue.
4. Next, lay layer by layer.
5. We must not forget about the distance between the tiles. For this, special corners (crosses) are used.
6. Dotted glue is applied as follows: from the wrong side, at a distance of two centimeters from the corners, the composition is applied. Further, according to the worked out scheme.

Working with seams

After you managed to overlay the oven, you need to wait at least a day, and then start grouting.

They do this in three ways:

• Use asbestos cord. They caulk the seams, and then fill it with the composition that was used for wall cladding.
• Apply heat-resistant sealant (silicone). For its application there is a special gun.
• Do not forget about heat-resistant glue. They can successfully close the seams, but not more than 3 mm.

Advice! In order not to stain the entire surface, when the seams are overwritten, unnecessary areas are sealed with masking tape.

If you have any questions, watch this video:

conclusions

Any cladding work, especially furnaces, requires certain skills. But, if other types of ceramic products can be glued on their own, then tiles need a proper understanding of the process itself. We must not forget that preliminary preparation and selection of glue is a big part of success.

Tiled. If the heating device has lost its original appearance, then such a lining may well replace the old layer of plaster. If the stove was whitewashed or painted, then after a while its appearance had to be updated. But if you properly lay the tile, then it will be ready to serve for several decades.

Finishing is carried out not only to make the stove look attractive, but also to preserve the layer of plaster, which acts as a protective barrier that does not allow the seams between the bricks to open. Among other things, the tile has a high heat capacity, therefore, when heated, it itself gives off heat to the room for a long time, preventing the stove from cooling down quickly.

Previously, tiles were laid only on the mortar, but today it is customary to use new methods that over time allow you to replace the facing material with a new one. However, before starting finishing work, it is necessary to carry out some measures that are no less important for the safe use of the furnace and the quality of the laying of materials.

Preparatory work

If you are faced with the question of how to overlay the oven with tiles, then you need to start the process with the preparation of tools, including:

• spatulas;
• tile cutter;
• pencil;
• metal ruler;
• building level;
• electric drill;
• glue container.

As for spatulas, you will need several varieties, among them:

• jagged;
• usual;
• angular;
• rubber.

The first will be needed for applying and distributing glue. It is recommended to purchase a tool with a tooth height of 6 mm. But a straight spatula, which is also needed, will be required to clean the surface. To decorate the corners, you should purchase an angle spatula, but you can close the seams between the tiles with a rubber tool.

Among other things, you should take care of the presence of an electric drill, which will have a nozzle in the form of a mixer. So you can knead the glue. In addition to the building level, you should purchase or find a plumb line. For marking, you may need a pencil or marker. When performing installation, it is best to have at hand:

• metal scissors;
• hammer;
• riveter.

For the manufacture of corners, you may need a rubber or wooden mallet. Perhaps you should take care of having a drill with a set of drill bits for metal.

Preparation of materials

Quite often, novice home craftsmen wonder how to tile. If you are also one of them, then you need to prepare the following materials:

• heat resistant glue;
• grout;
• primer;
• plinth.

As for the glue, it is necessary to choose the one that is intended for lining stoves and fireplaces. But if the tile will be installed dry, then you should prepare:

• sheet of galvanized steel;
• aluminum two-meter strips;
• steel corner.

As for the steel sheet, its thickness should be equal to the limit of 0.6 to 0.9 mm. Aluminum strips will have a width of 20 mm, they will be useful for the manufacture of the frame, where the guides will be installed.

Tile selection

The choice of tiles depends not only on the type of furnace, but also on the characteristics inherent in the material. Furnaces can be heating, heating and cooking, kitchen or made in the form of fireplaces. Each variety has a specific duration of the heating and cooling cycle.

Furnaces can also differ in heating temperature, so it is logical to assume that tiles should be selected taking into account these operating features. The cladding material must be resistant to high temperatures. In general, the stove can be overlaid with any tile, but not every variety of it is suitable for this purpose. For cladding, you can use heat-resistant (heat-resistant, refractory and heat-resistant) tiles. The coefficient of thermal expansion in this case will be equal to the limit from 7 to 8%.

If you are faced with the question of how to overlay the oven with tiles, then you must also take into account the strength of the material. Some varieties have a strength in the range of 300 N / m 2, which is much higher compared to concrete. Many consumers primarily pay attention to chemical inertness and environmental friendliness. When heated, the material should not emit harmful substances, so the chemical composition must be given increased attention.

Choosing a tile according to other characteristics

In order for the furnace lining to last for a long time, it is necessary to choose one that is resistant to scratches, wear and abrasion. Due to the fact that stove and stone tiles are installed for a long time, it is desirable that during this period they do not change their aesthetic qualities. In addition, the tile must be low-porous. The higher this figure, the lower the strength.

It is also necessary to take into account the moisture absorption coefficient, it should not exceed 3%. If the coefficient increases, then the porosity increases and the strength decreases. Tiles for stoves must also be fire resistant. It is good if the material has a certificate containing data on this.

The main types of tiles

Terracotta tiles are one of the types of material for facing heating equipment. The process of its production involves the use of a certain type of clay, as a result, it is possible to obtain a heat-resistant tile, which has proven itself as a facing material for fireplaces and stoves. Among the main features, high strength and the presence of terracotta color, which can be glazed or unglazed, should be highlighted.

