The popularity of suburban housing is growing. But due to the remoteness of the site for the house, it is often necessary to look for extraordinary types of heating without the use of gas or electricity. The most efficient unit for such independent heating is a solid fuel boiler. We will understand the intricacies of its manufacture with our own hands.

The device and scheme of a solid fuel boiler

This installation is a classic wood-burning stove or other similar fuel, connected to cavities for a liquid heat carrier. The fuel in this equipment is ignited, during its combustion, the liquid (usually water) is heated and, plying through the pipes, it gives off heat to the house.

All solid fuel boilers have the main elements:

firebox with a door - a chamber for burning fuel;

an ash pan with a door - a section under the firebox where ash is poured;

a grate separating the chambers, or a grate;

water jacket - a heat exchanger in which water runs to heat the house;

chimney - a pipe for removing smoke.

The fuel heats up the liquid that runs through the pipes and gives off heat to the house.

The described units for heating the coolant differ only in the internal structure.

Various types of solid fuel boilers

Depending on the fuel combustion scheme, there are two types of installations:

boilers with top ignition (long burning);

boilers with bottom ignition.

The latter are the traditional type, when natural raw materials are set on fire from below. The first option includes units with delayed fuel burnout. The fuel ignited from above is also dosed with air from above. So solid fuel burns very slowly inside its chamber from top to bottom, and its loading is extremely rare.

Among boilers with top ignition, pyrolysis ones stand out. They use a phenomenon called pyrolysis. This is the decomposition (smoldering) of firewood (or other similar fuel) with the release of gas. In such installations, with a lack of oxygen, the fuel does not actually burn, but decomposes in one chamber, while the pyrolysis gas burns out in the second, adjacent chamber. Here, solid fuel is usually pressed through by a piston combined with a pipe for supplying air to the primary chamber (compartment for firewood).

In pyrolysis boilers, firewood slowly smolders, while gas burns out in the adjacent chamber

As a result, extremely slow combustion of fuel occurs. At the same time, the boiler gives off a lot of heat. Such heating in a house with a coolant in the form of water is very effective.

At the same time, according to the type of fuel burned, boilers are divided into:

wood;

coal;

pellet.

There is a firebox at the top of the wood-burning boiler, and an ash pan at the bottom

The first two are clear. As for the pellet unit, special compressed sawdust braces are burned in it. They are called pellets.

In any of the described boilers, the heat exchanger design can have one of the following layouts:

simple bent pipe or bent pipe system;

bent pipes, supplemented with sheet registers like a car radiator.

The second option is usually purchased ready-made in a thermal equipment store.

The heat exchanger consists of bent pipes, supplemented by sheet registers

Preparation for work

Consider the principle of constructing the described boilers separately for each type, but the set of tools will always remain unchanged. Blanks for assembled units should only be made of cast iron, as the most resistant to fire and heat metal.

Applied tools and materials

We will need the following arsenal:

a simple welding machine with a voltage of 220 volts with a set of protective equipment and electrodes;

angle grinder with a set of discs;

electric drill with a set of drills;

tape measure, level, square.

You can do without welding, but in this case the walls of the boiler will have to be fastened with brickwork. In this case, the heat exchanger will need to be ordered at the enterprise.

Approximate calculation of materials

For the manufacture of a solid fuel unit, it is initially necessary to calculate the dimensions of its firebox. And they are taken based on the power of the boiler. These kilowatts, in turn, are calculated as follows: the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated room with a height of 2.5 m is used as the initial value, on average, the boiler power is taken equal to the number of square meters of the house divided by ten.

Let, for example, we have an area of ​​​​a heated room equal to 80 square meters. m. Then the required boiler power:

N \u003d 80 / 10 \u003d 8 kW.

When burning 1 kg of solid fuel, according to reference data, about 4 kW is released. In accordance with the above calculation, 8 kW is enough for heating 80 m 2.

So, from the above, it follows that our firebox must contain at least 2 kg of fuel (8 kW / 4 kW = 2). It is known that 500 kg of dried solid fuel occupies an approximate volume of 1 m3. It turns out that the desired value of the furnace can be found by dividing a cubic meter by 500 kg and multiplying by 2 kg.

We are satisfied with the following dimensions:

unit height - 0.5 m;

width - 0.2 m;

depth of the combustion chamber - 0.3 m.

To check the volume, multiply these values. V \u003d 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.5 \u003d 0.03 m 3.

This parameter is greater than our calculated value, equal to 0.004 m 3. So, the accepted dimensions will suit us. Now you can sketch.

The outlet for the chimney can be placed behind the boiler

Based on the dimensions of the unit, we stock up on rectangular sheets of cast iron 8 mm thick for the manufacture of the boiler, as well as a heat exchanger. We will need the following details.

side walls with dimensions of 0.5 x 0.3 m - 2 pieces;

rear wall with dimensions 0.5 x 0.2 m - 1 piece;

the bottom of the unit with dimensions of 0.2 x 0.3 m;

Before the heat generator, complete with chamber doors (0.5 x 0.2 m) - 1 piece;

top sheet with a hole for the chimney (0.2 x 0.3 m);

heat exchanger.

We will make the last element from a cast-iron pipe using a bending machine. If necessary, we will use a welding machine.

