Scheme of connecting the storage water heater to the water supply. How to make a competent connection of the boiler to the water supply with your own hands

In this article, we will take a closer look at boiler wiring diagram and how to connect the boiler to electricity.

First, let's look at a typical electrical circuit of a boiler - an electric water heater, what main components it consists of, why they are needed and how they interact with each other. Then we will consider how to connect the boiler to electricity, i.e. to the electrical network.

Electrical diagram of the boiler.

Let's look at the general electrical circuit of the boiler, when a separate knob for adjusting the water heating temperature is placed on the front panel of the tank, and the temperature controller and thermostat (thermal switch) are made separately.

The electrical circuit of the boiler consists of the following components:

- thermostat;

- indicator lamp.

The supply voltage through the zero N (blue) and phase L (red) wires is supplied to the boiler, in our circuit to the input terminals of the thermostat. The neutral protective conductor PE is connected to the body of the water heater tank using a screw.

From the output terminals of the thermostat, zero is connected to the first contact of the heating element, and the phase is connected to the input connector of the thermostat. The output connector of the thermostat is connected to the second contact of the heating element. The indicator light is connected to the output zero terminal of the thermostat and to the output connector of the thermostat (phase).

IMPORTANT!

Before connecting the boiler to the electrical network, it is necessary to fill its tank with water. Otherwise, the heating element will overheat and fail.

So, we fill the water heater with water, set the desired water heating temperature with the temperature control knob, turn on the electrical protection device in the electrical panel, thereby supplying voltage to the boiler's electrical circuit.

Since the water is cold, the thermostat circuit is closed, the indicator light is on, signaling the heating of the water, a current passes through and the water in the tank heats up.

When the set temperature is reached, which is measured by the temperature sensor of the thermostat, the thermostat breaks the power supply circuit of the heating element, the indicator light goes out, the water starts to cool.

When the water temperature in the tank drops below a certain value, the heater's power supply circuit closes and heating starts again. This is the process of maintaining a constant temperature of the water in the tank.

The thermostat acts as a fuse. If for some reason the temperature of the water in the boiler exceeds the permissible value, the thermostat breaks the circuit of the neutral and phase wires, turning off the power from the heating element and thereby preventing overheating of the water in the boiler.

In some models of water heaters, the thermostat and thermostat are combined in one housing, while the principle of operation of the circuit does not change.

How to connect the boiler to the mains supply.

Now let's look at how to connect an electric water heater to?

In the diagram above, the boiler is connected to the electrical network through an RCD and a circuit breaker installed in series with it.

The RCD protects against possible electric shock in the event of current leakage due to a breakdown on the case or damage to the insulation, and the circuit breaker protects the circuit from possible overload or short circuit.

In this scheme, the cable from the electrical panel is directly connected to the input terminals of the boiler, i.e. the protective cover is removed, the power cable is connected, connected to the appropriate terminals and closed back with the protective cover.

For details on which RCD to choose, with what parameters, which circuit breaker, what rating and characteristics, how to correlate the parameters of the machine with the RCD parameters, how to calculate the required cable cross-section, see.

The diagram below shows the option of connecting the water heater through an electrical outlet.

It is connected to the cable coming from the electrical panel, and a cord with a plug from the boiler is already connected to this outlet.

I want to note that connecting directly to the boiler terminals, without using an intermediate outlet (as in the first diagram) is more reliable and preferable.

Well, instead of linking RCD+circuit breaker you can use difavtomat.

In this circuit, the phase and zero from are connected directly to the input terminals of the boiler. In this case, zeros before and after the difautomaton should not have common connections.

In this scheme, the connection through the outlet can also be used. The socket is installed in line after the difavtomat, and a plug with a cord from the boiler is included in it.

In the circuit for connecting the boiler to the electrical supply network, it is desirable to use a separate line made with a cable of the required cross section with the installation of a separate electrical protection device.

See the video for more details Boiler connection diagram:

Useful materials

Dacha has long ceased to be a place for a person to grow vegetables and fruits. More and more people seek to relax outside the city in summer cottages.

Some move to the dacha permanently or for the spring-summer period. And, of course, everyone wants to relax and live in the country in comfortable conditions, without depriving themselves of the usual amenities that are in a comfortable apartment. And the lack of hot water can, and at all, spoil the whole rest.

The problem with hot water in the country is quite easy to solve - for this you need to install a water heater. In stores you can find a lot of devices that heat water from the electrical network. You can read more about the types of water heaters in the article.