Due to the fact that glazed terracotta tiles are more attractive, they are used most often. Due to the fact that the products have vapor permeability and a special structure, this finish is recommended for use when lining stoves in saunas and baths. Such a surface is easy to care for, it is heat-resistant, and during installation it shows excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

Tile "Majolica"

Another type of heat-resistant tile is "Majolica", which is a more advanced version of glazed terracotta tiles. Their characteristics are similar, the difference is only in appearance. Due to the fact that the Majolica pattern is applied in a thin layer, surface cracking is almost excluded. However, Majolica tiles are not recommended for use in or in the kitchen, as well as in rooms with high humidity, since the material has a porous structure.

Choice of clinker tiles

If you decide to use heat-resistant clinker tiles for stoves and fireplaces, then you need to take its choice seriously. Heat resistance is indicated by the letter "T". Before purchasing the material, you must make sure that it is fire resistant. But as for the preferred thickness, for a fireplace or stove, it should be 8 mm. Thinner cannot be used unless it is 6 mm, otherwise the material will experience constant heat and quickly break down.

For cladding, square-shaped tiles with a side of 120 mm are the best. If the dimensions are quite large, and the thickness remains the same, then the strength and rigidity of the masonry decreases. With an increase in thickness, problems arise with fastening, because the glue is not able to hold the impressive weight of the cladding. The color of the tile should vary slightly, unless you use special decorative techniques.

Before laying tiles on a brick oven, you must make sure that the products correspond to the exact dimensions. The point here is not even in the aesthetic side of the issue, but in the complexity of installation. After all, if the tiles will have different sizes, then it will not be possible to lay them tightly to each other, therefore, before purchasing the tile, it is necessary to check for compliance with the geometric parameters. To do this, two products are added together, which will allow you to check if there are gaps between the surfaces.

Preparatory work

Whatever method of finishing you choose, the surface of the furnace must first be prepared, for this you need to remove the old layer of plaster. In order to make these works easier to carry out, the walls are wetted several times with water. If the coating is clay, then it can be removed with a spatula. But if there is a cement-based mortar surface, you may have to act with a hammer and chisel. However, in the end, you should get a furnace wall completely freed from the old finish.

After you cope with the plaster, you need to walk on the surface with an iron brush or grinder, the latter of which must be supplemented with a special nozzle. The surface is sprayed with water from a spray gun, and the brick seams are cleaned, while it is necessary to go deep by 10 mm. This is required in order for the plaster to adhere to the wall.

If the masonry is new, then it should be dried well, and then cleaned of dust and mortar residues. As soon as these works are completed, the surface is primed, and the composition must fall to the full depth of the joints. Allow the substrate to dry before proceeding with laying stove tiles. The best preparation is to apply a primer in 2 layers. The walls are checked for their straightness, because in the end you should get a foundation without drops. The process is carried out using a plumb line and a building level.

If you notice differences, then the wall will have to be leveled. This can be done with a plaster mixture, which is intended for finishing the furnace. If the layer is thin, then it is applied with a wide spatula, leveling the solution. But if it is necessary to form a thick layer, the solution is applied by spraying, and then leveled by the rule.

Adhesive selection

Before you start lining, you need to pick up the glue. In order not to calculate the proportions, it is better to purchase a ready-made composition intended for finishing fireplaces and stoves. Some craftsmen prefer to use a cement-based mortar, adding salt or PVC to it. If you add a little salt, the substance will acquire the ability to accumulate moisture, preventing the clay, concrete and glue from drying out quickly.

Laying tiles

Laying tiles on the stove is carried out, starting from the bottom. At the first stage, it will be necessary to beat off the line of the first row. Marking is carried out using a colored cord. At first, the lining may slide down, so a perforated metal corner must be installed along the line. It is fixed with dowels, which must be removed from each other by a distance of 200 mm.

Before you start lining the Russian stove with ceramic tiles with your own hands, you need to install perforated corners on the corners of the heater, which will allow you to make a corner joint. After preparation, you can proceed to the preparation of glue. The solution is infused for 10 minutes, only after that you can proceed to the installation of the first row.

Using a notched trowel, an adhesive mass is applied to the wall, after which it is distributed over an area equal to 7 tiles. On the surface covered with glue, it is necessary to lay the cladding, and install crosses between the individual tiles. When laying Majolica tiles, a gap of 10 mm can be left between the individual elements. Instead of crosses, in this case, you can use chopped pieces of drywall.

Tiles must be pressed against the wall, checking their position with a building level. Adhesive protruding from the seams must be removed immediately. The seam space should remain empty, because later it should be filled with grout. It is necessary to lay the tiles as evenly as possible, but the position of the products can be corrected within another 15 minutes. After this time, the glue will set, and it will no longer be possible to move the lining.

After you have finished finishing the oven with tiles in the first four rows, you need to take a break for a couple of hours so that the glue sets well. After laying, you can complete, and then leave for a day or 36 hours. Before doing this, it is important to take care of cleaning the surface from adhesive residue. At this stage, it will not be difficult to wipe it off, but after it finally seizes, it will be very difficult to remove the stains.