Heated water flows through the heat exchanger

The front part of the heat generator complete with doors is best purchased at the flea market - there are a lot of them! It is also necessary to purchase a grate installed above the ash pan. Ash from the furnace will pour through it. The heat exchanger can be ordered separately from the welding shop.

Materials for long burning boilers

For a pyrolysis unit, as well as for a product with the possibility of a rare laying of firewood, we use a cylinder. It should be a cast-iron barrel or pipe with a diameter of approximately 400 mm. Its height will be about 1 meter. For the upper part, as well as for the bottom, a round blank with the same diameter of 400 mm is required.

For a pyrolysis boiler, you will need a partition that looks like a top. It will be a cast-iron circle also with a diameter of 400 mm. It will separate the solid fuel chamber from the pyrolysis gas burnout chamber. Holes are needed for the penetration of gases in it. The same circle is useful for the piston.

It can be seen offhand that the volume of these installations will also exceed the calculated value of 0.004 m 3.

Step-by-step instructions for making a solid fuel boiler

First, let's assemble a classic wood-fired unit with a lower ignition.

Wood burning boiler

In the manufacture of such a unit, you should proceed in stages:

On a flat platform, the lower part is horizontally installed - the cast-iron bottom of the future heat generator. The rest of the blanks are pre-cleaned with an angle grinder in the places of future welding.

Then all the walls of the body of the product are placed vertically. With the help of a square, their mutual perpendicularity is observed. Boil parts with electrodes at the junctions. It turns out while the box without the top.

When connecting the walls of the case, perpendicularity should be observed, for this you need to use a square

To form a blower chamber or the so-called ash pan, a cast-iron grate is installed inside the box in size. The height of its fastening is equal to the height of the formed compartment (about 10 cm is enough). The part to be mounted must be fixed with an interference fit. It can be grabbed with short welding seams.

Ash from the combustion of fuel is poured into the ash pan

Next, the top sheet of the heat generator is welded with a hole for the chimney.

Then the working part of the heat exchanger is mounted to the furnace in the place of greatest contact with the emitted combustion products.

Now connect the upper opening of the unit to the chimney, in which there is a damper assembly.

At the next stage, the tubular outlets of the water jacket are connected to the space heating circuit. Here, threaded connections with a seal are used. At the inlet, if necessary, install coolant temperature sensors or drain valves.

Inside bent pipe

The unit is tested only after the complete installation of the entire heating system.

Video: do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler

DIY pellet boiler

This unit is practically no different from wood. Only as a solid fuel it uses pressed sawdust - pellets.

Pellets are easy to use

Based on the foregoing, the instructions for assembling the boiler for this type of fuel will be identical to those described earlier. Only the ash grate is used here with narrower slots so that the granules do not immediately fall down.

Do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler for long burning

This unit differs from the one described above in that firewood or pellets are loaded and ignited in it from above, and not from below. Also, the body of the product is cylindrical. The manufacturing instructions look like this:

We install the bottom with a diameter of 400 mm on the platform for the boiler.

We weld a cast-iron pipe of the appropriate size to the bottom. This will be the body of the assembled unit.

For the boiler body, a pipe with a diameter of 400 mm can be used.

On the side of the cylinder, in its upper part, we cut holes opposite each other - one for laying firewood, and the second for igniting fuel.

We weld a circle to the body for the upper part of the product.

We cut out two holes in this part - one for connecting to the chimney, and the second for air supply. However, a chimney outlet can also be made on the side of the case.

In a combustion boiler, an air supply pipe is obligatory

We connect the chimney and the air supply pipe to the boiler. The latter can be equipped with a fan.

Do-it-yourself pyrolysis boiler

In this product, the device resembles the one just described. But a few details need to be added.

Since it is very difficult to make a pyrolysis boiler on your own, it is usually purchased as a whole. The instruction described below is an approximate plan of action for installing a home-made installation.

At first, the same cylinder is used as in the previous technology. Next, carry out the following actions:

A partition is welded inside the container. This is a circle of cast iron with holes. In the future, he will separate the upper chamber for burning firewood from the compartment for the pyrolysis combustion of the released gas.

Next, the piston is made. This part is designed to push through solid fuel during its combustion. The element should be heavy, and its diameter should be slightly less than the corresponding size of the cylinder.

The piston pushes the fuel during its combustion

Finally, install the piston inward. Next, the upper part of the unit is welded with holes for the piston rod, for connecting to the chimney and for loading firewood or pellets.

Make a connection to the chimney.

All boilers are connected to the common heating system in the same way, so the following description is the same for all the instructions given.

Strapping installation

Connecting the piping to the heat generator is carried out in stages:

First, install the supply water supply. It must be connected to the upper outlet of the solid fuel boiler by means of a valve, the role of which is usually played by a ball valve.

The supply water is connected to the boiler with a ball valve.

At the top point, at the beginning of the supply pipeline, it is desirable to install an expansion tank of 10 liters. After all, the coolant tends to expand when heated, and this tank will serve as a kind of pressure stabilizer in the system.

The expansion tank serves as a pressure stabilizer in the system

Next, you need to mount the radiators under the windows of the room, in accordance with building codes, and connect the supply line to them.

The heating supply line is connected to the radiators

Then the return line is mounted. After the radiators, closer to the heating unit, a three-way valve is installed on this line.

