Thermal valves for heating system radiators. With manual adjustment. Installing a temperature controller on a heating radiator

You can regulate the rate of flow of coolant into the heater (battery or radiator) using a valve that is installed in front of it. This can provide not only comfort, but also provide a certain level of protection when emergency, at which it is necessary to disconnect a part of the pipeline with a heating radiator.

For this function, you can consider installing the following shut-off and control valves:

ball valve;
cone valve;
automatic thermostat.

Adjustment with a ball valve is not very effective, because it is designed for only two modes of operation: open and closed. Intermediate positions of the valve lead to the loss of its tightness, since the solid particles contained in the coolant can damage the blocking ball.

A manual cone valve can control the temperature much more reliably. It may not be covered completely. The main thing is not to forget to return it to its original position. In any case, this type of heating temperature regulation requires constant attention.

It is most convenient to regulate the temperature in the room with the help of automatic temperature controllers, which are installed in front of the radiators. They are also called thermostats.

The design of the mechanical thermostat

Each temperature value inside corresponds to a certain pressure value of the working medium in the bellows. This pressure is compensated by a spring that regulates the stroke of the rod.

As the temperature increases, the valve cone will move towards the closing direction until the pressure of the working medium in the bellows is balanced by the force of the spring. When the temperature drops, the process will be reversed.

Advantages of modern thermostats

Modern thermostats have an ergonomic design that fits well with the interior of any room. In addition, they are convenient to regulate the temperature;

They are quite easy to install in new and existing heating systems, as these equipment are adapted to local temperature conditions. They can be operated without preventive and Maintenance during the entire service life, which is large enough;
After equipping heating radiators with thermostats, there is no need to open windows to control the temperature in the building;
The temperature range in which thermostats operate is from 5 °С to 27 °С. The temperature can be set to any value within this range and will be maintained with an accuracy of 1°C;
Temperature controllers provide uniform distribution coolant in the heating system. In this case, even heaters that are located on the periphery of the circuit will effectively heat the room;
The thermostat prevents excessive heating of the air inside the room if direct sunlight enters the room, or the temperature rises due to other factors (the presence of people or the presence of electrical appliances);
When using temperature controllers in autonomous systems, fuel savings of up to 25% are ensured, which positively affects both the cost of heating and the amount of hazardous waste after combustion.

Given the fact that the price of these devices is low, the advantages of their use are quite significant:

thermal energy is saved;
there is an improvement in the microclimate in the premises;
simplification of installation is provided;
no operating costs for thermostats.

Important! The use of thermostats is especially effective in individual residential projects - private houses and country cottages. In this case, the installation of thermostats pays for itself within one season.

In conditions central heating thermostats provide comfortable regulation of the microclimate in the room.

Important! In an apartment, the installation of thermostats must be started from those rooms where the dynamics of temperature change is significant: kitchen, living room (where the number of people changes significantly), rooms where direct sunlight enters.

The general instructions for installing such equipment are as follows. In private homes, thermostats should first be installed on the upper floors. The reason for this is as follows: the heated air rises and the temperature difference in the rooms on the lower floors and on the top fluctuates quite a lot.

From an economic point of view, it is very effective to install in a private house panel radiators with a small container with thermostats that quickly respond to the opening and closing of thermostatic valves.

Temperature controllers are subject to certification and quality products must have a certificate of quality or conformity. There are two types of thermostats on the market today: gas and liquid. The service life of such equipment is about 20 years.

Liquid or gas filled thermostats

Gas-filled thermostats respond faster to changes in indoor temperature. Liquid temperature controllers respond more accurately and better to pressure changes inside the corrugated cylinder and transmit it to the actuator in a better quality.

Advantages of gas-filled thermostats

The technical solution, in which the thermostat is filled with gas, has several serious advantages:

Gas condensation takes place in the coolest part of the instrument, the furthest from the valve body. For this reason, the response will be the fastest, since its operation will not depend on the temperature of the water;
This type of thermostat responds well to room temperature changes. This allows efficient heat transfer.

Video with a short overview of thermostats:

conclusions

Thermoregulators are especially effective when installed in individual heating systems, as they, in addition to increasing comfort, provide a significant economic effect.

Thermostats can not be installed in all rooms at once, but start with those where the temperature changes the most. In this case, the use of thermostats will give the best result.

Any heating system is created on the basis of heat engineering calculations. The most unfavorable conditions under which the system will cope with its intended purpose are taken into account. But with an increase in temperature, thermal energy is wasted, remaining unclaimed. To make living conditions more comfortable, and at the same time save on heating, you can make adjustments to the heating system. For this, so-called thermostats for heating radiators are used.

Such devices are designed to adjust the air temperature in the room by changing the flow of coolant at the inlet to the heating radiator. They only allow you to adjust the temperature, but cannot increase the heat transfer of the heating battery. The thermostat is also not suitable for cast iron radiator, since cast iron has a large thermal inertia. In this case, the device will not be able to fully regulate the room temperature.

The temperature regulator on the heating radiator in houses with autonomous heating will help save up to 25% of energy resources and usually pays for itself in the first year of operation. In houses with centralized system heating thermostats rationally used in conjunction with heat meters, which leads to significant savings on utility bills.

If the electric heating battery with a thermostat is a single unit, then the device for a water heating radiator is installed separately.

Structurally, the thermostat consists of 2 elements:

Valve. V metal case there are a locking mechanism: stem, seat and cone (poppet valve, spool). The locking mechanism, lowering or rising, changes the pressure of the coolant.
Thermal head, which controls the operation of the valve. It consists of a bellows filled with gas or liquid, as well as a regulator. The working substance of the bellows reacts to temperature changes by changing its volume, which thereby affects the position of the regulator. The bellows is a very durable element that can withstand repeated compression and expansion cycles.

When the substance in the bellows is heated, it expands in volume. There is pressure on the piston, which shifts the locking mechanism. The cone of the mechanism partially or completely blocks the flow of the coolant. When the working medium in the bellows is cooled, the cone returns to former place, reopening access to the coolant. This maintains a constant temperature in the room.

Benefits of using thermostats

The thermostat installed on the heating radiator has the following advantages:

It becomes possible to change the temperature in each separate room, making it the most comfortable;
Savings achieved Money by reducing the supply of coolant to the house;
The price for a thermostat for a heating radiator is not too high, so anyone can purchase several of these devices for their home;
The design of the devices is made in such a way as to successfully fit into any interior of the room;
The regulator is able to accurately maintain the set temperature. The error is about 1 degree;
Installation and operation of the device is not difficult.

Read also: and their features.

Kinds

Type of thermostat

Household thermostats differ in their locking and regulating elements. They are of the following types:

1. Manual. It includes 2 types of devices:

2. Mechanical. On the body of the device there is a temperature scale, according to which you can set the desired temperature in the room. The device will automatically support it.

3. Electronic. This is a more complex and expensive device. Has a lot of settings. In addition to setting the temperature, such a device makes it possible to set the temperature change in the room according to the schedule (hours, days of the week).

Type of temperature agent in bellows

Depending on the substance in the bellows, thermal heads can be:

liquid. Such devices are the most common, have a lower cost.
Gas. They allow you to respond more quickly and accurately to changes in pressure inside the device. Quite expensive and popular devices are manufactured by Danfoss, which is famous for the quality of its equipment. Danfoss thermostats for heating radiators can serve more than 20 years without any complaints.