Having laid the clinker tiles for stoves, you can proceed to grouting. For this, it is necessary to use heat-resistant compounds that can withstand about 200 ° C. The composition is selected by color, but you should not choose white, as with temperature changes it can acquire a dirty shade. Having closed the seams, you can proceed to wet cleaning. After some time, the mixture will be quite difficult to remove from the surface of the cladding and floor.

Conclusion

Now you know how to lay tiles on an old stove. To do this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of the heater, and then cover them with a primer. It is important to make sure that the base is as even as possible, otherwise it is leveled. As for the masonry mortar, the best option would be a heat-resistant ceramic tile adhesive, because you do not have to select the ingredients and proportions yourself. The manufacturer has already done all this for the master. Yes, and cement compositions have many disadvantages. For fire resistance, additives to the composition are required.

In this article we will tell you how to tile the oven, what varieties and tools exist. It seems to many that it is elementary to do this - I bought ceramics, diluted the mortar and glue, but everything is not so simple. In order for the finish to be of really high quality and serve for at least 20-25 years, it is necessary to follow a certain technology and choose the right material. Much also depends on the quality of the adhesive.

The modern market of facing materials offers a wide variety of products. Some owners of stoves or fireplaces prefer not to use the finish at all, leaving the brickwork and styling it like rustic. Such a decision cannot be called rational - over time, the brick begins to burst, smoke and soot penetrate the room through the cracks. Finishing should be, but what it will become - depends only on you.

What tiles can be used for cladding

Ceramic tiles are the most affordable way of finishing, but also very stable in operation. Even at the production stage, the tile is subjected to heat treatment - the pattern is baked at a temperature of 480-500C. Such material is resistant to temperature peaks, does not burst when exposed to water, and is easy to clean. Since the choice of adhesives and mixtures is also huge, it will not be difficult to tile the stove with your own hands.

Video 1 Wall tiling with ceramic tiles

So, what kind of tiles can be laid over the stove and fireplace, in addition to the standard one:

Unglazed with a characteristic roughness on the front side. It is made from refractory clay and fired at a temperature of 500C. The color is uniform throughout the lot, the natural color range varies from creamy to rich terracotta.

A more expensive and improved sample, which is made according to the principle similar to terracotta, but a pattern is applied to the front side and additionally fired. Not so long ago, it was extremely expensive to overlay a stove with majolica tiles.

Tile- a unique, primordially Slavic material for finishing furnaces. The technology for manufacturing such material has been developed since the first half of the 17th century, when the reliefs of monasteries and churches began to be decorated with wide tiles.

Today, baked clay is used for production, which is then glazed and baked at a temperature of 1150C. They can be embossed, smooth, glazed or raw. For convenient fastening, the reverse side is designed in the form of a box (rump).

If in the case of terracotta and majolica, you can simply cover the stove with ceramic tiles, then the tiles are laid out even at the construction stage.

Refractory tiles used from a mixture of chamotte powder, clay and appropriate mineral dyes. Can be used for exterior and interior decoration. It is characterized by high strength and resistance to damage.

Especially durable tile material, which is made from the composition of clay, sand, fine marble and granite waste. Fired at a temperature of 5500C, it is characterized by a monolithic structure and resistance to abrasion and damage. Used to imitate more expensive materials.

Porcelain stoneware and clinker are the most durable in the range of materials, but also the heaviest. For their laying, a separate technology and a special adhesive composition are used. Masonry always starts from the bottom and moves evenly up to the ceiling.

Since ceramic tiles are the most popular and inexpensive material for decorating furnaces (see video), it is worth starting with it.

Preparatory process

Necessary tools and materials:

• mallet (rubber mallet);
• tile cutter, grinder and string;
• drill;
• level and plumb;
• spatulas;
• metal brush;
• ceramic tile;
• mesh for reinforcement, fiberglass;
• heat-resistant primer;
• heat-resistant glue for stoves and fireplaces;
• nails with dowels;
• crosses for seams;
• white or colored grout.

It is forbidden to tile the oven immediately after its laying. It must take at least 5-6 months, including the heating season, for the oven to shrink technically. During the operation of the furnace, not only the solution is pressed, but also weak points “crawl out” - cracks, holes, etc., which can be repaired.

1. You clean the surface of the furnace from dust, dirt and cement residues - first you just wipe it with a dry cloth, then you clean it with a metal mesh or rub it with a grinder. Finally, the walls are washed from dust. Pay special attention to the seams between the bricks, they should be thoroughly cleaned.
2. Apply a primer mixture, be sure to refractory.
3. After the primer dries, level the walls with a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 3: 1. Recommended brand of cement M400. The wall must be absolutely flat, including the seams. You check each stack with a level or a plumb line. After drying, rub with a wooden float for better adhesion.

1. Fix the reinforcing mesh, and better, of course, fiberglass. This is a thinner and stronger analogue, which does not give additional weight, unlike the mesh, and also securely fastens the bases. Use nails to secure.