A jumper pipeline is connected to the three-way valve, which directly connects the supply and the "return". The jumper is needed for emergency shutdown of the boiler from the system.

A branch pipe with a valve should be attached to the direct outlet of the three-way valve, after which, if necessary, a pump is built in.

Next is the installation of the circulation pump. It can be mounted on the supply line, but it is better - on the return line. For the installation of this node on the "return" is justified, since the temperature of the coolant is lower here, which means that the operating conditions of the device are better.

It is better to mount the circulation pump on the return line

Finally, the final element is a ball valve, from which the “return” pipe goes directly to the boiler return.

The boiler is installed in accordance with building codes. The main thing here is compliance with fire safety rules.

The distance from the walls to the boiler must be at least 35 cm.

The place for the heat generator is chosen in a private house for the following reasons:

the boiler should be located in the center of the building, in the corner of the walls adjacent to other rooms;

the unit is located close to the house chimney;

the installation site of the heat generator (floor and walls) is covered with metal or other material that protects against fire.

The above instructions prove that making a solid fuel boiler with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is that some skill in plumbing is needed. You also need to be able to handle the welding machine. At the same time, a solid fuel boiler built in accordance with all the rules requires practically no maintenance. It is enough to clean it from ashes once a season.

If you do not want to spend money on expensive gas and other boilers, then you will probably be interested in how you can make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. The efficiency of such a boiler is approximately on the same level as the furnace, and making a boiler with your own hands is not so difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Drawings of solid fuel boilers can be easily found in open sources and guided by them when working. Today we will tell you how you can make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands and what is required for this.

The design of solid fuel units

There are different designs of solid fuel boilers. Some are designed so that with their help you can not only heat the house and heat water, but also cook food. This will increase the efficiency of the solid fuel boiler and reduce the cost of space heating.

To work on the manufacture of a solid fuel boiler with your own hands drawings, materials and tools will be required. The solid fuel type boiler consists of the following elements:

• a box for burning solid fuel, which is equipped with grates for supplying air in the right amount;
• throttle valves for closing the channels after the extinction of the flame and controlling the force of air draft;
• liquid reservoir. Water in the heating system serves as a heat carrier. The reservoir may be a tubular heat exchanger;
• chimney to create draft, which brings the combustion products of the fuel out.

In addition, an important, but optional element of the system is a thermal accumulator, which evenly distributes heat throughout the premises. This is a container made of metal of the right size, which is installed with your own hands on a solid fuel unit, and accumulates thermal energy with an active firebox. When the furnace is temporarily suspended, the carrier circulates through the highways by blowing air.

It is also possible to install an additional domestic hot liquid tank above the thermal accumulator in order to provide better comfort for residents.

Before starting work on assembling a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you need to make drawings of the boiler and the entire heating system. Such drawings can be found on the Internet and ready-made, but it is better to adapt them to your home, since you need to create your own approach to each heating system.

Tools and materials for work

To assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you need to prepare the following:

To purchase building materials at a bargain price, it is best to contact a company that deals with metal rolling, and can provide a good discount.

Boiler assembly work involves welding, so the complete list of working tools looks like that:

• inverter or other welding machine that can be used at home;
• measuring instruments, including tape measure, building level and corners;
• high power grinder;
• electric drill with drills;
• pliers and tongs.

You need to start work only if you have the skills to work with welding and other tools that will be required when assembling the boiler.

Creating a solid fuel boiler with your own hands

With the competent organization of the assembly workflow, there will be nothing complicated in the work. It is advisable to carry out the assembly of the boiler in a specially designated room, for example, in a workshop. Details for the boiler make on a workbench.

Features of the manufacture of body parts

The key element of any heating boiler, regardless of what fuel it will run on, is the firebox. To make a firebox with your own hands, you need only high-quality materials that can withstand maximum temperature loads of up to a thousand degrees. So, body manufacturing process boiler consists of the following:

To make such a square-shaped hole, you need steel apply markings, then take an electric drill and make holes in the corners. Next, a through cut is made with an angle grinder and is carried out from the center to the edge.

Production of water tank and heat exchanger

In order for a solid fuel boiler to be as efficient as possible, it should be equipped with two water tanks. They are made on the basis of stainless steel sheets, from which rectangles of the desired size must be cut and welded together. Remember that for welding you need not only to have a special apparatus, but also have relevant skills, or entrust this work to professionals by contacting a specialized workshop.

A heat exchanger is a set of simple pipes that are used in water pipes. They are welded to each other so that they eventually form a so-called flow cycle, which has the maximum allowable external area. Thus, it is possible to achieve the most efficient heat transfer between the coolant and the combustible fuel.

Features of the assembly of a solid fuel boiler

It is worth noting that the design of heating devices is such that there is a lot of metal in them, naturally, this affects their weight. Therefore, the assembly of the finished boiler must be carried out at the place of its direct installation.

The assembly includes the following steps:

Sand for this purpose should be used well washed, it should not contain any dirt or any organic elements. Before work, it will need to be calcined on a flame in order to burn out everything unnecessary from it. If this is not done in advance, then an extremely unpleasant odor will form during the operation of the boiler.