Number of pipes in the system

Each individual heating system can have different amount pipes. Therefore, the thermal valve for each of these systems has its own design features:

For single pipe systems . Such fittings have a wider cross section, since in single-pipe systems big values hydraulic resistance. Indicated by the letter "G"
For two-pipe systems . The device has a narrow body. It allows significant indicators of coolant pressure. Designated by the letters "D" and "N". Also, in some versions, the use of devices with the designation "G" is allowed.

Pipe connection method

Radiator thermostats have a different design, which is selected depending on the location of the heating pipe approach:

Straight valves. They are installed in cases where the pipe to the radiator comes from the side.
Angle valves. It is better to put them at the bottom pipe supply.

The material of the thermostat

Temperature controllers for modern heating radiators are made of materials with increased resistance to corrosion:

Brass. Some models have protective covering from nickel.
Bronze. Often the metal is protected by chromium plating or nickel plating.
Stainless steel. This is perhaps the best option but also the most expensive.

Temperature controller sensor type

1. built-in. Installed on heating appliances, to which there is free access and when it is possible to install the temperature controller on the radiator in the correct position (horizontal).

2. Remote. This type of sensor is mounted in the following cases:

the radiator is in a box, niche or curtained;
access to the temperature sensor is difficult;
the device is located at a distance of less than 10 cm from a wide window sill;
the thermal valve is mounted vertically on the radiator.

Features of choosing a thermostat

When choosing a thermostat for heating batteries, attention should be paid to the following aspects:

The diameter of the valve must exactly match the diameter of the pipe.
RTD-G instruments are used in single-pipe systems as well as in two-pipe systems apartment buildings and in private houses where circulation pumps are not installed.
The RTD-N (-D) units are suitable for two-pipe systems in new buildings, as well as in private houses that have circulation pumps.
The device must be certified, and its warranty period must be at least 3 years.
Pay attention to the pipe that brings the coolant to the radiator. Depending on the direction of its approach, you need to choose a regulator - straight or angular.
Consider the type of connecting nuts with which the device will be attached to the radiator. Nuts can be union or crimp.

Tip: Give preference when buying products from well-known manufacturers. For example, Danfoss, Caleffi, Far, Salus Controls, Oventrop have proven themselves well. Their products are durable and accurate.

Installation and configuration of the thermostat

If the thermostat is installed correctly on the heating radiator, the device will immediately start working correctly.

Before installation

Before starting the installation, pay attention to the following important points that will help you avoid elementary errors in installing the thermostat:

Note: It is advisable to install a ball valve in front of the thermal valve. It will allow you to change the valve or radiator if necessary, and also protect the thermostat from excessive load, which it may be subjected to when using it as a shut-off valve when replacing the radiator.

Installing a thermostat

Consider the sequence of actions when installing a thermal control device:

The water from the heating system must be drained, and the water riser must be closed.
Screw the valve to the radiator inlet, setting it in a horizontal position.
Connect the thermostat to the supply line.
Open the coolant supply and fill the system with heated water.
Check the tightness of all connections. Any leakage of the coolant must be excluded. If there are any, tighten the connections.
If necessary, the valve is preset. To do this, the retaining ring is pulled, and then the mark is aligned with the desired division. After that, the ring is locked.
A thermal head is installed on the valve. It can either snap on or be fixed with a union nut.

Setting the thermostat

Important: During the setup process, protect the room from drafts that confuse the sensor.

After the thermostat for the heating radiator has been installed, it must be adjusted so that the most comfortable temperature for people is created in the room. This is done for a mechanical device in the following order:

Close all windows and doors, and turn off the air conditioning and ventilation system.
There should be an ordinary thermometer in the room.
Turning the thermal head all the way to the left, we completely open the coolant supply valve. This position corresponds to the maximum heat transfer of the radiator.
After a few minutes, when the room warms up by 5-7 degrees, it is necessary to completely shut off the radiator. To do this, the valve is turned to the right until it stops.
The temperature will start to drop gradually. When the most comfortable conditions are reached, the valve should be gradually opened.
The valve opens until the noise of the coolant is clearly audible. This will be the position of the valve with the most comfortable temperature.
The valve is left in this position.
If there is a need to change the temperature, this can easily be done with the thermal head regulator.

Electronic thermostats do not need to be adjusted. It is enough to set the desired temperature in the room, and the device itself will adjust the pressure of the coolant.

The process of installing the valve in the heating system is quite simple. You can easily do all the work yourself. Moreover, the thermostat can be installed both on a new and on an already operated system.

Keeping the temperature in the room at the same level is very difficult. And this is especially true for city apartments with a centralized type of heating. Here, little depends on the residents. But the adjustment of heating radiators is still possible. To do this, there are special devices - thermostats. Consider what these devices are and how to install them.

This device is needed if the room temperature needs to be lowered. As a rule, this applies to the upper floors of city houses, where the heating system is equipped with top water supply and vertical wiring. Of course, the unit is used not only in high-rise buildings. Adjustment of heating radiators in a private house is also required quite often. By installing a thermostat on the heater, you can easily set the desired temperature. The error is very small and is only one degree.

It must be remembered that thermostats are not used to increase heat transfer. They can only lower it, but not make it higher. If the heating radiator does not heat, install other devices - electric heaters. Their principle of operation, in general, as well as the purpose, differs from temperature controllers. They are used quite often, both in the private sector and in city apartments. Their main purpose is to heat the liquid. Therefore, if it is cold at home, then it makes sense to install heating elements to increase the heating efficiency. You can mount them on all types of batteries, including cast iron ones.

Thus, electric heaters for heating with a thermostat are set when it is necessary to increase heat transfer, and thermostats - when to lower it. Thermostatic regulators can be used with any type of battery except cast iron. This is due to the fact that cast iron products have a sufficiently large thermal inertia. And the thermostats in this case will be simply useless.

What is the principle of operation of a thermostat?

Consider which temperature controller on the heating radiator has the principle of operation in more detail. The device is a sealed chamber called a bellows. It is filled with a special working environment. When the temperature rises, the coolant expands and the chamber straightens. After that, the shut-off valve blocks the path to the coolant in the battery section. As a result, the temperature in the room decreases. When the temperature drops, the effect is completely opposite: the thermal head shrinks, the valve opens, and water enters the radiator again.

The design of the temperature controller and its classification

According to the way the signal arrives at thermostatic element thermostats for heating radiators can be different. So the signal can come from the air inside or outside the room, from the coolant. Depending on the design features of the thermostat, battery regulators can be direct-acting or electrically controlled. The first option is installed in front of the radiator. The thermostat receives a signal about a change in the temperature level from the coolant.

Regulators of the second type are divided into the following subspecies:

those that can control either the heating of the boiler or the pump;
those that can send a signal to the valves installed in front of the battery.

What are the advantages of installing thermostats?

By installing a heating temperature controller on a radiator, it will be possible to control the temperature level not throughout the room, but directly at the installation site. Thus, it becomes possible to create an optimal and more uniform temperature fund in the apartment. Also, adjusting the temperature of heating radiators eliminates the possibility of overheating of the air in the house, which is most typical for apartments located on the sunny side.

For each room, you can choose your own temperature control scheme.