Step by step diagram and video

At this stage of work, the most important thing is not to rush and check each tile with a level - any distortion in the future will come out sideways, both literally and figuratively.

Preparation of the adhesive solution

We note right away that the modern arsenal of refractory adhesives is too large to do it yourself, but real craftsmen lay tiles exclusively on cement-sand mortar in the proportion of 3 parts of M400 cement and 1 part of sand. For a good bond, you should add ordinary rock salt.

Laying out the first row

This is the most important, load-bearing row. Apply glue (read - solution) with a notched trowel on a 3-4 mm thick tile, hold for a few seconds and apply to the base. Press lightly, fix, check the level for perfect evenness and move on to another tile. Now we use crosses - put 2 on the edge and 1 on the intersection. By the same principle, bring the row to the end around the entire perimeter.

Be sure to check each tile with a building level - horizontally and vertically. Correcting the wrong masonry will already be almost impossible - you will have to knock down and start over.

Lay out all other rows

Also, alternately apply glue / solution to each, hold for 3-4 seconds, press, check, put crosses. If the tile does not fit into the row completely, mark where to cut and remove the unnecessary part with a tile cutter. Do not throw away the leftovers, they can come in handy.

Photo 2 Laying tiles on the stove

To do this, use a special composition or adhesive/solution residues. The composition, of course, is much more preferable, because you can pick up a certain color and make it more contrasting. The seams are rubbed a day after the completion of the masonry work. First, remove all the crosses, and then apply the grout with a soft rubber spatula. Do this very carefully and so that there is no free space left.

Remove excess grout immediately after application. If it has time to dry, it will have to be chipped, which may cause cracks.

Final

After you have rubbed all the seams, damp, but not wet, go over the entire tile with a cloth. Remove the remnants, but do not touch the actual seams, so as not to remove the still fresh solution. After an hour and a half, depending on the temperature in the room, do the same, but with a damp sponge and carefully treat the surface near the seams. After another 2 hours, wash the entire tile so that there is no white coating left on it.

You can heat the stove only after 7-10 days and not at full power.

Separately, we should talk about how to overlay tiles near the stove so that it is a single ensemble and additional fire protection.

The principle of work is similar to laying ceramics. You also completely clean the surface in front of the oven, treat it with an antiseptic, primer, apply a cement-sand mortar and lay out the tiles. Fix each with a mallet and be sure to check the level. This type of work is carried out last.

Features of ceramic tiles

Many, along with how to properly tile the stove, are interested in working with tiles. The main process corresponds to ceramics, but certain nuances are distinguished, namely:

1. Unlike analogues, the tiles are first laid out on the floor in front of the stove, then the front part follows in order, then the end, and only at the very end - the corners.
2. Since tiles, as well as majolica, most often come with a certain pattern, before starting laying, they should be laid out on the floor or other work surface and numbered. Further work goes in order.
3. It is best to cut along the string - mark the place of the cut, make small cuts on both sides and saw it. In this case, there will be practically no chips.
4. Even if the base is laid out on the mortar, heat-resistant silicone should be used to fix the corners. The corners of the oven are the critical area where the main expansion enters, so the adhesive backing must be slightly movable.

That's all we wanted to tell. Now you know how to tile a stove or fireplace with your own hands, what materials to use and in what sequence. If you follow the technology and take your time, in just a few days your design will change beyond recognition.

Tiled stoves - photo

How to overlay the stove with different tiles and on which solution with your own hands - video:

A country cottage, a private house, a summer residence will only benefit from the installation of a beautiful stove or fireplace. And what can we say about how the room will be transformed from the lining of the old stove. Of course, today the stove plays a more decorative role in the interior of the room than a functional one, but the idea of ​​a hearth, embodied in a modern house, will never lose its relevance.

Facing the furnace, in the language of professionals, is the application of a finishing coating on the design of the heater. The most popular solution is to finish the stove with tiles. This service is provided by master bakers. But there are no prerequisites for not doing the lining of the furnace with your own hands. Especially when there is a step-by-step instruction with a detailed description, photos, drawings and diagrams that are understandable even to a beginner.

How to tile the oven with tiles correctly and durable

The order of work is carried out in a certain sequence, do not neglect the intermediate steps.

1. Features of tiling different types of stoves

First of all, not all stoves are suitable for cladding, and some types will have to be tinkered with. There are three types of ovens:

Metal ovens

When tiling a metal surface, it must be understood that metal and tile have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Thus, the stove and the tiles on it will heat up and cool down at different speeds. This will invariably cause the decorative tile to peel off or even crack. But, in this case, facing a metal furnace with tiles is possible. Professionals recommend the device of a movable ligament between the tile and the surface of the oven on kleimers, this technology will help to avoid cracking;

Double-circuit heating stoves made of bricks

Ideal if you plan to tile a brick oven. This is due to the fact that the furnace has two circuits: internal (furnace and vaults) and external. The outer circuit, which is in contact with the cladding, heats up much less than the inner one, and therefore the facing tile is best kept on such a stove. By the way, the absence of local overheating can be considered an additional advantage of this furnace design. That allows you to clad a fireplace or stove with one material and using one type of mortar for its fastening;

Single-circuit brick ovens

Often they are installed in baths, for which the stoves are called "bath stoves". The most problematic option. After all, there is only one circuit here, which means that the surface warms up more than in a double-circuit furnace. The craftsmen who perform the lining of a single-circuit furnace must have some experience in order to choose the right tile for lining and the mortar that will hold it. Areas of local overheating deserve special attention.