The last stage of work is in the installation of the top plate. All finished stainless steel tanks must be placed on top of the stove and connected to the appropriate circuits of the system. Then you need to put the doors of each hopper in place and do a test run of the unit to check how it works.

One of the requirements that is put forward to boilers using any fuel, regardless of the place of use, is high efficiency. They must also have low thermal inertia and have a fast power control function.

Also, you should choose a heater on one or another fuel, depending on the area where you live. A solid fuel boiler is best suited for regions with a cold climate and severe winter frosts.

If you want to assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, then with the right approach and strict observance of the instructions, you will receive an economical heating unit and save a lot of money on its purchase, installation and operation.

Some call such heating equipment an ordinary stove, but in a barrel of water, and they say that the efficiency will be a maximum of 10%. But this is far from the case, a solid fuel boiler and a simple stove are very different from each other. The fact is that the process of burning solid fuel is very long in time. So, gas or diesel fuel can be completely burned in a short time, but with firewood or coal, such a trick will not work. That is why the requirements for such boilers are different than the requirements for a conventional furnace.

It is noteworthy that a long-burning boiler is not at all necessary to buy, such a design can even be built independently. This is a good solution for settlements where there is no central gas supply, and it is also economical. But before proceeding with the work, it is necessary to study everything, even the smallest nuances of the process.

The advantages of such boilers over a conventional furnace

Of course, in the village you can build a traditional brick oven and enjoy such a source of heat. But the design of the furnace is very impractical, and the fuel is not consumed rationally. And what to say about care, regularly cleaning the stove from soot and ash is not the most pleasant experience. Temperature fluctuations in different parts of the house or even rooms also do not allow to equip the optimal microclimate. In such a situation, a long-burning solid fuel boiler will be the best solution to the problem.

This is a special design, for which coal, firewood and other types of solid fuels are used. Such boilers have become popular quite recently, but their advantages have already been appreciated by millions of users. The power of the device is enough not only for heating a residential building, solid fuel ones are used even in large industrial premises.

It is also worth considering that this type of boiler is much more economical than simple solid fuel units. The long-burning device can work practically without interruption during the entire cold season, it is enough to load fuel in a timely manner. By the way, if you are worried that you will have to throw firewood every hour, then this is in vain, the download occurs 1 time in several days. Coal, firewood or special briquettes can be used as fuel. There are industrial models of such boilers on the market, but they are too large, it’s definitely impossible to make them on your own.

Varieties of long-burning boilers

Such boilers are an alternative to heating appliances that work with gas. The long-burning unit is called very practical and easy-to-use equipment.

An important advantage is also a long service life. There are also no complaints about the environmental friendliness of work and economical fuel consumption for long-burning boilers. That is why this type of equipment has become popular.

Today on the market there are such options for boilers:

1. Pyrolysis.
2. Classical.
3. Mine.

Pyrolysis

Boilers of this type produce heat by burning wood gas, which appears when wood smolders. In this design, when working, there will be a flame that will remind you of a gas burner or a blowtorch. The temperatures inside are also very high, in the lower chamber this figure reaches 12 thousand degrees.

Due to the fact that combustion occurs from top to bottom, and the main heat exchange element is located below, the most efficient heat transfer occurs. This principle of operation allows the equipment to heat the coolant as much as possible.

The main advantage of this type of boiler is that the equipment will generate heat for a very long time on one tab of fuel. The boiler operates on the principle of pyrolysis combustion, and with too little air and high temperature, the decomposition of wood into volatile elements begins, which begin the combustion process.

The positive aspects of this option also include:

• High efficiency (85%);
• In such boilers, the loading door is very voluminous, which makes it possible to clean the combustion chamber without problems;
• For the production of heat exchangers, a durable sheet of high quality steel is used;
• The design includes a powerful fan;
• The electronic system is controlled by circulation pumping equipment;
• The pyrolysis boiler can even be used for heating industrial premises.

Classical

Variants of classic solid fuel boilers are equipped with a large volume firebox, which also allows you to increase the duration of combustion. The following are used as fuel:

• Different types of coal;
• wood briquettes;
• Firewood.

But such a boiler has a rather low efficiency compared to other options; it will not work on one tab for a long time. But there are also advantages, among which the most important is the price. The cost of factory options for classic solid fuel boilers starts at 30,000 rubles.

Often a boiler of this type is used as backup heating equipment. In this case, heating takes place using a gas boiler, and if necessary, you can immediately switch to a solid fuel unit.

Mine

Boilers of this type are used for burning various bulk materials. The design has a fan that supplies air to the furnace, all this is controlled by a microprocessor. Mining boilers are very large in size, and their design is complex; it is not easy to build such equipment on your own.

Benefits of a mine boiler:

• Unique design that ensures efficient operation;
• The presence of a loading door with a large cross section and the presence of a large bunker;
• Any material can be used for combustion;
• Temperature indicators of emissions are within the normal range.

Other classifications of long-burning appliances

Such units are divided not only according to the principle of combustion, but also according to the type of solid fuel used:

1. Boilers that generate heat by burning wood. For heating in some units, they buy special pellets-granules, which are made from wood waste.
2. Universal models. In such devices, you can lay a variety of options for solid fuels or even make mixtures of them.

An important criterion is the automation of equipment. If the boilers need to be connected to the mains, then they are dependent, and if not, then they are independent.