For example, the room is practically not used. In this case, you can reduce the water consumption in the radiators to a minimum. Among other advantages, it can be noted that it is not difficult to buy a thermostat for a heating radiator. The units are sold in all specialized stores and have a very reasonable cost. In addition, installation is simple.

Features of mounting the thermostat

Before you install the device, you need to determine its location. The functioning of the thermostat depends on a number of factors. For example, the temperature regime outside the room, air circulation in the building. The presence of direct sunlight is also of no small importance. Extraneous sources of heat (cold) in the apartment are also taken into account.

If the house is private, then most often the temperature controller for the heating radiator is located on the top floor.

This is due to the fact that heated air accumulates at the top: the temperature difference at the lower and upper levels of the room will be significant. Mount the devices horizontally pipes near the point of entry into heating equipment. In city apartments, it is better to first install the thermostat where temperature fluctuations are most noticeable. These can be: a room exposed to direct sunlight, a kitchen.

Naturally, before installing the regulator, it must be purchased. You can either buy it in a store or order it online. For a thermostat for a heating radiator, the price depends on the type of connection and the manufacturer. On average, the cost of the device starts from 1000 rubles. I must say that the price range is quite wide. When the unit is purchased, and its location is selected, you can proceed with the installation.

The thermostat is installed on the heating radiator according to a certain algorithm:

As you can see, installing a regulator on a heating radiator is easy. But if, then when connecting a thermostatic device, it will be necessary to replace the heater connection diagram. To this end, to connect the direct and reverse connections of the structure, it is necessary to install a jumper - a bypass. This element allows the coolant to circulate if it is necessary to shut off the heating with a temperature controller.

To complete the circuit, you will need to remove the device. The valves must first be closed. If the system is two-pipe, then it is possible to control the flow of water into the radiator. But in this case, it is necessary to put the radiator thermostat on the upper connection.

Thus, we can conclude that today special electric heaters and thermostats are used to regulate the temperature in the room. The first ones are used if it is necessary to increase the heat transfer of heaters, and the second ones - to reduce the temperature and make the heating more uniform. Temperature controllers can be purchased at any store for a very reasonable price. Installing them is easy and it is quite possible to carry out the installation on your own.

Content

The question of how to install a thermostat on a battery is of interest to both people living in apartment buildings and owners of private housing with an autonomous heating system. The temperature control device allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises, and in the second case, it also saves energy costs.

It makes sense to put the thermostat on batteries of any type, with the exception of cast iron ones - they are characterized by high thermal inertia, which makes the adjustment ineffective.

Thermostat for heating battery

Adjustment Features

The heating of the radiator occurs due to the circulation of the liquid heated heating boiler. The heat carrier gives a significant part of the thermal energy to the heating device, which provides heating of the air in the room.

The less hot liquid passes through the battery per unit time, the weaker it will heat up. The principle of quantitative adjustment is the basis for the functioning of the thermostat. Before the invention of the thermostatic valve, a plumbing valve was used for this purpose.

Note! The ball valve is designed to work in only two positions - fully open and fully closed. When using a ball valve as a valve to regulate the flow of coolant, it will quickly fail.

The principle of operation of a modern thermostatic valve is the same as that of a valve - a special device in the housing limits or completely blocks the flow of the coolant. The main difference lies in the principles of control - in the case of using a plumbing valve, the temperature of the batteries has to be adjusted by turning the knob, while the thermostat for a heating radiator works without human intervention, it is enough to install and configure it correctly.

Thermostat design

The thermostat is a valve equipped with a thermal head that controls its operation.

The valves differ in the design of the body, depending on the characteristics of the installation site, the valve is used:

standard straight;
angular horizontal;
angular vertical;
angular, in which the head and nozzles are located along three perpendicular axes (left and right versions).

Note! Valves for a one-pipe heating system (marked with the letter G) are characterized by increased throughput, because of which their body has a larger volume. They are also suitable for two-pipe systems with natural circulation. If the system is equipped with a pump for forced circulation of the coolant, valves marked with the letters N or D are required, they are designed for high pressure.

The corrosion resistant alloy body has a valve seat that can be fully closed by the poppet valve when it is fully lowered. When the height of the plate is changed, the amount of fluid passing through the valve per unit time changes.

Temperature controller device

The poppet is mounted on a stem, which is actuated by a pusher pin, its upper part protrudes from the valve body. As standard, the pin is covered with a cap. It is removed and the selected valve control mechanism is installed.

Important! It is recommended to install valves made of brass, stainless steel, bronze. Silumin is fragile and unreliable. When choosing a product, also pay attention to the mounting dimensions of the nozzles - they must correspond to the parameters of the pipeline.

Choice of control mechanism

The thermostat for radiators must be equipped with a suitable control mechanism:

locking handle;
bellows type thermal head;
servo head;
electronic thermal head.

Locking handle

It turns the thermostat into a regular valve. The handle is usually used when it is necessary to securely close the valve for carrying out repair work or to replace the heating device. It can be considered as a removable auxiliary attribute.

Thermo head with bellows

Looking at the disassembled thermostat, you can see a bellows - an elastic container filled with a liquid or gas with high thermal sensitivity. If the air temperature in the area of the thermal head rises, the bellows expands and presses on the pusher pin, causing the poppet valve to move down. When the bellows is cooled, the process is reversed. The thermostat of this type installed on the radiator is non-volatile, it is enough to set it once, and the battery heating level will be maintained automatically with a fairly high accuracy.

Servo Head

Valve stem moves up or down miniature Electrical engine, which receives the appropriate signals from the electronic control unit. Such a system allows for very precise control of the heating of the coolant. The installation requires cabling for motor power and control signals. The device is suitable for use as part of the "smart home" complex.

Electronic thermal head

The heater, equipped with an electronic thermal head, changes the heating level of the room depending on the set program. For example, work during the day in an economical mode and heat the air to the desired values by the arrival of the owners of the house from work. Such a thermal head with an electronic display works autonomously, batteries provide power.

Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator

Consider how to mount and configure a bellows thermal head - this is the most popular option due to its affordable cost.

Most thermal valves in the upper part have a thread for the M30x15 nut - it is with its help that an automatic mechanical thermal head is installed. Its fixed part is attached to the valve body, and the upper part rotates freely around its axis. Holes are provided in the plastic head to allow air to enter the bellows, causing it to contract or expand.

Installed thermostat

The installation of the thermal valve is carried out at the stage of connecting the heating radiator to the pipeline. It is placed on the supply pipe, fixed with an “American” adapter - such a connection is easy to disassemble if necessary. The direction of the coolant flow is indicated on the body of the device - this must be taken into account. Before installation, study the product passport - if the thermal valve does not have the function of completely blocking the flow, a ball valve must be installed on the supply pipe before it.

Note! The thermal head must be located horizontally, otherwise the heated air rising from the radiator will constantly affect the bellows.

The valve is connected to the battery with a free pipe. Then the protective cap is removed from the thermal valve and the bellows thermal head is installed by tightening the corresponding nut with a spanner wrench. If the model provides for snap-in installation, the head must be turned to the “max” position, attached and pressed until it clicks.

Correct position of the thermal head

After installation, adjustment is carried out. The position of the stem, pusher pin and bellows relative to the body of the thermal valve can be changed by rotating the moving part of the head. It has a temperature scale and a mark for reference, which makes it possible to set the required temperature to the nearest degree. Suitable mode battery life is determined in practice.