In order for the heater to work for a long time and efficiently, it must be properly connected to the network and water supply. The next article will tell you how to do this.

Choosing a place to install a water heater

Before installing a water heater, you need to decide where to do it. Here are a few factors to consider when choosing a location:

The load-bearing wall must be strong and resistant. Even if the water heater is small in volume, its weight is quite large. Therefore, it is necessary to take care, if necessary, of strengthening the wall or additional support.
water heater dimensions. It is necessary to measure in advance the place where it is planned to install the water heater, so as not to miscalculate with the dimensions.
if space permits, you can pre-allocate one room for the boiler room.
What type of water heater will be installed. A gas water heater requires certain communications. For example, an air outlet.

When installing, it should also be remembered that the sockets into which the heater will be turned on must be isolated from water ingress.

Water heater connection diagrams

Not all summer cottages have water pipes. Many summer residents do not have the opportunity to bring water supply to the dacha. What should they do in this case?

There is a way out of this situation. Many owners of country houses, deprived of centralized water supply, use water storage tanks. Most often, these containers are installed on roofs. Owners of such storage tanks also have the opportunity to use water heaters.

Thus, depending on the type of water supply, there may be several schemes for connecting a water heater.

To the water container

The main rule for connecting a water heater to a water tank is that the distance between them must be more than 2 meters.

If the distance between the tank and the boiler is less than 2 meters, a slightly different water heater connection scheme will be applied.

Another nuance that should be taken into account when connecting the boiler is that the pressure must be less than 6 bar. In the case when the pressure is greater, it is necessary to install a reducer that will reduce the pressure. The gearbox is placed in front of the water heater. This must be done, as the gearbox will protect the water heater from damage.

To the water supply

Connecting the boiler to the water supply is a simple task. To do this, you need to have at least some idea of how the plumbing system works.

Before connecting the boiler to the water supply, you need to hang it on the wall. To do this, you need strong large fasteners. They rarely come with water heaters, so you need to take care of the fasteners in advance.

After you have hung the water heater on the wall, you can start connecting it to the water supply. The diagram below shows how to connect the heater.

If the water leaves much to be desired, you need to install a filter in front of the heater. This will extend its service life.

In the absence of grounding, a water heater cannot be installed.

What is required to connect?

In order to connect the water heater to the water supply system, you will need to stock up on a set of necessary tools and materials. During the installation process you will need:

pipes of the required diameter;
tees for pipes;
shut-off valves;
sealant for plumbing work;
flexible hoses;
pipe cutter - manual or electric;
soldering iron;
several keys of different sizes.

We take into account the type of plumbing

The method of connecting the boiler to the water supply largely depends on the type of water supply. We will consider several installation options - for polypropylene, metal and metal-plastic pipes.

polypropylene

To ensure a reliable connection of pipes made of polypropylene, you need to use special end couplings and turns. In this case, it is better to choose stabilized pipes, that is, additionally reinforced with another layer (most often this is aluminum foil).

Metal

When it comes to metal plumbing, we usually mean steel pipes. It is more difficult to connect to such pipes - this is due, first of all, to the characteristics of the material. For a more reliable connection, you should use a special clamp that can withstand a large load. The clamp must have a so-called "tie-in" (special pipe).

The boiler is connected to a metal water pipe in the following sequence:

prepare the junction (tie-in): remove dirt and paint residues;
install a clamp on the main pipe, placing a sealing gasket under it;
armed with a drill, we drill a hole in the pipe passing through the pipe (at the same time, we adjust the diameter of the hole to the diameter of the sleeve);
we apply the thread and install the drives on it (threaded connecting elements);
we mount cranes in place;
we attach pipes to the taps, which we then connect to the device.

metal-plastic

Metal-plastic is the most modern of all the above materials. It is lightweight and durable, making it very easy to use. Another important advantage of metal-plastic pipes is the convenience of the installation method: installation is carried out in the open.

The main stages of connection:

cut the pipe
install tees on it;
we make taps to the water heater;
connect the pipes to the device.

We install shutoff valves

An important step in connecting any type of water heater to the water supply is the installation of devices designed to shut off the flow of water. The installation of such fittings for pipes with hot and cold water has its own characteristics.

For cold water supply

Electrical connection

To begin with, we want to introduce you to the basic rules for connecting a water heater to an electrical network. Compliance with these recommendations will allow the installation to be carried out as safely and efficiently as possible.