Pros and cons of homemade units

As already mentioned, boilers of this type can be made without special equipment and without the help of craftsmen. Self-made units have the following positive properties:

• The duration of the boiler from one bookmark of fuel is 2 times longer than the duration of traditional wood-fired boilers. If we are talking about coal, then there will be a difference of 3 times in the duration of the work;
• The design is very simple, so even when making a heating unit with your own hands, you can do everything quickly. And, of course, it will turn out much cheaper than buying a factory version;

• Opportunities for upgrading equipment. So, one of the most popular factory options has an operating pressure of 1.6 bar. This is a fairly low level, and you yourself can make a unit in which the pressure will be up to 3 bar;
• Work on different types of fuel. You can put firewood, coal or waste in the form of sawdust, etc. into the boiler. The main thing is that there is a constant flow of air to the fuel chamber. But the moisture content of the wood is not so important.

The craftsmen simplified the design a bit so that such boilers could really be made without outside help and production equipment. Major change in the oxygen supply system. It is rather difficult to make a telescopic element, and now a steel pipe has begun to be used instead, it has a length of 30-50 centimeters more than the height of the furnace itself. At the end, a “pancake” and air dispersion elements are installed. The other part sticks out of the cover of the structure, it is necessary to install a damper on it to control the air supply.

The disadvantages of home-made boilers are the same as those of the factory options, but when you make the boiler yourself, then such shortcomings can be corrected and everything can be done really well:

1. Cylindrical shape. Typically, such boilers have a cylindrical body, and it is very difficult to give such a shape to the metal without a rolling machine. But there is a way out, you can build a firebox from empty cylinders that are intended for propane. You can also use pipes of the required diameter. But it is worth considering that such pipes are very durable, their wall thickness is 5 millimeters or more, so the weight of the structure will increase significantly.

1. Short burning. We do not always need the boiler to work all day, sometimes we just need to warm up the house for a couple of hours and turn off the equipment. To do this, load the boiler furnace only a quarter. It is very difficult to do this, but in home-made designs this problem is solved, you can equip an additional door in the middle, and it will be used for partial firewood.

1. The design of long-burning boilers is such that it is better not to throw fuel "on the go". For high-quality loading of firewood or coal, you must wait for the complete combustion of the previous portion. If the door is opened during operation of the boiler, then smoke will begin to come out of it inside the house, and the fuel will have to be thrown in very quickly and anyhow. This problem is solved by installing a heat accumulator.

Principle of operation, diagram and drawings

The principle of operation of this type of heating equipment is based on the combustion of one or another type of fuel by upper or upper-lower combustion. In this process, the duration of solid fuel combustion increases significantly, and the number of calories of thermal energy increases.

The main difference between such boilers is the use of large chambers into which firewood, coal or other material is loaded. Top combustion allows you to achieve impressive results with just one stack of fuel.

Drawings will greatly simplify this task. In particular, they show that there is no grate with an ash pan in the design, and a closed tray is located in the lower part. This allows you to exclude the burning of firewood in the upper, cylindrical part of the boiler.

The air flow comes from above, then a special distributor distributes it throughout the device. By the way, the distributor is a moving part, which allows you to adjust the process. In the upper part of the device, the accumulation of combustion elements and ash gradually occurs. This zone is "adjacent" to the area where the primary combustion takes place, a steel disc is used to separate it. At the entrance to the chamber, an automatic draft adjuster is mounted - a special device that helps to determine the temperature of the heat source, and according to these indicators, the gas outflow rate is adjusted. The functions of the heat exchanger are performed by the body of our boiler itself.

Also in the device there are special sections for connecting the supplied and return fluid, thermometer and traction. The heat-insulating shell allows you to make the design more reliable.

We make the boiler ourselves

To make a long-burning solid fuel boiler, you will need:

• Steel pipe with a diameter of 300 and a wall thickness of 3 millimeters;
• Sheet metal (material thickness - 4 mm);
• 60 mm steel pipe (used for air supply), as well as a 100 mm pipe (for smoke extraction);
• Tools: welding device, grinder.

Heating equipment of this type should only be mounted on a smooth horizontal surface. In some cases, they make a special concrete formwork, which increases not only strength, but also safety.

Step-by-step instructions for building a boiler:

1. The pipe for the structure must be cut to a certain length (usually from 80 to 100 centimeters). If you make a longer base, then the process of laying fuel will become more complicated. Next, you should align the edges, weld the bottom of the metal sheet. Also, the boiler can be made legs from the channel.
2. At this stage, it is necessary to make an air flow distributor, for this a circle is prepared, the diameter of which is 2 centimeters smaller than the diameter of the pipe. Make a small hole in the center of this circle. An impeller with steel blades should be welded to the lower zone of the distributor, their width should not exceed 5 centimeters. A 60 mm pipe is mounted in the upper zone so that the hole is in its center. It is worth considering that the height of the pipe must exceed the height of the boiler itself. A damper is also welded at the top, which will allow you to regulate the air supply.
3. At the bottom of the structure, it is necessary to make a door for removing ash. To do this, cut out a concave rectangle, it is best to use a grinder. Hinges and a locking handle are attached to this element.