Important! Thermal head manufacturers offer various options presetting - using pins or a special key, immediately after installation, the permissible temperature range of the radiator is set. This avoids the problems associated with overheating of the premises or the complete cooling of the system as a result of the intervention of small children or due to accidental contact with the moving part of the thermal head.

Exists different variants execution of the thermal head.
If the radiator is blocked by thick curtains, furniture or structures, when installing the regulator, you can use a thermal head with a remote sensor-probe. The sensor, connected to the bellows by a capillary tube, is placed up to 2 meters from the battery.

The thermostat for the heating battery can also be equipped with a remote control panel that can be mounted in any convenient location. This model is equipped with two bellows (on the valve and in the control panel) connected by a capillary tube.

Installation of a thermostat is not difficult to do on your own when it comes to an autonomous heating system. In a house with central heating, this is possible in a situation where a ball valve is installed on the supply pipe after the bypass. Otherwise, it is required to call specialists and agree on a temporary shutdown of the coolant supply through the riser.

In a well-planned, well-installed and well-adjusted heating system, everything should work so that even on the most unfavorable weather days, the generated heat would be sufficient to maintain an optimal microclimate in the premises, but at the same time, thermal energy would not be wasted when needed. decreases in its quantity. It is bewildering the bragging of some hosts who say that they have so much good heating that they even in the most very coldy do not close the windows - it is so hot in the rooms. Meanwhile, this is a typical example of absolutely no effective use energy (and ultimately - cash), and there is certainly nothing to brag about. And if we add to this the drafts walking around the rooms, which are not particularly beneficial for health, the picture turns out to be completely bleak.

The problem is solved quite simply - you need to install a thermostat for a heating radiator. This very compact and, in principle, inexpensive device will help maintain the set temperature in the room, regardless of the weather outside and the time of day, and such adjustment will be carried out automatically, without constant human intervention. Any owner who has basic skills in plumbing installation should be able to install a thermostat. Low costs, a couple of hours of work - and a pleasant microclimate sets in in your house, the countdown of the saved funds for energy carriers begins.

When designing a heating system, starting from a boiler and ending with heat exchange devices (radiators or convectors), specialists proceed from a number of evaluation criteria that take into account the specifics of the construction region, the location of the building on the ground, the nuances of its design, the layout of both the entire house and each of premises separately. The result of such calculations is the value of the thermal power of the boiler and the layout of the radiators in the rooms.

Try to do the calculations yourself

Like thermotechnical calculations can be carried out on its own, according to a somewhat simplified, but very accurate algorithm. The procedure for carrying out calculations and are placed in the appendix to this publication.

It should be understood correctly - these calculations give a result with a fair operational margin, that is, calculated for the most unfavorable conditions, for the lowest temperatures outside the window.

But think for yourself, how long are the "Epiphany frosts" on the street? - usually the peak of winter cold falls on a ten-day week - another. The rest of the time it is much warmer, and often in winter it comes to outright thaws. An even greater contrast between the calculated heat output and the actual demand in it is shown by the “off-season periods” - the end of autumn and the beginning of spring.

Further, even during the day, at night and daytime, the amplitude of temperature differences can be measured in a dozen or more degrees. The Sun should not be discounted either. Although it is considered “cold” in winter, its rays in south-facing rooms on a clear day can make very tangible adjustments to the microclimate of the room - it can get too hot in it. The windows that are wide open for this reason do not solve the problem, but rather bring more negative than good.

The existing central heating systems are characterized by great inertia, and with all the desire, they are simply not able to respond flexibly to changes in such current conditions. In addition, in old city houses, these systems were once designed according to the standards in force at that time. It means that monotonous radiators were installed, no one dared to think about any, except for standard wooden, window frames. Modern life I've made some adjustments here as well. Very often, homeowners change old batteries for improved appliances with more significant heat dissipation. Windows with double-glazed windows are installed en masse, which, along with the reduction of heat losses, simultaneously "clogs" the premises, blocking the natural ways of air from outside. All this also leads to frequent redundancy of heat supply to the rooms.

So, you have to take the issue of thermoregulation into your own hands.

It is somewhat easier in this regard for owners of private houses with an autonomous heating system - it is much easier to respond to changes in external parameters, especially if modern equipment equipped with appropriate automation. But their problem may lie in a different plane.

So, for example, in a room on the north side of the building, daily temperature fluctuations may not be felt at all, unlike the south. In some rooms, the owners prefer to set some kind of individual mode, for example, cooler in the bedroom, warmer in the nursery. Separate utility rooms, for example, food storage, do not need much heating at all, and it is generally desirable to transfer temporarily unused rooms to the minimum heat consumption in order to save money.

In any of the situations shown, it is desirable to have some kind of device that would maintain a certain stable temperature in a specific room, regardless of changing conditions. Obviously, he must "manage" the operation of heat exchange devices, making the necessary adjustments in the "real time" mode to the output thermal power. It is this role that the thermostats for the heating radiator will perform.

On what principle is the operation of a thermostat for a heating radiator based?

The fluid that circulates through the circuits of heating systems (in most cases water is used for this) is not in vain given the name "coolant" - this term almost unambiguously describes its function. Having a high heat capacity, the liquid is able to accumulate the thermal potential transferred to it in the boiler equipment and transfer it to heat exchange points - radiators or convectors. And the amount of heat carried by water depends on the temperature of its heating and the volume flowing per unit time through the heat exchange device.

It suggests quite obvious solutions for adjusting the heating level of heating batteries.

So, for example, you can vary the temperature of the coolant - this is called a quality adjustment. There are similar systems, but they are more expensive, more difficult to install, and therefore the consumer often makes a choice not in their favor. As a rule, in such schemes, the principle of mixing the cooled coolant from the return flow back into the supply flow is implemented.

By the way, changing the heating temperature on the boiler itself is also a qualitative adjustment, but it will initially concern all heat exchange devices, and in this case we are more interested in the possibility of fine settings on a specific battery.

The second option is to change the volume of coolant flowing through the radiator, that is, to regulate the intensity of its flow. This method is called quantitative adjustment. It is much easier to organize it, and it was she who formed the basis of the most popular thermostatic regulators for radiators.

It should not be assumed that such an adjustment is some kind of new development - in the same way, you daily quantitatively adjust the flow of water by turning the flywheel faucet. Yes, and in heating systems, the principle of such control of the heating of radiators has been used for a very long time. Proof of this - antique cast-iron batteries, a hundred or more years old - as a rule, on each of them you can see a characteristic tap for changing the intensity of water flow through the radiator.

By the way, this method of adjustment is often used by the owners of houses and apartments at the present time. Without acquiring a seemingly expensive, automatic thermostat, they install a conventional tap at the battery inlet, with which they change the intensity of the coolant flow. Well, this can also be considered a solution to the problem, but only all the adjustments will have to be done by yourself, that is, there is no need to talk about any flexibility of the room heating system - everything will depend on the speed of the manual changes made.

By the way, it would be appropriate to make one important remark. If for some reason it seems to the owners that such a method of controlling the heating temperature is quite enough for them, then, according to at least, you need to install a quality faucet. So, many people use ball valves for this, which are recommended to be installed at the inlet and outlet. It should be correctly understood that the function of these shut-off devices is the complete disconnection of the battery in cases where it must be temporarily taken out of operation, for example, for repair work or replacement. But the design of ball valves itself does not provide for intermediate positions necessary for fine adjustment– the coolant flow will very quickly “eat up” either the spherical valve itself or the polymer seat-seal surrounding it.