Among other things, the stove installed in the bath is exposed to changes in temperature and humidity. Facing a sauna stove with tiles requires a more careful selection of materials. For it, it is recommended to use porcelain stoneware, as the least porous material that can withstand the highest temperatures. It is also possible to line the stove with terracotta tiles, but its thickness must be at least 8 mm, and the distance between adjacent tiles must be at least 10 mm.

Note. Knowing what type of oven does not yet make it possible to get started. It is also necessary to take into account what type of fuel the furnace is heated. Different fuels have different combustion temperatures. For example, when using solid fuel, the cladding material must withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, wood (firewood) will expand the choice of facing tiles. burns at temperatures up to 800 degrees.

2. Measurement of the furnace and calculation of tiles

After the dimensions of the furnace have been measured, the type of material has been determined, the exact dimensions of one tile, the presence of decorative elements and their parameters have been clarified, you can begin to calculate how many tiles are needed to cover the stove.

To do this, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​​​the furnace, including vertical and horizontal surfaces. It should be remembered that laying tiles on the stove provides for an inter-joint gap (the distance between the tiles), which ranges from 2 to 10 mm. This area must be subtracted.

Note. The more complex the tile laying pattern, the more material is used for trimming. However, the smaller the tile, the less material goes to waste.

Users are advised to make an insurance stock in the amount of 5% of the amount received. After all, the tile can fall off or burst during the operation of the furnace. Moreover, if there are several types of decorative elements, then it is necessary that there be at least two pieces of each of them. This increases the cost of tiling the stove, but eliminates the thought of how to replace the missing cladding element.

Note. Especially accurate calculation must be carried out for.

Methods for laying tiles on the stove

The second aspect that affects the volume of materials purchased is the way the tiles are laid when lining the stove (rice).

in straight rows (seam to seam, seam to seam) you can lay square or rectangular tiles. The application of this method is possible only when the tiles have the same geometric dimensions. It is suitable for laying out panels or patterns on the surface of the oven. In this case, it is desirable that the layout begin and end with whole tiles. It is this nuance that will not allow the method to take a leading position;

displacement (in dressing), the most popular installation method, because when using it, the cut pieces of the tile are not conspicuous. You can also vary the thickness of the vertical seam. The method is suitable for those who are going to make the lining of the furnace with tiles with their own hands; diagonal line allows you to make an unusual drawing. But it is rarely used due to difficulties with surface marking and a significant amount of waste; styling "chaos" allows you to implement a variety of solutions. Most often used for laying tiles made of natural materials. Using the random layout method forces the craftsmen to more carefully calculate the material.

A variety of facing tiles allows you to create your own ways of laying it, combining materials and creating unique patterns.

3. The choice of tiles and tools for lining the stove

A detailed explanation of how to tile a stove is possible only when there is an understanding of what material is in question.

For a long time, tiles remained the most accessible for cladding. Many today consider it as a full-fledged alternative. But, despite the cheapness of the material, lining the stove with tiles is fraught with pitfalls. After all, it must satisfy certain conditions (refractory, heat-resistant, heat-resistant).

Facing the furnace with ceramic tiles is possible if the material meets the requirements:

• shape and size. Masters say that the smaller the tile, the less likely it is to peel and crack. For example, tiles with a size of 100x100 are more mobile due to seams than tiles with larger sizes. The form leaves an imprint on the way of laying. The presence of a pattern that needs to be selected also complicates the calculation and calculation;

• matching shades of tiles;

• technical properties: strength, fire resistance, fine porosity of the structure, moisture absorption, coefficient of thermal expansion, resistance to mechanical damage;

• environmental safety, confirmed by a certificate.

Today, among the materials that meet the listed conditions, we can distinguish:

• terracotta tiles (terracotta);
• majolica;
• clinker tiles;
• porcelain tile.

Advice. A beautiful layout of tiles will provide the use of friezes, borders, inserts, panels.

In addition to tiles, for facing you need:

1. crosses or patterns. To provide a seam with a thickness of 10 mm. users advise using pieces of plasterboard ceiling. Their advantage is easy dismantling;
2. heat-resistant grout;
3. metal mounting mesh;
4. bierbach hardware or nails / self-tapping screws and washers;
5. rubber mallet;
6. a chisel or perforator to remove the old coating from the tile;
7. putty knife. There are three types to be prepared. Conventional spatula for removing the coating and applying a leveling layer of putty or glue. Serrated - for applying mortar to the tile. As well as a special spatula for jointing (grouting).
8. tile cutter. Allows to minimize material consumption from chips on the front surface;
9. level and plumb;
10. soap solution;
11. adhesive solution;
12. primer.

Adhesive and mortar for oven tiles

The quality of adhesion of the tile and the surface of the furnace depends on which mortar is placed on the stove. In view of the purpose, the adhesive solution must be heat-resistant, refractory, heat-resistant.