The socket for the boiler must be located in a place inaccessible to water splashes. Experts strongly advise using special waterproof sockets for these purposes.
The water heater can only be turned on when the ground is connected to the electrical outlet. This can be done using a three-wire wire (in this case, the socket must also be designed for three poles).

Connections of electrical wires must be made outside of a room with a high level of humidity. If we are talking about the kitchen and not the bathroom, this rule can be ignored.

After making sure that all safety rules are observed, you can proceed directly to work. The procedure will be like this:

we measure the distance between the installation site of the water heater and the outlet;
we disassemble the plug of the device into elements;
remove the insulating material from the cable;
we clean the veins with the help of side cutters;
armed with a soldering iron, we connect the wires with the plug contacts (red - to the phase, yellow / green / black - to the ground; blue - to zero);
remove the water heater panel and open the contacts;
we clean the cores at the opposite end of the cable;
we connect them to the contacts of the device and return the panel to its place.

You can connect to the mains in another way - connect the water heater directly to the shield. In this case, you need to act as follows:

we lay the cable from the device to the electrical panel;
we install an automatic machine near the water heater;
we pass the cable through the machine;
remove about 100 mm of insulating material from the cable;
we expose the phase from the machine;
we connect the phase from the machine to the upper terminal, and from the water heater to the lower terminal;
remove the insulating material at both ends of the cable, release the cores;
remove the cover of the boiler, connect the wires to the terminal of the device;
turn off the power supply and connect the heater to the electrical panel.

The following video shows the water heater connection diagrams and their descriptions, which will help you figure out how to connect the boiler correctly.

Taking into account the growing utility tariffs, storage water heaters are becoming more and more relevant in the latter, which can serve as both the main and additional source of hot water supply. In today's article we will talk about self-installation of boilers.

Important! Often, boilers are placed in the toilet, bathroom or kitchen - that is, in the immediate vicinity of the water intake points.

Do-it-yourself boiler installation - is it possible?

We note right away that in the absence of minimal knowledge in the field of plumbing, it is better to entrust the installation to specialists. This is more true for apartments, because if mistakes are made during installation, then the neighbors below will suffer first of all.

Simply put, self-installation is a risky procedure. But if you carefully study the manufacturer's instructions and act strictly according to the technology, then no problems should arise, especially since this option has its own advantages, such as:

Moreover, if repairs begin in the room in which the water heater is installed, then no specialists will be needed to dismantle the device, since everything can be done by hand.

What will be required in the work

For installation, you need to prepare a number of tools:

perforator;
roulette;
mounting level;
Phillips screwdriver;
pliers;
wrench;
marker.

In addition, you will need to purchase:

polypropylene pipes;
FUM tapes (or, alternatively, linen tow).

Installing the water heater on the wall (traditional option)

The device can only be installed on a load-bearing wall, as close as possible to the water intake point, because the temperature of the water moving through the pipes decreases.

Important! Mounting height depends only on ease of use. The user should easily turn on one or another temperature mode, if necessary.

Below is the sequence of actions.

Step 1. First you need to choose a location for installation. In this case, you must adhere to certain requirements.

Step 2. Heating elements, which are equipped with water heaters, are always very powerful, because the speed of water heating should be maximum. In this regard, certain requirements are imposed on the wire that will be used when connecting. There are a lot of them and manufacturers usually indicate them in the data sheet. We only note that the minimum wire diameter should be 5-6 mm.

You should also find out the maximum voltage for which the meter is designed (if it is less than 40 A, then the meter is replaced with a new, more powerful one), and then purchase a switch for a specific number of amperes and an additional 3x6 mm cable.

Step 3. After the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the installation. It is marked on the wall where the lowest point of the heater will be located. Next, the distance between the mark and the upper mounting plate of the device is measured. Holes are made according to the marks.

Important! There are no holes in the bar itself. Fastening is carried out using hook-shaped anchors.

In brick or concrete walls, a pobedit drill is used to make holes, if the wall is wooden, then a standard one will do. The diameter of the holes should be a few millimeters larger than the diameter of the dowels.

After that, the dowels are driven in and the anchors are screwed in, on which the heater will be hung. The anchors are turned all the way, then the mounting plate is put on them.

Step 4. When connecting to the water supply, flexible hoses or PP pipes are used. There should be two connectors on the case:

red for hot water;
blue for a cold fence.

The safety valve supplied with the water heater is installed in front of the cold water inlet. To do this, the connection point is wrapped with FUM tape, a tap is screwed on, and a hose is screwed onto the valve located below. Also, the second end of the hose is screwed to the hot water pipe.