And if a decision has already been made to save money and limit ourselves to installing a conventional plumbing faucet for adjustment, then install a valve. It will last longer, and the accuracy of setting the coolant flow passing through it will be much higher. By the way, most thermostatic devices operate on the principle of a valve valve - with a progressively moving stem, at the end of which there is a valve.

So, the principle of quantitative adjustment can be implemented without purchasing an additional thermostat, but the convenience of this approach is extremely doubtful. The owner of the house or apartment will have to independently "monitor" the change in external parameters and timely change the position of the valve in one direction or another in order to ensure the stability of the temperature in the room. It is much more convenient to entrust this to automation, so that the device itself changes the intensity of the coolant flow through the radiator.

Compact regulators with a thermostatic head successfully cope with a similar task. They were patented in Denmark back in the fifties of the last century, and DANFOSS was the first to master their mass production. The products of this brand remain at the peak of popularity today, and are considered one of the recognized trendsetters in the field of automatic control systems for thermal equipment. By the way, two DANFOSS production lines have also been launched in Russia.

The range of such thermostats is very wide. But there are not very many fundamental differences in the models of various brands.

Automatic thermostatic device for a heating battery

Typical set of thermostat for a heating radiator

Let's first take a look at a typical set of thermostatic regulator for a heating radiator, and then consider the design of its main components.

1 - This is a metal thermal valve, the operation of which is similar to the operation of a valve valve. As a rule, for ease of installation, such a valve is immediately equipped with an “American” union nut.

2 – a protective cap that protects the adjusting part of the valve with a protruding stem in the transport position or before installing the thermal head. Very often, such a cap can also serve as an adjusting handwheel that changes the valve setting in manual mode. But this, as they say, is a “light option”, which can only be justified in extreme cases, for example, before purchasing a thermal head. In any case, such use is not regular: it is both inconvenient and not informative, and besides, it is unlikely that a plastic cap will last long in a similar role with constant adjustments.

3 - balancing valve (valve). It is placed at the outlet of the radiator, and serves to fine-tune the heat exchange device when starting the heating system. In principle, it can also serve as a locking device to shut off the radiator if it is necessary to remove it (instead of a ball valve). The adjustment of such a balancing valve is usually carried out with a special key, after which the adjustment socket is closed with a plug. By analogy with a thermal valve, it usually comes with a union nut. The balancing valve is indirectly related to the operation of a thermostatic valve, and will not be considered further in this publication.

4 - thermostatic head, that is, the main control element of the entire thermostat. It is installed on the thermal valve instead of the removed protective cap. It may vary in principle of operation and complexity.

The illustration only showed an example of a kit. But it should be correctly understood that both valves and thermal heads can differ in configuration, and, by the way, are sold separately. As a rule, manufacturers of such devices follow a single standard, that is, for example, you can first purchase a valve, and then match it with a thermal head of the required level of automation or the desired layout. All this will be discussed below.

How is the thermal valve itself arranged?

Consider a typical thermal valve device in the diagram below:

The body of the thermal valve (pos. 1) is made of metal with corrosion-resistant qualities. It can be brass (usually plated with a layer of chrome or nickel) or stainless steel. No attractive price should induce the consumer to purchase a valve made of silumin alloy - these "cheap" ones may be quite nice in appearance, long life and do not differ in reliability.

The threaded part at the inlet (pos. 2) serves to “pack” the valve with the supply pipe. For some models, instead of such a thread, a fitting is provided for connecting to the corresponding metal-plastic pipe.

At the opposite end of the valve (at the outlet) - section external thread(pos.3). It serves to screw on the “American” union nut (pos. 5) - to connect the valve to the heating radiator. The fitting (pos. 4) is screwed into the battery. It turns out detachable connection– if necessary, it is always possible to close the heat exchange device and quickly dismantle and reinstall it without resorting to complex operations. As a rule, a fitting with an "American" comes with a thermal valve. Moreover, often the fitting itself has a special internal configuration, the so-called leveling nozzle, to normalize (calm down) the coolant flow after passing through the valve.

A bushing (pos. 6) is screwed into the valve body from above, outwardly similar to the bushing of an ordinary water valve. A progressively moving rod (pos. 7) passes through it, and the necessary seals are assembled inside and a return spring is installed that holds the rod when it is not on it external influence, in the highest position.

From below, the stem is connected to a poppet valve (pos. 8), on which a nipple made of high-quality sanitary rubber (pos. 9) is installed. When the stem is lowered, the nipple begins to gradually block the clearance for the passage of the coolant flow (shown by wide pink arrows). In the lowest position, when the stem is completely lowered, the nipple fits snugly against the metal seat of the valve (pos. 10), completely burying the passage.

A protective cap is screwed onto the threaded part in the upper part of the assembly (pos. 11) in the "stowed" position, in the working position - the thermal head coupling. However, on many models such a thread is not provided, and the installation of a thermal head is assumed using special latches with latches.

A similar principle of the device is characteristic of almost all thermal valves of this purpose. But design features can still be:

So, valves can be designed for installation in one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems.

— For one-pipe systems where it is extremely important not to allow too high performance hydraulic resistance, valves with a larger body are used due to the expanded passage in the area of the valve seat - this is noticeable even visually. Such devices usually have the letter “G” in the marking (for example, RTR-G), and their regular protective cap is light gray.

- In two-pipe systems organized according to the principle of forced circulation, the requirements for hydraulic resistance are not so categorical, and the valves are more compact. For their letter marking, the symbols "N" or "D", or any combination using these letters, are usually used.

It is clear that valves can differ in connection dimensions - the range includes devices with threaded connections for ½, ¾ and 1 inch.
Depending on the specific conditions applications, valves with a completely identical control box are selected, but with a different inlet and outlet configuration. There are models with a direct flow, and there are models with a change in direction to perpendicular. It is clear that the final choice of model will depend on the planned piping to the heating radiator and on its specific type.

The illustration above shows an example of a possible mutual arrangement of the same valve part with inlet and outlet nozzles.

1 - a straight valve, such as shown in the sectional diagram above.

2 - angular vertical.

3 – angular horizontal

4 - with a triaxial arrangement of the valve itself and branch pipes. This model is available in two versions - right and left execution.

Thermal valves for two-pipe systems often have an adjusting ring to allow presetting of the maximum capacity.

This feature allows you to somewhat narrow the range of valve operation exactly within the required limits. As a result, unnecessary stress on the thermal head stem is reduced, which increases its durability, and automatic temperature adjustments are performed faster and more accurately.

Adjustment is simple - the ring is pulled up, rotated to the desired position and then lowered. Recommendations for necessary parameters the settings are necessarily applied in the product passport, and these parameters depend on the thermal power of the battery on which the valve is installed, and on the temperature regime of the heating system.

After installing the thermal head, this adjusting ring turns out to be hidden, and it no longer takes part in further temperature adjustments.

Thermal valves with the letter “D” are also equipped with a dynamic flow stabilization system (this was already mentioned in passing above). This is a special configuration of nozzles and channels that minimizes the possible pressure drop, providing a stable flow of coolant through the radiator.