1. A chimney of 100 millimeters is welded in the upper zone of the device. It should be noted that it should be almost horizontal by at least 40 centimeters, then this element is passed through a heat exchanger (tank).

In the end, it remains only to make a cover with a hole for the distributor pipe. It should fit snugly against the combustion chamber, if this is not done, then smoke will go out.

Connection and installation

In fact, it is quite easy to do it yourself. The installation method is selected taking into account some features of the heating equipment:

• The temperature of the outer walls can be very high even if a water jacket is installed around;
• Homemade boilers mostly have ordinary walls.

It is worth considering that the structure should not be installed closer than 50 centimeters from the adjacent wall. If the wall of the house is made of combustible material, then additional insulation must be made. For this, brickwork is used, an easier option would be to install galvanized steel sheets and asbestos gaskets. After that, a space (25 centimeters) is left between the chimney and the ceiling, which must be filled with basalt wool and sewn up with galvanization.

It is also better to make a foundation for the boiler, because the structure weighs a lot, and when the fuel is fully loaded, the mass and load on the floor increase. For the foundation, it is best to use reinforced concrete with a "stuffing" of crushed stone. Next, a pre-made chimney is welded to the boiler, and the entire system is connected to the water circuit. The connection diagram will help to understand this issue in more detail.

So that in a home-made boiler you can use any type of solid fuel, and the device lasts as long as possible, it is better to use heat-resistant alloy steel pipes for the furnace. But this material is very expensive, a more affordable alternative would be Grade 20 seamless steel pipe (used to move the pair).

If you use a cylinder for the furnace chamber, then it is worth considering that the already small volume will decrease due to the cut top and ash pan. You can solve the problem in a very simple way, make a boiler out of two cylinders, then the volume of the furnace will definitely be enough. You can also do without an ash pan, and use the cut off top of the cylinder as a lid. The second method is very effective when heating small rooms.

When the boiler is ready, the ash pan door must be sealed. First, fit it tightly to the hinged opening, and install an asbestos cord around the perimeter of the door. If your boiler has an additional door for partial loading, then it should also be sealed.

Boiler operation

For such boilers, various types of fuel can be used:

• Coal;
• Brown coal;
• Anthracite;
• Wood pellets and briquettes;
• Firewood;
• Slates with peat.

Wood materials are characterized by a high yield of volatile elements during combustion. The most popular type of fuel for such structures is coal. Oil shales have a very high ash content, so they are rarely used in heating appliances.

The boiler is very easy to use. First of all, it is necessary to load the fuel into the chamber, and do it as tightly as possible, without leaving large gaps, because the burning time depends on this. If you use coal, then you should consider that it is forbidden to replenish it during combustion. In the case of firewood, they can be thrown, but you should not open the doors wide so as not to get burned.

There are no special requirements for humidity, but it is still better to use dry materials, they have better qualities during combustion. When using peat and coal, it is imperative to use an air flow manifold.

Solid fuel boilers work differently than conventional ones, in which heat comes directly from the fire. Such units are installed in private and country houses, country cottages or industrial premises. At home, you can make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, using special diagrams and drawings. In this case, you must follow the step-by-step instructions, observing all safety measures.

Do not forget about safety measures with a similar boiler

Work principles

In a solid fuel boiler, one bookmark can last up to seven hours of burning. If you do not add firewood in time, the temperature in the room will begin to drop rapidly. This is due to the principle of free gas movement.: hot air flows up and then out. A long-burning device can keep the room warm for one or two days, the most expensive models can withstand up to seven days.

According to the drawings of a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you can understand that the efficiency of its work lies in the correct structure. In a conventional unit, fuel is located below, the flame from it rises to the air distributors. Then hot oxygen enters the heating chamber, from which it exits through pipes to heating radiators. The fan provides a timely supply of air to the flame.

In this video you will learn how to make a heating boiler with your own hands:

In a solid fuel boiler there are two combustion chambers at once, and the firebox itself is located in the upper part. Firewood or coal is laid in it, and air is supplied with the help of special fans. When the top layer of fuel burns out, new flows of oxygen are supplied. This allows the wood to burn very slowly, giving more heat to the room.

You can buy several models of such equipment. Budget units include wood-burning boilers - you can’t put anything in them except logs. The remaining devices are heated with coal, sawdust, household waste, briquettes.

On engineering drawings, do-it-yourself solid fuel boilers depict with the location of the main elements:

• the firebox door is on top;
• in the same part, the smoke pipe is connected to the chimney;
• an ash pan is built in below, through which the boiler is cleaned;
• oxygen enters the upper part of the air chamber with the help of a damper.

The ash pan of the structure is completely sealed, it does not function as a blower, since air enters through the top. Both chambers, the ash pan and the chimney are located in the steel boiler body with walls 5-7 mm thick.

Disadvantages and advantages

The homemade unit has large dimensions and a complex design. It is better to use it for heating a cottage or a house with large rooms. The device will not be economical in small country houses. The advantages of the boiler include:

• autonomy of the heating system;
• long service life and design reliability;
• efficiency and economy;
• high efficiency;
• fuel availability and versatility;
• environmentally friendly home heating.

This boiler has a number of pros and cons.