Video - Do I need a safety valve

Then the cold water hose is screwed to the water supply and connected to the blue hole. In this place, it is desirable to install a ball valve in order to always be able to shut off the water if necessary.

"Plumbing" activities are completed, it remains only to connect the heater to the network.

Step 5. The safety relay, cord and plug must come with the boiler. Before connecting, a grounded socket is equipped near the heater.

You can go the other way - install an automatic switch. This is convenient because all the switch terminals are already labeled:

blue wire zero;
brown for phase;
yellow (or any other color except the first two) for grounding.

After connecting all the contacts, voltage is applied. If everything is done correctly, the indicator on the boiler will light up. It remains only to fill the tank and set the desired temperature.

Important! It is unacceptable to connect the device to sockets with a power exceeding 3 kW. In addition, connecting other electrical appliances to this outlet is not allowed.

Step 6. Checking the system. After filling the tank, a hot water tap is opened - this is necessary to remove air. After switching on, the device works for several hours, then you can start active operation.

Video - Installing and connecting a water heater

Features of installation in the apartment

The main feature of a city apartment is the lack of space. If the walls of the toilet are tiled, then it will be quite difficult to install a boiler there. The only option in this case would be to install on the back wall, where there is usually a small cabinet for masking sewer pipes or storing household chemicals.

Step 1. We note right away that a heater with a volume of no more than 10 liters can be placed in the cabinet. First, the locker is freed from all contents - cleaning products, shelves, lid and bottom.

Step 2. Then the center-to-center distance of the fasteners, the dimensions of the cabinet and the gap between it and the wall are noted. The latter is marked, fastener points are indicated. Holes are made in appropriate places, dowels are hammered into which anchors are screwed.

Step 3. The water heater is hung on anchors.

Step 4. The cabinet is assembled back (of course, the shelves and the bottom are no longer used), and the device is connected in the same way as in the previous paragraph of the article.

Sometimes water heaters are installed under the sink, but only an oversized rectangular device is suitable for this. In such a place, the boiler will not interfere, moreover, its surface will be protected from water.

Important! When connecting to the mains, you need to take care of grounding and separate wiring.

The opinion that compact heaters are inefficient is erroneous. Most of them have enough power to heat more than 2 liters of water per minute. The rest of the installation of the heater under the sink has no differences from the traditional installation method.

Features of installing a boiler in the country

Boilers are widely used in private homes. If we are talking about a dacha, where they live mainly on weekends, then there is probably no heating boiler there. Therefore, at each visit there are certain difficulties associated with hot water supply. To avoid them, install a boiler.

The operational specifics of water heaters in the country is that the water pressure is almost always unstable. This is no longer a city apartment, in which the pressure is always the same, because it is supplied from a centralized water supply network.

In view of this, in summer cottages, water-heating equipment is installed 2 m above the nearest water intake point. Thanks to this, the water will circulate naturally even in the absence of pressure.

With regards to the installation technology, it is the same in this case.

When installing/operating the boiler, it is not recommended:

Video - What to look for when installing

As a conclusion

Scientific progress has already reached a level at which everyone is able to provide himself with comfortable living conditions (including hot water), regardless of whether he lives in the city or outside it. The purchase of a storage water heater provides a number of advantages, and the main one is complete independence from a centralized water supply. With the latter, as you know, planned and unplanned outages happen quite often.

The range of modern boilers is wide enough so that everyone can choose a model that meets all requirements and preferences.

In order for the house to be a place of rest, it is important that the living conditions are comfortable enough. This is almost impossible without the presence of hot water, which allows you to maintain personal hygiene and maintain general cleanliness. Purchasing a geyser is always a great solution, but in some areas, installing them is simply not possible.

The principle is the same, but there are many types of water heaters

A boiler is a device for heating and storing hot water. Various elements can act as heat sources. All heaters can be divided into two main types:

With storage tank.
Flowing.

The design of the first provides for the presence of a container. It can be of various sizes. In order for the temperature not to drop over a long period of time, there is a heater between the inner tank and the outer panel. It is usually made of polyurethane foam. The thicker it is, the longer the water will stay hot. The second type is designed for instant hot water supply. It has smaller dimensions, and its design includes heating elements of greater power, which ensures fast heat transfer. As a rule, in both the first and second cases, the user has the opportunity to adjust the temperature to the desired one. The thermostat control can be either electronic or mechanical. This does not affect performance, only convenience, final cost and the cost of subsequent repairs.

All storage boilers are divided into:

direct heating;
indirect heating;
combined.