Thermostat control device - thermal head

So, on any thermal valve, we see a stem protruding from it, spring-loaded in the upper position. It is through this rod that the control force will be transmitted, which leads to a change in the cross section of the passage for the coolant and, ultimately, to a change in the heating temperature of the battery. And this control force, respectively, comes from the thermal head put on the valve.

The design of thermal heads can vary quite a lot.

The simplest solution is to install an adjusting (shut-off) handwheel on the valve. In principle, this is almost exactly the same flywheel that is placed on plumbing valves or faucets.

Everything is extremely simple - the rotation of such a handle along the threads gives it a translational movement up or down, which is transmitted to the valve stem. No automation - all installations are carried out exclusively by hand.

It is possible to change the heating level of the radiator, but it will no longer be possible to achieve temperature stability in the room, that is, in fact, it would be wrong to call such a nozzle a thermal head. And manufacturers usually present it only as locking device. For example, it is required to carry out dismantling or other actions with the battery for which it is necessary to disconnect it from the circuit. To do this, the thermal head is removed, such a handle is placed, the valve is securely closed - and further operations can be performed. This, by the way, gives one more "preference" - you can not put shut-off ball valves in front of the radiator (although they are strongly recommended). That is, the presence of such a handle “just in case” can only be welcomed, but considering it as an adjustment mechanism is the ultimate simplification of the radiator control circuit.

Among the most popular devices are thermal heads, inside of which there is a so-called bellows, which reacts to changes in external temperature by increasing or decreasing its volume.

These changes in "geometry" are transmitted to the pusher, from it - to the valve stem. Thus, the change in the cross section of the channel for the passage of the coolant is performed automatically. Below, the device of the bellows head will be discussed in more detail.

Finally, the thermal head may have a built-in servo drive that provides translational movement of the stem pusher up and down. The control voltage to the drive is generated in an electronic remote control unit that monitors the temperature in the room and changes in external parameters.

Such devices are used in complex automated systems climate control, usually managing the maintenance of a comfortable microclimate in all areas of the house. Due to this complexity, they have not gained wide application - for normal adjustment, much simpler and inexpensive bellows heads are sufficient.

The device and principle of operation of the bellows thermal head

Someone. at first glance, the device of such a device may seem tricky, but in reality it is a very simple and effective automation scheme, which, moreover, does not need power at all.

Everyone knows the property of materials to expand when heated and decrease in volume when the temperature decreases. It is this principle of thermodynamics that is the basis for the operation of such devices. Let's look at the diagram:

An angle thermal valve is shown at the bottom of the diagram, and we have already considered its device, so we will not return to this.

A thermal head is installed on the thermal valve - in this case, it is used for this union nut M30 (pos.1). There may be other mating options, for example, latches or special adapters, but it is this threaded one that is most common.

The thermal head can be conditionally divided into two sections. The fixed part is attached to the thermal valve and is the base, around the central axis of which the movable block (pos. 2) rotates, usually made of impact-resistant plastic. Channels (slotted or otherwise) are provided on the body of this rotary unit - this is necessary to ensure contact between the air in the room and the bellows element.

The bellows itself (pos. 3) can be considered the main element of this scheme. This is a hermetically sealed reservoir filled with a substance (agent) that is sensitive to temperature changes, that is, it has a noticeable volumetric expansion when heated. The agent may be liquid or gaseous.

The bellows body has the ability to change its volume - most often this is achieved by the presence of corrugated walls (pos. 4). And the work of the thermal head is based on this.

When the room temperature rises, the bellows expands, transferring force to the piston (pos. 5), from it to the pusher, and then to the valve stem, which, of course, are located coaxially after the installation of the thermal head. The movement of the rod narrows the clearance for the coolant or even completely blocks the flow of fluid. The temperature in the room has dropped - the bellows has decreased in volume - the spring-loaded valve stem moves up, slightly opening the channel for the coolant flow through the radiator.

The movable part of the thermal head is combined with a fixed base by a threaded connection (pos.6). This means that during rotation, the distance along the center line from the head pusher to the thermovalve stem changes. This allows you to set the required temperature values at which the thermostatic control will work. And for visual control of the adjustment, the thermal head is equipped with a scale (pos. 7) with one or another graduation (on the rotating part) and a fixed pointer (pos. 8). This makes it possible to very accurately set the desired temperature level in the room.

This is the basic, most commonly used scheme. But some design features of bellows thermal heads are also possible.

So, sometimes it is better to control temperature indicators not directly at the heating radiator, but at some distance from it. In this case, you can use a thermal head with an external sensor, which is connected to the bellows by a thin capillary tube, the standard length of which reaches two meters.

Another option is when the location of the radiator itself is such that it becomes difficult or even simply impossible to change the settings of the thermal head. It's okay - there is a solution for this situation.

You can install a kit in which the thermal head does not have any controls - it only performs the function of a drive. To set the required values and to control the temperature in the room, the set includes an external unit connected to the head with the same capillary tube. The block can be placed on the wall in any convenient place within the length of the capillary. It is clear that in such a system there are already two bellows - one control, located in the remote block, and the second - "power", that is, transmitting mechanical force to the thermovalve stem.

Thermal heads with electronic control

Recently, more and more often you can find thermostats for radiators on sale, which stand out sharply against the general background by the presence of a digital display and push-button control. If you look at it, then only the thermal head itself is electronic here, and it is docked with the same standard mechanical thermal valve.

Here, too, a wide variety is possible. Some electronic heads, simpler, combine mechanical and push-button control, allow only presetting one current temperature stabilization mode in the room. Others are also equipped with a programming function, that is, the owners can plan the operation of radiators by time of day and by day of the week. This is especially convenient if the heating system works offline (gives considerable savings on energy), or if there are heat meters in a city apartment - you will have to pay only for the consumed energy. For example, it does not make much sense to maintain a temperature of +20 degrees during the working day, when there are no tenants in the apartment - it can only be “adjusted” to the arrival of the owners home. You can reduce the heat even at night - in a cool atmosphere, you sleep much better. Well, by the "morning wake-up" automation will do its job - there will be optimum temperature. For weekends - to provide specific modes of operation.

In addition, such thermal heads often carry special settings in their memory, the name of which speaks for itself - “freeze protection”, “holiday”, “economy”, etc. Switching the room heating system to this mode is just a matter of pressing the corresponding button.

You can go even further - to combine the management of all heating radiators in a single "center", to which everything is subordinated climatic equipment in the House. For this innovative approach, special thermal heads are also produced, equipped with a wireless communication system with a control unit.

It is clear that not everyone can afford such a luxury. Who knows, it is possible that in five years such a system will become an accessible routine. In the meantime, at least at first, it makes sense to install a conventional bellows thermal head. You just need to choose the right one to get started.

What criteria are followed when choosing a thermostat for a heating battery?

When choosing the best model for your heating radiator, you should take into account the following:

It is not necessary to purchase ready kit. If you can simply choose a thermal valve and a thermal head separately according to the cost criteria, you can do so. In addition, there are situations when buying a complete set at once seems too expensive. This means that it makes sense to first install a thermal valve and manage it manually, and from the next salary, already purchase an automatic thermal head.
It has already been mentioned above that the design of the valve must correspond to the type of heating system. Among the assortment presented in stores, most valves are designed for two-pipe systems, but if you have a single-pipe system, then such a replacement is unacceptable! Will have to search...
Going to the store for a thermostat, the owner should already have a clear idea of how he has connected to the radiator, what pipe diameter is used, and where it is planned to install the thermal valve. It has already been shown above that the configuration of the product depends on this. Important - the regulator should only be installed on the supply pipe.