Do-it-yourself solid fuel boilers also have a number of advantages over the purchased option: a home-made unit will cost less, it can be made more powerful, and the design can also be changed to a more convenient one. Among the shortcomings are:

• the need to constantly clean the device;
• the complexity of the schemes and drawings of solid fuel boilers with their own hands;
• preliminary equipment of a small boiler room.

It is possible to give the steel sheet the shape of a cylinder only with the help of a rolling machine. But you can replace the steel with an empty propane tank or a sturdy iron pipe with a suitable diameter. The wall thickness of the container must exceed 5 mm.

Manufacturing instructions

First you need to prepare all the diagrams and drawings. Thereafter selection of materials and tools that will be needed at work:

• drill and welding machine;
• pliers;
• grinder;
• grinder;
• tape measure, level;
• empty cylinder and steel sheets;
• asbestos, steel pipe;
• hinges, handles, corner;
• hood and fiber for the passage of the chimney.

According to the drawing, all markings are drawn on the cylinder, a hole is cut out for the ash pan. A mark is made in the upper part, along which the top will be removed. It must be cut with a grinder. In the center you need to make an opening for the exit of the chimney. A metal ring is welded onto the lid, and steel is also attached to the inner and outer sides of the cylinder.

To assemble such a boiler, do not forget about the right tool

A metal circle is attached to the bottom of the prepared pipe, which will play the role of an air distributor. Fasteners are cut from metal, welded along the cut line, placing an asbestos cord. You need to weld a handle to the cut top and put the lid on the cylinder. A pipe is made by a grinder, fastened to a chimney, and the structure is connected to the body.

A metal door is screwed to the opening of the ash pan. Measure the inner diameter of the cylinder, make markings on a steel sheet. It is necessary to cut a circle with a diameter exceeding the body by 5 mm. Six identical blades are made from a metal corner and attached to a round part - this is a future fan. The amount of firewood to be laid depends on the size of the heat exchanger. It needs to be welded from steel walls, then the finished element is inserted into the body.

Sheet metal covers the entire body of the boiler for greater strength and reliability. Air inlets and outlets are made at the top and bottom. An opening for the ash pan is cut out in steel so that it coincides with the hole on the cylinder, the metal is welded from above. This forms a sealed enclosure with a round firebox inside. Fuel must be loaded into the finished structure. To do this, remove the lid, take out the oxygen supply limiter, load coal or firewood. The pipe is returned to its place, a burning match is thrown into the furnace. As soon as the fuel starts to light up, you need to close the lid. The limiter will lower as the firewood burns.

To install a coal-fired boiler in the room with your own hands, you need to allocate a special place. An additional cut should be made for the chimney outlet in the roof or wall. Under the balloon you need to arrange a small pedestal made of bricks. Adjacent walls are sheathed with steel or other heat-resistant material. All joints of the chimney are coated with sealant, attached to the pipe on the boiler, and the other end is brought out.

Before installing a coal boiler in the house, need to test it on the street. Since the top is cut off from the cylinder, the operating time of the firebox is reduced from ten to five hours. If there is no desire to lay firewood every period of time, but two cylinders can be connected together.

The sealant can be replaced with an asbestos cord, gluing it along all joints and seams. It is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature of the system and prevent it from overheating. A shut-off valve is not installed on the pipeline.

The room must be constantly ventilated, because even a small amount of carbon monoxide can lead to poor health. Do not keep flammable objects near the structure, protect it from children and pets.

It is advisable to equip a separate utility room for the TT boiler with your own hands, as it gets a little dirty during operation. It is necessary to monitor its condition, the amount of fuel and the access of oxygen.

Of modern combustible materials in everyday life, solid fuel is considered the cheapest. This category includes coal, firewood, peat, briquettes or pellets. Traditional stoves provide cheap and easy heating for homes. However, continuous loading of fuel is necessary. This way of working presents difficulties in heating the whole house. An excellent solution to the problem is a long-burning boiler with a water circuit.

Installation and operation does not require the permission of supervising structures. Therefore, the heating unit is easy to make and install with your own hands. This will require minimal financial costs, boiler drawings and detailed manufacturing instructions.

Principle of operation

The units are an improved type of solid fuel furnaces. Powerful boilers are able to effectively heat not only residential buildings, but also industrial, auxiliary and commercial premises. The technology of the boiler with a water circuit is based on the slow combustion of solid fuels with a high degree of heat transfer. The boiler is a volumetric furnace with a limited ignition area. Firewood or pellets are laid every 12-18 hours. By adjusting the air flow from above, intense combustion is transferred to slow smoldering.

Exhaust gases are discharged through the chimney. It passes through the heat exchanger and heats the water for the heating system. Thus, fuel is loaded with a rare frequency, and the system operates almost continuously.

Varieties of boilers

Wood-fired heating units are an excellent alternative to gas appliances. They are characterized by multiple advantages:

1. High efficiency - due to slow combustion of fuel, the efficiency reaches 90%.

2. Long-term activity - a volumetric furnace with a powerful blower is able to provide continuous operation for up to 7 days.

3. Environmental friendliness - when fossil fuels are burned, a small amount of carbon dioxide is released into the atmosphere.

4. Profitability - built-in electronics helps to set the optimal boiler loading mode.

Slow burning heating units are presented on the modern market in three varieties.

• Classic.