In the first case, there is a heating element inside the tank, which provides heating of the liquid. Some models have two or more. They can be switched on alternately or simultaneously to provide ultra-fast heating. Cold water is supplied through a pipe, which is usually located at the bottom. The outlet is carried out through the outlet, which is located nearby, but inside the tank it is longer and reaches almost to the top, where hot water rises.

Next to the heating element is a magnesium anode. This is a small metal rod that prevents the formation of scale on the walls. The advantages of this solution are ease of installation, as well as the absence of the need to coordinate the installation with various services. Tanks can have both horizontal and vertical arrangement.

Indirect heating boilers are usually built into the heating system or operate in tandem with solar systems (special panels in which the coolant is heated using solar energy). Structurally, it is exactly the same tank as the first type, but the thermal insulation usually has a large thickness in them. Also, they do not have heating elements. Heating is carried out thanks to the coil, through which the heating circuit is allowed or from another system. They can be mounted both on the wall and on the floor (for tanks with a large capacity).

The design provides a special inspection window, which makes it possible to carry out maintenance. In addition to the inlet and outlet pipes, there can be two more. Their purpose is to organize a recycling system. A separate circuit is created along which hot water from the tank constantly moves. This is necessary to ensure constant mixing of liquid layers inside the storage tank, as well as to compensate for the distance to collapsible systems. In some cases, while the water reaches, most of it remains inside the system, or it loses its original temperature. Usually, the manufacturer provides for the possibility of installing a heating element, which turns this subspecies into the one that will be described below. The advantage of this solution is the maximum use of the efficiency of the heating system.

Of the minuses, one can note the complexity of installation, as well as the inability to use in the summer without an additional heater.

Combined systems combine all the best of the above two options. There is also a coil for indirect heating, and a heating element. The latter can be activated when the capacity of the heating circuit is not enough, or in summer, when there is no heating at all. The disadvantages of such systems are a rather complicated setup and some capriciousness in maintenance. Also, you will have to find a suitable place for it, because. dimensions are large.

Note! Some types of indirect heaters have multiple coils. They either make it possible to connect several systems for heat dissipation, or one of them is designed to use running warm water.

What to choose

If you find it difficult to make a choice, then you need to analyze the following points:

Where is the heater planned to be installed? If the heater is purchased for a private house that has an autonomous heating system, then it makes sense to think about purchasing an indirect heating boiler. It is easier for him to find a separate installation location. The volume will be limited only by the allocated space. In this case, one device will be enough to provide all water points. For small apartments, where space is limited and there is only a shower stall without a bathtub, it makes sense to think about a flow heater. It does not take up much space and provides fast heating. In other cases, an electric storage boiler will do.
How many people live in one house? The power and volume of the device will depend on this. Do not think that the larger the capacity, the better it is for the end user. In fact, such an approach can result in irrational waste of electrical energy. Indeed, in fact, only 50 liters can be used, and 200 liters can be heated. For one inhabitant, a tank of 30 liters will be enough. This volume is enough to comfortably take a shower, wash dishes and wash in the morning. For a family of 2-3 people, you will need a device for 50-80 liters. At the same time, everyone will be able to take a shower with a short interval. The heated water is sufficient for kitchen needs, etc. If there are 4 or more people, then you need to look towards a container with a volume of 100 liters or more.
For what purposes will the device be mainly used? In some cases, it makes sense to delimit hot water consumption zones. For example, most often hot water is used to wash dishes and wash your face. For these purposes, you can put a separate boiler of small capacity - 10-20 liters, and turn on the heater of a larger volume in cases where there is a need to take a shower or bath. For the first, special types with a top connection have been developed, which are mounted directly under the sink and do not take up much space.
Is there an autonomous heating system? If it is not there, then you need to look away with electric heating elements. Except when there is a separate solar system.
What is the condition of the electrical wiring? This is an important factor that can affect the selection of the heating element power. Most often, the design provides for electric heaters with a power of 1.5 kW, for large volumes - 2-2.5 kW. For consumers with 3 kW or more, a separate supply is required. It will also be necessary to take care of the availability of grounding.
Will the walls withstand the planned load? An 80 liter boiler can weigh up to 20 kg, which means that when filled with water, it will weigh 100 kg or more. For loose building materials, this is an unbearable burden. In such cases, it may be necessary to install through fasteners or install a special metal plate that will distribute the load.