Moreover, there are certain requirements for the location of the thermal head itself. If you put it vertically, then the bellows will fall into the flow of warm air rising from the pipe, and the bellows will not work correctly.

It is clear that this requirement does not apply to thermal heads with a remote sensor or an external control unit.

The dimensions of the threaded connection of the thermal valve depend on the diameter of the supply pipes.

There are a few more recommendations for choosing the location of the thermostat. So, you should not put it where direct sunlight is likely - the device will begin to "lie". The neighborhood of a large household appliances, from which it is possible thermal radiation. A device located in a constant draft zone will not work correctly. The presence of any of the listed obstacles forces you to purchase a thermostat with a remote sensor or with an external control panel.

Radiators will also require a similar approach, which, for reasons of interior design, are hidden in niches, behind thick curtains or under decorative screens, as well as convectors of a hidden location.

From the above, it is probably clear that a thermal head with automatic control is much more advantageous than a conventional valve installed on a valve. But in some cases the opposite is true. So, it does not make much sense to spend money on a bellows thermal head if you plan to install a regulator on cast iron batteries. The high heat capacity of this metal and the large mass of radiators make them excessively inertial, and the thermostatic unit is unlikely to work correctly. It is quite possible to confine yourself to installing a conventional mechanical handle on the thermal valve.
Thermal heads can be equipped with liquid or gaseous agent bellows. Which is better? It is generally accepted that gas-filled bellows have greater accuracy, increased speed of response to changes external conditions. They have one more advantage - they are not so "capricious" for the presence of any third-party heat sources. But the price for them is significantly different from the cost of heads with a liquid bellows, simply because of the increased complexity in production.

Objectively speaking, the advantages in terms of speed of response and accuracy in terms of practical application are subtle, and it is probably more profitable to buy a cheaper liquid bellows. Moreover, there is not much difference in terms of reliability and durability.

Performance characteristics include control accuracy. This includes the value of hysteresis - this is a change in the external temperature, causing a response of the automation of the device. It is clear that the lower this indicator, the more sensitive the thermostat. The temperature setting accuracy can be indicated (this is especially true for electronic components). For mechanical devices scale graduation matters. The “length” of this scale is also important, but, as a rule, for most devices it is maintained in the range from +5 ° С (anti-freeze mode) to +30 ° С. Usually, a position is also provided in which, if such a need arises, the thermal valve is completely closed.

The thermostat head, like a beautiful toy, can attract the attention of a child, and he will be tempted to twist it while there are no adults around. It is probably worth considering this possibility as well. Troubles can be avoided if you immediately purchase the so-called anti-vandal casing, which will not allow unauthorized access to the tuning flywheel.

Yes, children - sometimes an adult family member can “take the initiative” by knocking down the set settings. Therefore, some thermal heads provide for the presence of mechanical limiters for the rotation of the adjusting handwheel, within the minimum required range. At least the intervention of an amateur will not end up setting the room temperature too low or too high.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that it is unreasonable to purchase devices of this type from hand or in incomprehensible outlets. Manufacturers of thermostats (especially for thermal heads) give a guarantee for their products, but it will be valid only if there is a mark of a specialized store in the product passport, and you can only check the originality of the product there.

When buying, it is better to focus on reputable brands that have proven by practice the reliability and durability of thermostats. These include "Danfoss", "Heat control", " SALUS Controls”, “Royal Thermo”, “Oventrop”, “Caleffi”. In a word, there is a choice, and it makes no sense to give your "hard-earned money" for a completely unfamiliar trademark, the origin of which is generally unknown.

A small overview of popular models of thermal heads

The table below shows the main characteristics of several models of thermal heads that are in great demand among Russian consumers.

Model name	Brief description of the model	Approximate price level (in rubles as of June 2017)
"Oventrop Vindo TH M 30x1.5"	Thermostatic head from the category of the most affordable. Liquid bellows. Pairing with a thermal valve is a union nut M30. The range of set temperatures is from +7 to +28 degrees, a "zero position" is provided - the valve is completely closed. The maximum temperature of the coolant in the system is up to 120 ° C.	750
Royal Thermo RTE 50.030	Head with liquid (toluene) filling of the bellows. The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees (plus zero position) with a hysteresis value of only 0.55 degrees. Permissible coolant temperature - no more than 100 degrees. Connection with the valve - union nut М30×15. Five-year manufacturer's warranty.	850
Caleffi	Model with built-in bellows sensor. Pairing - direct fixation on valves of a certain series of the same brand, or the use of a special adapter (separate purchase may be required). The temperature setting range is from 7 to 28 degrees.	1100
Danfoss RTS Everis	Liquid-filled bellows head. Connection with Danfoss branded thermal valves - direct fixation, with others - through an adapter. The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees with a hysteresis value of 0.5 degrees. The functions for limiting the setting range and the set value have been well thought out. Automatic frost protection of the system at temperatures less than +8 degrees. Original external design heads.	1200
"Oventrop Uni LH M 30x1.5"	Thermostatic head with remote temperature sensor. Connecting capillary tube 2 m long. Pairing with the valve - union nut М30×15. The range of set temperatures is from 7 to 28 degrees, there is a "zero position". Possibility to limit the adjustment range by the user. The maximum temperature of the heat carrier in the system is up to 120 °С.	1600
Salus PH60	Thermal head of electronic type. Pairing with a thermal valve is a union nut М30×15. Non-volatile memory with the ability to program the operating modes for a week in all sorts of variations. Liquid-crystal display with a backlight function, with the display of real and preset parameters, the level of charge of the elements, the operability of the device. Four preset modes on different cases operation. The temperature setting range is from +5 to +40 degrees with a hysteresis of 0.5 degrees. Power supply - two AA elements. Consumption is minimal, and quality elements are usually enough for a year of operation.	3750
Caleffi 472000	Radiator thermoregulation kit - drive head and remote monitoring and control unit, with liquid bellows, connected by a capillary tube (2 m). The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees. Hysteresis - 0.6 degrees. Installation: for a special series of branded valves - direct fixation, for the rest - using an adapter purchased separately.	8500

To this must be added the cost of the thermal valve. In high-quality performance, for example, the original Danfoss valve, it can cost, depending on the specific model, another 1200÷2600 rubles.

Video: expert advice on choosing a thermostat for a heating radiator

How to independently install and configure a thermostat for a heating battery

Mounting the thermal valve and installing the head

Masters who undertake to install a thermostat on a heating radiator often charge an unreasonably high fee for this, and plus they require an “additive” for the initial adjustment of the device. But all this can be done independently, unless, of course, there are plumbing installation skills. If there is no experience, then it is probably not very reasonable to consider the installation of a thermal valve as a training session. Therefore, read the basic installation rules - it will be easier to assess your capabilities in advance.