Clay mortar for the furnace

How to cook: clay, sand and water are kneaded in certain proportions, which depend on the type of clay:

• for oily clay, the ratio will be 1 part clay, 4 parts sand, 1 part water. The fat content of clay can be determined in a laboratory or in a folk way - sand is not felt in it, and a ball rolled out of it cracks when it dries;
• for normal - 1:3:1
• for skinny - 1:2.5:1

Cement mortar for kiln

How to prepare: cement, sand are mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 and brought to the desired consistency with water. In this case, the cement must be grade M 400 or higher. To improve the properties of the solution, it is recommended to add PVA, asbestos to it. The stove-makers are advised to add 1 kg of salt. on a bucket of mixture;

Dry mix mortar or special adhesives (cement, dispersion, epoxy)

They are ready-to-use mixtures intended for a certain type of tile. The good thing is that the proportions in them are carefully calibrated, and in addition, various plasticizers are added that improve the properties of the adhesive solution. Adhesives such as SCANMIX Skanfixsuper (Finland), Plitonit-SuperKamin (Russia-Germany) have proved themselves well. Of the budget options: SILTEK T-84 (Ukraine), Pechnik (Belarus) and Plitonit W (Russia).

Ready-made adhesive solution - adhesive mastic

When choosing this type of glue, you need to pay attention to the marking. It should be intended for lining stoves and fireplaces. Good user reviews on NEOMID SUPERCONTACT (Russia), Terracotta (Russia), Parade-77 (Belarus). But, in general, the quality of adhesion of the mastic to the surface leaves much to be desired.

In any case, the solution must meet the requirements for heat resistance and coefficient of thermal expansion. Ideally, laying tiles on the stove should be done in the same mortar as leveling its surface.

All professionals and users agree that saving on materials is not worth it.

4. Laying tiles - drawing, cutting

Laying tiles on the stove is carried out on the basis of a prepared drawing or sketch. Professionals in this case provide a specification on the basis of which the material is purchased. For beginners, a visual image and the actual layout of the desired composition will greatly facilitate the process of calculating, buying and styling.

Note. The layout is made for all walls of the furnace, taking into account the size of the seams.

The drawing of the furnace with facing material has the form shown in the figure.

3D visualization will help evaluate the appearance of the future cladding.

Laying tiles - simplifies the installation process, as it allows you to lay the tiles on the stove in the exact sequence. In addition, it allows you to select tiles according to the pattern, shape, shade. The size of the tile is adjusted before laying, taking into account the seams. For trimming, products with chips and defects are used.

Note. To avoid laying tiles with small trimmings, increasing the distance between the seams will help.

Advice. The most massive (large) tile is laid on the lower rows. Also on the bottom is a tile of greater thickness. Otherwise, it will be impossible to make a flat surface.

The finished oven after lining will look like this

5. Preparing the oven for tiling

High-quality installation and long life of the furnace lining is possible only when laying tiles on a prepared base.

The need for cladding can be caused by two reasons, and the scope of work for each will be different. However, the overall goal is the same - to give the furnace the correct geometric shapes, in which all surfaces are even, and the angles correspond to 90 °.

Note. Besides the fact that leveling increases the speed of work, it allows you to reduce the consumption of expensive adhesive for laying tiles on the stove.

Option 1: lining a new (freshly built) furnace

Even a structure erected in accordance with all building codes will need preparation. In this case, it comes down to the fact that the surface of the base is cleaned of dust, primed, equipped with a grid and markings. These activities will be discussed in more detail below.

Note. It is possible to start lining a new furnace only after a month of operation. During this time, it will shrink and show hidden defects.

Option 2: lining an old (operating) stove

This option is much more complicated than the previous one, since it involves the implementation of a larger number of rough work. Therefore, consider the sequence in more detail.

5.1 Dismantling the old coating

Furnaces installed in the house, as a rule, already have some kind of lining. Often this is plastering followed by whitewashing or tiling. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a new coating, it is necessary to remove the old one.

Dismantling (removal) of plaster from the surface of the furnace

Plaster does not last long on a hot oven. From high temperature, cracks appear on it or the surface layer moves away from the base. In any case, before proceeding with the lining, you need to get rid of the decorative coating (remove, clean).

How to remove old plaster from the stove

In practice, two methods are used to remove plaster from the surface:

Force method. It is used if most of the plaster adheres well to the walls of the furnace. Its use involves knocking down plaster with a perforator percussion nozzle. This method is fast, but the result is a lot of dust and there is a possibility of damage to the brickwork.

The use of a grinder can simplify the work. Using a diamond disc, cuts are made on the surface of the furnace. Their depth should be equal to the thickness of the plaster layer. There is nothing critical if the disk goes 10-15 mm into the thickness of the masonry. Further, the removal of the plaster continues with a perforator, hammer or chisel. If removal is still difficult, the craftsmen advise heating the area with a building hair dryer and continuing to work.

Note. Periodically wetting the surface with water will prevent or reduce the amount of dust.

gradual cleaning. The method is slower and involves impregnating the plaster with water and then scraping it off with a spatula.