Note! Additionally, when choosing, you should also take into account the configuration of the structure. The boiler does not have to be cylindrical, as we are used to. Modern solutions also have Slim versions, in which the diameter is reduced to the smallest possible dimensions. In addition, there are rectangular devices. To be more precise, several smaller cylindrical tanks can still be located inside, but the outer shell has a different shape. For such products, it is easier to find a place for installation, they also take up less space.

Electric heaters can also be different. The most common way to use a heating element is a tubular electric heater. It is in direct contact with water, like a boiler. For this option, grounding is mandatory to eliminate all stray currents. More progressive is the dry heating element. In this case, special containers are recessed into the water column, into which the heater is inserted. It transmits the temperature not directly, but through an "intermediary". This decision is more reasonable from the point of view of suitability for repair, because. no need to remove the tank, empty it and remove the bottom cover. It will be enough just to get access to the heaters.

Particular attention should be paid to the material of manufacture of the inner tank. In cheap models, a regular steel one with enamel is installed. Such a solution has few advantages, because. it has a limited life span, is susceptible to corrosion and cannot be repaired. More durable is stainless steel. With this option, you can count on many years of trouble-free service. This metal does not interact with water, but periodic cleaning of plaque on the walls is still required. A good solution in the middle price category is glass porcelain or ceramics. These coatings are applied to the surface of the inner tank. It is neutral to chemical influences, and also provides a certain degree of water disinfection.

Preparation for installation work

Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare the tool:

perforator;
drills of the required diameter
dowels and hooks;
cable suitable for the cross section;
roulette;
drill;
2 wrenches;
building level.

Which fittings are required will depend on the specific types of pipes, this will be discussed later. Decide on the installation location. It is better if electricity is simply supplied to it, and it is also good if the water distribution is located close to it, so there will be less losses on the way from the source to the mixer. If the external tank is made of ordinary steel, then the room should not have a constant high level of humidity, because. this will lead to corrosion. It is desirable that a constant positive temperature is maintained inside. Otherwise, you will have to make sure that the circuit provides for frost protection, which will automatically turn on the heating element, taking into account the surrounding conditions. It is also necessary to analyze the condition of the walls, as described above, and purchase additional trims.

Note! The electrical circuit for connecting the boiler must necessarily include a residual current device. It will catch the slightest current leakage and stop the supply in a timely manner, which will prevent the user from being harmed.

General points

Regardless of which pipes need to be tapped into, there are a few basic points that must be observed in any situation.

Before starting any action, the supply is blocked to prevent flooding. Usually the valve is in front of the water meter.
If the heater is mounted on a wall, then two holes are drilled using a perforator. To calculate the correct distance between the centers, you must first measure it on a plate that is welded to the boiler. Next, the marks are transferred to the wall and aligned in the same plane using the building level. Dowels are inserted into the holes and hooks are twisted or anchor bolts with a hook are immediately inserted. The tank is suspended, and it must be taken into account that the distance to the wall is not too large, because. then the load on the fasteners will be higher. It must be level in the vertical plane. This can be achieved using an adjustable stand, which is usually included in the design, or linings.
First of all, an American-type detachable connection is mounted on the boiler pipes. This is important because when servicing the unit, it will be much easier to disconnect it from the system.
Next, ball valves are installed. You can not buy individual items, because. there are locking mechanisms with an American.
A non-return valve is installed on the cold water supply, it will prevent the outflow when the liquid disappears in the common system, the blast valve will ensure that the excess is discharged during heating and expansion.
There is another connection option. A tee is first screwed onto the cold water supply pipe. A tap is connected to one of its outlets to discharge water. To the second - a blast valve and another tap that will shut off the total supply.
A hose is connected to drain excess water.
All threaded connections are sealed with hemp or Teflon tape.

Note! If it is known that there are pressure surges in the system that are greater than what the boiler can withstand, then in addition to the check valve, it will also be necessary to install a protective gearbox. Its task will be to normalize the pressure to acceptable values.

In an apartment of an old house, metal pipe wiring is usually used. Connecting to them is somewhat troublesome, but not particularly difficult. If you can’t connect to the tap, then the main element that will be needed is a saddle. This is a metal clamp with rubber gaskets that will allow you to connect to the supply and return system. It must be selected for specific pipes, and the threaded connection should be ½ ".

The best place for insertion is determined.
The paint is peeled off to the width of the tie-in.
The upper part of the saddle is applied to the pipe and the hole is marked.
Next, you need to drill a hole according to the marked mark.
The same actions are performed for the pipe through which hot water will be discharged.
Saddles are mounted on the prepared place. It is important to carefully install the rubber gaskets in order to avoid leaks later. The lower part is substituted and securely fixed with bolts.
The last step is to connect the tie-in and the boiler with the assembled set of additional equipment. To do this, it is better to use a flexible stainless steel hose.