The installation of thermostats with their subsequent configuration usually begins with top floor private house, as it raises there warm air. If the house is one-story, or the installation of the regulation system is planned in the apartment, then first of all you should pay attention to the premises, which are characterized by the greatest amplitudes of temperature fluctuations. These include the kitchen, rooms overlooking the sunny side, as well as premises where the largest number of people is usually observed.
If there are several heating radiators in the room, then installing a thermal head on each of them is an unnecessary luxury. In addition, they will even create a kind of interference with each other. It is enough to mount it on the one that is more powerful, and if they are equivalent, then on any, but better on the one where it will be more convenient to make settings.
The thermal valve is always installed only on the supply pipe, regardless of the radiator connection scheme. The direction of movement of the coolant is indicated by an arrow on the body. At the inlet, the thermal valve has a section internal thread– for connection with the supply pipe. At the outlet, a threaded fitting is provided for the union nut, which, with its own fitting, should be included in the kit. The “American” fitting is packed into the radiator, but the connection between the thermal valve and the radiator, therefore, turns out to be detachable.
Before starting installation, make sure that the coolant from the system (or in this section of the system) is drained, the pipes are empty.
The thermal head should not even be taken out of the package until the valve is completely ready. And the valve itself should be installed with a protective cap on - there is less chance of accidentally damaging the protruding stem during installation.
As already mentioned, the valve must take such a position that after installing the head, it is located horizontally. This requirement does not apply to devices with a remote temperature sensor.
There are no ready-made "recipes" for connecting the valve to the supply pipe - it all depends on the type of pipe, the proposed installation technology (through a squeegee or an additional "American" - for metal, fittings for metal-plastic, welding for polypropylene, etc.). The one who performed the plumbing installation understands what the conversation is about.
Do I need a ball valve upstream of the valve? In principle, it is possible to do without it, however, the crane is not so expensive as to be neglected. It is undesirable to consider a thermal valve as a locking device - let it work only for adjustment, without experiencing unnecessary loads. If you compare the prices of valves and taps, everything should become clear.

But "sculpt" ball valve between the valve and the radiator is completely wrong.

In the event that the radiator is included in a single-pipe heating system (or in its single-pipe section - this also happens), the thermal valve will not work correctly without interfering with other heat exchange devices if a bypass is not installed in front of the radiator.

A bypass is a jumper between the supply and return pipes. It performs several functions, and one of them is to prevent the imbalance of the entire system when the coolant flow through the radiator is limited or completely closed.

If there is no bypass, then it must be installed without fail. In this case, they are usually guided by the rule that the diameter of such a jumper should be one step smaller than the diameter of the supply pipes. The bypass must be installed up to the stopcocks so that turning off the radiator does not stop the entire system. But it is not recommended to mount a tap on the bypass itself.

Upon completion of the installation of the thermal valve, the system is filled with coolant, run circulation pump- it is required to check the quality of all created connecting nodes in order to exclude leaks during operation. In addition, attention is drawn to the place where the stem leaves the valve body - there should not be a “tear” there. If even a small leak is detected there, it means that not everything is in order with the stuffing box seal of the valve, and it makes sense to urgently replace it in the store with a serviceable one.
Valves with a setting ring are pre-installed. Optimal value determined in accordance with the recommendations specified in the product passport. The installation itself is very simple - the ring is pulled forward, which is removed from the stopper, rotated until the risk coincides with desired value, and then stops again.

And only now it is possible to finally assemble the thermostat, that is, install the head on the valve. As mentioned above, the options for fixing it may vary - but this must be specified in the product passport and taken into account even when buying. Some manufacturers practice special clamps - it is enough to push the head onto the valve body until it clicks. Another common option is to use an M30 union nut.

Before installation, the thermal head is positioned so that its scale is clearly visible. No tool is required to tighten the nut - finger force is sufficient.

Setting thermostats on heating radiators

The passport gives a decoding of the divisions of the thermal head scale - products for this purpose undergo an appropriate calibration at the factory. But laboratory conditions can be very different from real ones, so it is recommended to calibrate your own heating system and actual operating conditions. That is, to get a visual representation of the correspondence of the values on the scale with the air temperatures in the room.

This will require an ordinary thermometer - it is better to rely on its readings than on your own feelings, which, by the way, may not coincide in some way with different family members.
To set up, it is necessary to close windows and doors, that is, to prevent drafts.
The first step is to open the thermal valve completely. To do this, the head rotates counterclockwise to its end position. Encountering practically no resistance in the valve, the coolant provides maximum heating of the radiator at a given temperature regime of the heating system.
When completely open valve the air temperature in the room begins to rise rapidly. They wait until it reaches the upper threshold (enough, for example, 28 ÷ 30 degrees), and then turn the head in the opposite direction (clockwise) to transfer it to the extreme right position, at which the valve is closed.
After a while, the temperature starts to drop. Here is required increased attention Attention. When the temperature level approaches the most comfortable feeling or the intended reading of the thermometer, I begin to turn the thermal head very smoothly counterclockwise. It is necessary to catch the moment when the valve opens. This can be manifested by the appearance of a slight noise of the coolant passing through the valve and heating of the body in the area of the outlet pipe. This is the position of the thermal head and will correspond to the actual response temperature. For control, the experiment can be carried out several times - for different temperature levels, recording the thermometer readings and the corresponding scale divisions. As a result, the owners will have a clear picture, which, by the way, will be useful to check with the data of the thermal head passport. Now there is all the necessary data for the normal operation of the thermostat.

Summing up…

To summarize the information - a few words about the preferences that homeowners receive who have installed radiator thermoregulation devices.

The cost of thermostats does not look frightening, the installation also does not differ in great complexity, that is, such an optimization of the heating system will not make a big gap in the family budget. And both newly created and systems that have been in operation for a long time are quite subject to modernization - there is not much difference.
The room always maintains a stable level of comfortable temperature set by the owners, regardless of changes in external conditions.
Heat is distributed throughout the premises rationally, evenly, which is especially important for single-pipe heating systems, which are often characterized by a persistent decrease in the temperature of the coolant on the radiators as they move away from the boiler room.
The operation of thermostatic regulators of this type is simple and does not require any energy costs. On the contrary, there will be an effect of energy savings (sometimes even up to 25%), and the purchase of such devices usually pays off very quickly.

At the same time, it should be correctly understood that the operation of such thermostats is one-sided, and is always aimed only at reducing the temperature in heating radiators. It would be completely naive to believe that if there is not enough heat, the thermal head will “perform a miracle”, and the temperature in the room will rise. No, radiators must always have an operating power reserve, and the task of the valves is to take exactly as much heat as is required at the current moment.

And if the power is not enough, you will have to look for the cause and eliminate it. The options here may be different - a “weak” boiler, incorrect or poorly executed circuit wiring, erroneously calculated parameters of installed radiators, or even insufficient insulation of the house.

And since we are now talking about the correct selection of radiators by power, we offer the reader as a "bonus" a convenient program for calculating this parameter.

Appendix: Program for calculating the required power of a heating radiator

When designing a heating system and each of its elements, they proceed from the considerations that its power should be sufficient to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the premises under the most adverse conditions. In fact, the maximum indicators are either never achieved at all, or are in demand for an extremely short time. This is where the importance of thermoregulation systems manifests itself in the most obvious way - they seem to smooth out the discrepancy between the existing capabilities of radiators and the actual need for heat at the moment.

But the operational reserve, nevertheless, must be laid down.

And how to determine the required heat output of radiators? An often recommended counting technique when square meter 100 watts of heat is “assigned” to the area, which is very far from reality, since it does not take into account a lot of important nuances. Therefore, we offer our own calculation algorithm, which is implemented as an online calculator.