Dismantling (removal) of paint from the surface of the furnace

Painting a stove is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate a stove. But, the painted surface under the influence of temperature will peel off and can harm human health (release of harmful substances).

How to remove old paint from a brick oven

Removing paint from a brick surface is not so easy. A thin layer is removed with a metal brush. A good help for cleaning paint is the use of a building hair dryer. A thicker layer sometimes leaves on its own, and where this did not happen and the adhesion to the surface is strong, notches should be made, for example, with a hatchet.

Note. Special paint stripping solutions have a pungent odor that takes a long time to disappear, and are also expensive, so users are not advised to use them.

Dismantling (removal) of old tiles from the stove

If the tiles are peeled off or you want to renew the stove lining, it becomes necessary to knock the tiles off the stove.

How to remove old tiles from the surface of the furnace

It is recommended to carry out dismantling work from top to bottom. After removing the last row, go down to the next one. The tile is removed using a chisel that catches on the edge of the tile. In this way, the tile is removed without damage. If such a maneuver fails, the tile must be broken. Broken tiles are easier to remove.

Don't be surprised if a brick breaks off when you remove a tile. In any case, cleaning a fireplace or stove does not end with the removal of the old coating.

Attention! The removal of the old tiles is carried out strictly in goggles, because. in the process of work, a large number of sharp fragments scatter.

5.2 Cleaning the surface of the oven walls

After removing the topcoat, the entire surface of the stove must be thoroughly cleaned of the smallest residues of the solution. Ideal cleaning of brick walls is carried out by using a metal brush.

5.3 Deepening joints between bricks

In order for subsequent layers of the mortar to better adhere to the base, care must be taken to remove the mortar and increase the depth of the brickwork joints. To do this, with the help of a chisel, grinder or spatula, the solution is removed from the inter-seam spaces. Depth of cleaning 5-10 mm.

Upon completion of the work, the surface is once again cleaned of dust and residues of the solution with a brush.

5.4 Leveling the oven walls for tiles

To prevent the tiles from peeling off the base, a metal mesh must be installed on the surface of the furnace.

For work, you will need a mounting grid with cells of 50x50 mm and a wire diameter of up to 1 mm. To fix the mesh, you can use a ceiling dowel with a hat (beerbach).

Or you can just put washers or pieces of galvanizing on the nails. The main thing is that the hat securely holds the net. Hardware is installed only in the seams. At the same time, the nail is hammered, and a hole needs to be drilled under the self-tapping screw. Grid fastening step 500 mm.

The mesh on the surface is installed with tension. Next, the surface of the walls is leveled with plaster. To do this, you can use glue, on which the facing tiles will be mounted or a special solution (clay, cement, sand) in a ratio of 3: 1: 0.2 parts.

If the surface that needs leveling has depressions up to 10 mm, then the mortar must be applied in two approaches. The maximum allowable layer thickness is specified by the manufacturer. In practice, it is better not to make a layer thicker than 5 mm, this increases the time and reduces the uniformity of its solidification. In this case, the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

Advice. Starting to level the walls, the craftsmen advise heating the stove. The solution must be applied at a surface temperature of 30-35°C.

An alternative to a wall alignment grid:

• installation of hardware with hats and pulling ordinary wire between them;

• the use of stretched burlap, previously aged in a clay solution. When laying burlap, it is important to avoid wrinkles and air pockets.

Note. If the surface of the stove is even, you can eliminate the stage of plastering, and lay the tiles directly on top of the metal mesh.

5.5 Priming the oven walls

A heat-resistant primer applied with a brush will improve the adhesion of the mortar to the surface. When choosing a primer for stoves and fireplaces, it is better to give preference to deep-penetrating compositions. When the primer is completely dry, you can pre-mark the surface.

Advice. You can reduce the consumption of the primer without changing the quality of the application if you first walk along the surface of the wall with a slightly damp sponge.

5.6 Pre-marking before laying tiles

The surface on which the markup is applied is considered to be fully prepared for facing. It involves the installation of beacons that allow you to navigate when performing cladding work.

Marking is applied using a plumb line and level. It is convenient to designate a horizontal line using a cord. A more technological approach is the use of a laser level.

You should be aware that even a perfectly prepared surface may not save the oven from cracking. Cracks may be caused by:

• excessive overheating;

• incorrectly executed bunch of bricks during the construction of the furnace;

• different thickness of the interbrick seam.

High-quality preparation of the base of the furnace surface will avoid its deformation and firmly hold the correctly laid facing tiles.

5.7 Preparing the adhesive

The mortar for laying tiles is prepared in small portions in 10-15 minutes. before starting work. Moreover, master stove-makers do not use any devices for kneading, the work is done by hand.

6. Facing the oven with tiles with your own hands

The technology of tiling furnaces with tiles provides for the choice of laying method, and the progress of the work will also differ accordingly. At the same time, in any case, laying is carried out from the bottom up and on a heated oven (at least up to 30 °).

6.1 Furnace lining with tiles in straight rows or offset

Installing the first row. Furnace lining with clinker, terracotta tiles or porcelain stoneware starts from the corner of the furnace. First, the corner elements are installed.