Note! Another option would be not to use a tie-in, but to use a tee. To do this, with the help of a grinder, a small piece of pipe is cut out. Threads are cut on both sides using a lehr, a tee is mounted and connected using a flexible hose.

Connection to a metal-plastic pipe

To carry out these works, you will need two tees for. If it is planned to connect them to the boiler using a flexible hose, then they must be taken with a transition to a ½ "thread, if the supply is planned using the same pipe, then there should be a 16 mm outlet from it. Additionally, you will need to purchase a transition from a metal-plastic pipe for threaded connection.

A place is chosen for the insertion.
It is marked taking into account the size of the tee minus the part of the pipe that will go into the joints.
With the help of special scissors, a small section is cut out.
The nuts are unscrewed from the tee and, together with the fixing rings, are put on two pipes. It is important to do this now, because later it will be impossible.
Pipes are flared on both sides with a special tool. You can also use a standard screwdriver for this.
A tee is inserted. Pipes are recessed to the stop. Two rings are shifted, then everything is clamped with nuts using an adjustable wrench.
If the tee was with a threaded connection, then the connection is made using flexible hoses, as in the first option.
If the supply is planned using a pipe, then two segments are cut, the size of which will be equal to the distance from the tee to the adapter.
Adapters are mounted in ball valves.
Pipe sections are fastened in tees and adapters.

Note! For metal-plastic pipes, fittings are also used, which must be pressure tested. In this case, the sequence of actions will be the same, but you will additionally need a crimping tool.

Connection to polypropylene pipes

In addition, you will need a soldering iron for plastic pipes, special scissors, two tees, two adapters for a threaded connection (MPH or MRV, everything will depend on the thread with which the taps and safety valves are installed), as well as corners - their number will depend on the complexity of the configuration plumbing.

Choose a place to connect.
The pipe is cut to the width of the tee minus 2 cm. Approximately 1 cm will be recessed into the tee on each side.
Using a soldering iron, the pipe and fitting are heated, after which they are interconnected. After articulation, they must not be twisted, as this will lead to poor tightness.
Further, with the help of pipe sections and corners, an eyeliner is made to the boiler nozzles.
At the end, an adapter with a metal thread is soldered.
Everything is securely connected and tightened.

Note! It is good if several flasks with fine filters are installed in front of the boiler, as well as a salt filter - it softens the water and reduces the content of deposits that can accumulate on the walls and the heating element.

Indirect water heater

The piping system will be the same as for the electric version. But there are certain nuances of how to properly organize the circuit of the heating system.

The first scheme involves a connection with a 3-way locking mechanism. The bottom line is that the temperature is set on the thermostat to be lower than on the boiler thermostat. The water coming from the heater goes to the heating system. As soon as the water in the boiler heats up to the set temperature, the valve shuts off the heating supply and lets water into the storage tank. Thus, priority is given to the DHW appliance.

The second includes the presence of two forced circulation pumps. One, as usual, is located on the return pipe of the heating system, the second is also on the return pipe, but already the one that comes from the boiler coil. Their work is controlled by a thermostat. As soon as the temperature in it drops, the storage pump starts, and the one that provided circulation throughout the heating circuit is turned off, and vice versa.

The third method will be useful if a radiant heating distribution system is used in the house. It has a collector, from which hot water from the boiler can flow both to the hot floor and to the radiators. In such a system, the installation of a hydraulic arrow will be mandatory. It will compensate for the difference in pressure that will exist due to the operation of several pumps for individual circuits.

This article will probably be more useful to residents of high-rise buildings than residents living in private homes. Although, if there is no gas connected to the house, or it is a country house, then the storage water heater will be just what you need.

In urban apartments, hot water supply is turned off twice a year: in the fall before the heating season and in the spring after the heating season. Each outage lasts an average of 2 to 4 weeks. So it turns out that a city dweller for a year about a month or two washes in a basin. It's good who has a bath, and who has a shower ...

1. Choosing a storage water heater.

First of all, we determine the volume of the tank.
30 liters is enough for our family of three. True, it also happens that if someone decides to warm up a little and uses more water than they should, then the rest have to wait about 20-30 minutes until the next 30 liters are heated up.

Now we choose the design, and in what design the water heater will be: vertical or horizontal, flat or round, elongated or square, classic white or any other suitable color.