They work on coal, wood or wood briquettes. Due to the small firebox, the combustion period of one bookmark is reduced. To ensure continuous operation during the day, the fuel has to fall asleep 4-6 times. The advantage of classic boilers is the low price.

• Mine.

Design with a large hopper and a wide loading opening. Dry bulk materials are used. Automatic control optimizes the combustion process. Depending on the load, a powerful boiler operates from 6 to 24 hours. The efficiency is no more than 75%.

• Pyrolysis.

They operate on the principle of burning wood gases released during a slow smoldering process. The design ensures high efficiency of heat transfer and fast heating of the coolant. At one load, the furnace operates until the fuel burns out completely, the efficiency factor is 85%.

Scheme of a wood-burning stove with a water circuit

Boilers according to the drawings of Vasily Pustovoichenko are simple and affordable installations that you can do yourself. As a basis, an all-welded pipe, a steel barrel or a used gas cylinder is used. The thickness of the metal walls should be at least 3-4 mm. This reduces metal burnout and ensures long-term trouble-free operation of the equipment. The height of the base varies from 800 to 1000 mm. The volume of a single fuel load depends on the value of this parameter.

The scheme of a wood-fired heating boiler consists of three parts:

• loading hopper - a container for laying fuel, the height of which changes as it burns out;
• combustion chamber - the area where the slow smoldering of firewood and the generation of gases occur;
• complete combustion zone - a closed pan where wood gases are burned, ash accumulates and smoke is removed.

The combustion chamber is limited by an air distributor. This is a metal circle 4-6 mm thick with a hole in the center. A telescopic (or solid) pipe passes through it, supplying oxygen to the combustion zone. The distributor disc is in motion, so its diameter is slightly smaller than the boiler body. Air enters the discharge pipe from the atmosphere, penetrating through the upper damper.

Exhaust gases are discharged through a chimney fixed at the top. At the bottom of the wall is a door through which ash and ashes are removed. In long-burning boilers, solid fuels are burned almost completely, so waste is removed infrequently. In addition, the design provides points for connecting the supply and return water. Also determine the place of fixing the thermometer and the draft regulator.

There are two ways to heat the coolant in the water circuit:

1. Make an external storage tank, inside which pass the pipe. Exhaust gases move along the chimney and at the same time heat the water.

2. Pass the heat exchanger tube through the combustion chamber. Connect a coil to it, which is located in the storage tank.

The efficiency of the second method is higher. However, the execution technology looks much more complicated.

Do-It-Yourself Guide

If there is not enough money to buy a finished heater, you can try to make it yourself. First you have to study the drawings, read the instructions and calculate the possible costs.

To create a boiler, you will need the following materials and fixtures:

• Metal thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 300-400 mm.
• Sheet steel 4 mm thick.
• Two metal pipes: Æ 60 mm for air supply and Æ100 for removal of combustion products.
• Reinforcing bars 20 mm thick.
• Blower fan.
• Automatic scheme.
• Welding machine, grinder.

In accordance with the drawings, it is necessary to make separately the body, chimney, air distributor, door and cover for the upper part.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Cut the pipe with a grinder so that its length is about a meter. How to align the edges. On one side of the workpiece, weld a round bottom cut from a steel sheet. Here you can immediately attach the reinforcing legs.

2. Make an air distributor:

• Cut out a circle from sheet steel, the diameter of which is 20 mm less than the inner diameter of the body.
• Drill a 20mm hole in the center.
• On one side, weld the impeller. The blades must be made of sheet metal up to 50 mm wide. This is the bottom of the distributor.
• In the center of the upper side, weld a pipe for blowing Æ60 mm. Its length should be the same as the boiler itself.
• Attach a damper to the top of the pipe, which regulates the air supply.

3. In the lower part of the body, a square opening is cut out with a grinder, through which it is convenient to clean out the ash. Then the hinges are welded and the door with a latch is hung.

4. A round hole is cut out in the upper part of the casing closer to the edge. A threaded coupling is welded to it, on which a Æ100-150 chimney is fixed. A section up to 500 mm long must be located strictly horizontally. Further, the pipe passes through a heat exchanger made in the form of a storage tank.

5. From sheet metal, you need to make a cover with a hole in the middle. A distributor pipe will pass through it. To ensure that the lid fits snugly against the combustion chamber and does not allow smoke to pass through, an asbestos cord seal is laid along the cut diameter.

Since the equipment does not run on gas, but on wood, it can also be installed independently.

1. All do-it-yourself long-burning boilers are heavy. When loaded with firewood, the structure becomes much heavier. Therefore, under it you need a strong and even foundation. The installation manual recommends casting with reinforced concrete mixed with crushed stone or rubble. Alternatively, you can lay out a brick base.

2. The outer walls of the housing in the area of ​​the combustion chamber are very hot. Even if there is a water jacket around the firebox, this does not protect the surfaces from overheating. As a rule, all home-made long-burning boilers have a single casing. Therefore, the minimum distance to the nearest wall should be 50 cm.

3. If the room is finished with combustible materials, a protective surface should be built from galvanized sheets with an asbestos lining. You can also lay down brickwork.

4. The space 25-30 cm wide between the ceiling and the chimney is filled with stone wool and sewn up with galvanization with an asbestos layer. All these actions significantly increase the overall cost of a long-burning boiler, but they guarantee fire safety.