It is worth noting that if the cladding work is carried out before the floor is laid, a gap must be left. In this case, the support for the first row will not be the floor, but a rail nailed to the surface of the furnace. The support rail must only be attached to the oven, as the floor may deviate from the horizontal. To display the horizontal, you need to mark the upper border of the first row and lay the tiles with cutting from the side of the floor. With this approach, subsequent rows will be laid out in accordance with the level.

Note. A technological gap of 5-10 mm is left between the floor and the tile. Its presence will compensate for the expansion of the material when heated.

Please note that the facing of the stove with majolica starts from the corner and continues along the laying. If a whole strip hits the corner, great. If trimming is required, then work must begin from the second row. Pieces of tiles are installed last. It looks more beautiful if the whole tiles are located in the corners, and the cut fragments are hidden at the junction with the wall.

How to apply adhesive to tiles

The adhesive composition is applied in two ways:

• with a notched trowel. This method is suitable for flat surfaces. Then the glue spreads evenly on the surface of the tile and air pockets are eliminated;

Note. Air pockets or bags are dangerous because the air in them heats up faster than the tile or adhesive and expands. As a result, peeling of the tile is possible.

• with the help of a master. The method is used when the surface has deviations along the plane. In this case, the adhesive is applied to the corner of the tile, which is pressed against the surface in a circular motion. Glue fills all the bumps, and its excess goes beyond the edges of the tile. If you're having trouble getting the tile back in place, you can lightly hit it with a rubber mallet.

The thickness of the adhesive application is indicated by the manufacturer and is 2-7 mm. To even out the unevenness, it is allowed to apply glue up to 10 mm thick, however, after laying the tiles, work must be stopped so that the glue can dry evenly.

1. Before applying glue to porcelain stoneware, it must be wetted. To do this, brush over the surface with a brush or moisten in water. In no case should the tile be completely immersed in water.
2. The heavier the tile, the thicker the adhesive layer should be and the greater the distance between adjacent tiles.
3. It is possible to level the tile on the surface within 10-15 minutes. after laying. If you didn’t have time in time, you need to remove the tile, clean it and the surface from glue, and only then continue work.

The second row is laid after the first is completely laid. Work also starts from the corner. Crosses, templates or pieces of other materials that have the same thickness will help to ensure an even gap between the tiles.

Joint width between tiles (thickness)

At the seams between rows of tiles, you need to stop separately. The width of the joint depends on the type of tile, its thickness and weight. And their absence leads to the fact that the tile has nowhere to expand and it bursts. In order for the grout mixture to lay beautifully in the future, the seams, during the laying of the tiles, must not be completely filled, and the excess mixture should be removed with a spatula.

Masters focus on the fact that laying more than three rows in one approach is not worth it. In order for the glue to grab well, it is better to take a break for several hours. The drying time depends on the type of adhesive and manufacturer's recommendations.

In addition, after laying each row of tiles, the horizontal is checked. When a defect is found, there is time to fix it.

6.2 Tiling the stove diagonally

With this laying method, the first row is most often laid straight. This will align the cladding with the floor. Further, the calculation is carried out in one of the following ways:

• triangles are laid out, wide side down. The upper corners of the tile serve as a guide when checking the level;

• laying goes diagonally, then the mooring cord (marking) is pulled at an angle of 45 °.

The penultimate row is similar to the second. The last - the first, which is also usually laid out in a straight line.

Note. In the process of facing, a certain area in front of the stove is often laid out with tiles. This technique allows you to protect the floor covering from sparks and deformation from the heat of the furnace from below.

Facing work ends with cleaning the seams (deepening for better grouting) and washing the lined surface of the furnace. After the time required for the adhesive to fully harden, you can start grouting.

Advice. It is better to stop work for 5-7 days. During this period, the risk of tiles shifting is minimized.

7. Jointing of tile joints (grouting)

Grouting of joints between tiles is carried out with a special mixture or clay-sand mortar with the addition of coloring pigments. The work is done with a rubber spatula. It is suitable for tiles, because. allows you to fill small seams. Or with a construction gun, if the stove was lined with porcelain stoneware, terracotta or clinker tiles.

Types of grouts for tiles and their comparative analysis are presented in the table (analysis of grouts for clinker tiles)

After applying the grout, the surface is wiped with a damp sponge. This technique will remove the remnants of the mixture. Be careful not to apply too much pressure to the sponge, otherwise the seam may be damaged.

Advice. Users suggest hand forming a concave seam. It can be done with your fingers (with a sufficient seam width) or with improvised means, for example, a flexible tube or a toothbrush handle.

The final cleaning of the seam on tiles or majolica is carried out after the grout has dried (after 1-2 hours). Visually, this can be seen by the fact that the tile will become lighter. Cleaning is carried out with a flannel cloth moistened (soaked) in a solution of a cement-trowel film remover.

The oven tiling process is complete. Now it remains to wait 3-4 weeks before trying the stove in operation.

Furnace cladding with terracotta tiles - video

Conclusion

Thus, a little diligence and good instructions for laying tiles on the stove with your own hands will help to achieve the desired result.