But, again, in order to choose the design and execution, you need to decide on the installation location of the tank. Typically, a water heater is installed in the toilet above the toilet. However, if you have a combined bathroom, then place the tank so that it fits into the design of the bathroom, does not take up the necessary space and does not interfere.

2. Installation.

Installation is simple and does not take much time.
Here you will need a hammer drill - if concrete, or an impact drill - if brick.
Drill or drill with a diameter of 10 mm, and two anchor bolts.
We make markings, drill, drive the anchors and hang the water heater.

3. Connecting the water heater to the water supply.

We will consider two connection schemes: the first is when you make repairs, and the water heater is initially installed permanently. The second is when repairs will only be or are not expected in the near future, but you want hot water. By the way, according to the second scheme, my tank worked for almost 6 years, until finally a repair was made.

In general, the water heater connection diagram is very, very simple.
It is connected in parallel to the domestic water supply system: the inlet to the cold water pipe, and the outlet to the hot pipe.

Let's take a look at the diagram.
When to the apartment hot water comes in- No water heater required. It is cut off from the apartment water supply system with valves №3 and №4 , that is, in normal mode, these valves are closed. Cold and hot water circulates through the pipes as it should be.

Now consider the scheme when the central water supply is turned off and hot water not received to the apartment.

We turn on the water heater.
For this close inlet valve №1 on hot water and open valve №3 and №4 . We supply 220 Volt power to the water heater, and wait about 40 - 50 minutes (depending on the capacity of the water heater) until the water in the tank heats up to the set temperature. Once the water has warmed up, use it as usual.

As hot water is used, the same amount of cold water enters the tank, where cold and hot water are mixed. When the amount of cold water exceeds the amount of hot water, the water in the tank will become warm, and you will have to wait a little for it to heat up.

Now consider temporary water heater installation diagram.
In this case, we need: 2 tees, 2 flexible hoses for connecting water, a fum tape and a plug with a cord. Cord enough to reach the nearest outlet.

First of all, we determine the place of installation of the water heater. It can be mounted on the wall, or you can just put it on the floor, or put it away somewhere.
When we have decided on the installation site, we measure the length from the water heater fittings to the nearest mixer. We purchase two flexible hoses of approximately the same length.

We remove the mixer and screw the tees in its place.

Wrap all threaded connections with fum tape.
Do no more than 3 turns.

Now we install the mixer in place, but already in a tee. Well, we screw the hose from the water heater into the upper part of the tee. As you can see, everything is simple.

Advice. First, assemble the connection diagram to the tee in the store, so that later you don’t run and change the part that doesn’t fit.

When hot water is given, and if the tank bothers you, it can be turned off and removed until the next time. And in the vacant place in the tee, screw the plug.

More to be said about safety valve that comes with the tank. On the diagrams, it is indicated under №5 . This is such a necessary element, without which it is impossible for the water heater to work.

As we know, water expands when heated. And since water is an incompressible medium, when heated, the water will expand, thereby creating pressure on the walls of the tank, as well as on the inlet and outlet pipes. The water has to go somewhere.

So, if there was no safety valve, then when a certain excess pressure was reached, the water would simply break the tank. When there is a valve, the maximum allowable pressure created by water is released through this valve.
The safety valve itself is set to a certain maximum pressure, upon reaching which it works. Therefore, if you notice that water is dripping from the valve - do not be alarmed, this means that it is dumping excess.

4. Supply voltage to the water heater.

For a water heater, it is desirable to stretch a separate power line of 220 volts.

The figure shows part of the access shield of high-rise buildings of the old building (copied from my own). In the driveway or in your shield are added: RCD - QF2, circuit breaker - SF1 and zero block N1.

Remember. Zero block N1 is in no way connected with a common zero.

The following figure shows a diagram with zeroing. That is, you zero on the body of the access shield, thereby forming third conductor necessary for the correct operation of the RCD.

These two water heater connection schemes are used in old high-rise buildings (system TN-C). But which one to use you decide. I personally have not installed an RCD, although I am thinking about it, but I have not yet decided on the circuit.

Be sure to read the articles: and. And only after reading these articles, choose according to which scheme you will connect the water heater.

Well, the electrical circuit for houses of modern construction (system TN-S). Perfect connection. Here, too, I think everything is clear.

Yes, I almost forgot. The supply cable is led directly from the shield to the water heater, and does not start into any junction boxes.

Now you can easily install and connect water heater to the domestic water supply system, as well as supply a 220 volt supply voltage to it.
Good luck!