One of the most visited rooms in any house or apartment is the bathroom. That is why its repair must be approached with special attention and care. In this room, there are the largest temperature and humidity fluctuations, which can adversely affect general finishing. To get a cozy and functional bathroom, you should select high-quality and reliable building materials. For a rational and proper organization of bathroom renovation, it is necessary to clearly understand where to start restoration work.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and performing any actions, it is worth deciding on the type of repair. There are such types of bathroom restoration:

1. Unscheduled repairs - carried out as a result of an unforeseen emergency (flooding by neighbors or a pipe break). At the same time, you can finish with minor cosmetic actions or more global ones with the replacement of communication systems (replacement of pipes for supplying water, sewerage, updating tiles, etc.).
2. The planned repair may also differ in scale and material investments of the owner. Of course, a cosmetic finish will cost much less than a major restoration. In this case, everything depends on the technical condition of the premises and financial possibilities.

In any case, bathroom renovation requires preparation and calculation of all stages of work. To do this, you need to hire a professional estimator who can accurately calculate everything. Only after that you can negotiate with the construction team. But this is not the only option. If you have free time and minimal building knowledge, you can carry out all the restoration work yourself.

It must be understood that the payment for the work of builders is approximately 50% of the price of the building materials used. Accordingly, do-it-yourself bathroom renovation will cost at least one and a half times cheaper. It is necessary to prepare for the repair of the bathroom with all responsibility, since it will require not only a lot of knowledge in the construction industry, but also practical skills.

Preparing for a bathroom renovation begins with a study of the prices of building materials and necessary equipment. This will allow you to get a preliminary cost of all work.

Calculation of prices and costs for bathroom renovation

Almost every owner who plans to renovate a bathroom or bathroom asks a completely logical question - where to start? The best solution is the selection of building materials and budgeting. All this will allow you to find out how much each stage will cost. Building materials for a bathroom or bathroom must be selected with great care, as they must meet many requirements.

Of particular importance are the coefficients of moisture absorption and thermal expansion, since large differences in moisture and temperature are observed in this room. Not the last factor is the porosity of the material, since it affects the sanitary and hygienic safety of the entire room. Accordingly, you should not count on the purchase of very cheap materials, because otherwise you will have to carry out repeated repairs.

It is rather difficult to select the exact parameters that the materials must meet. In addition, understand huge assortment practically impossible for a non-specialist. Because of this, it is worth choosing building materials that are specially made for bathrooms or for exterior decoration. Approximate prices for the necessary components for the repair of the bathroom:

1. Floor tiles of domestic production - from 40 rubles / piece with a size (30x30), foreign collections are more expensive - from 60 rubles / piece. As a rule, European models are distinguished by the best decorative elements.
2. Wall tiles have the same cost as floor tiles.
3. Can be used for finishing porcelain stoneware, its price starts from 50 rubles / piece.
4. As consumables are glue, grout and cross patterns. This is another 50% of the cost of tiles per unit area.
5. Laminate boards - from 300 rubles / piece.
6. Self-leveling floors - from 220 rubles / 10 liters.
7. Hardwood or teak floor - from 500 rubles per square.
8. Polypropylene pipes for cold water- from 24 rubles / meter.
9. Reinforced polypropylene pipes for hot water - from 35 rubles / meter.
10. 50 mm sewer pipes - from 45 rubles.
11. Stop valves and fittings make up about 60% of the price of all pipes.

These are indicative prices for the most necessary materials when renovating a bathroom. By comparing the area of ​​the floor, walls, ceiling and the induced cost, you can approximately calculate the total cost of restoration work. When making calculations, the following must be taken into account:

1. The use of cheaper materials can lead to difficulties and delay the work.
2. A reserve of 3-5% should be made for waste and battle. For example, if your area needs 300 pieces of tiles, then it is better to buy 310 or 315 pieces.
3. Similar actions should be done when buying putty, cement, sand, silicone, etc.
4. Depending on the size of the bathroom and the degree of complexity of all restoration work, it will take from 2 weeks to 3 months. This is with the condition independent work. If you hire a team of professional builders, things will go much faster.
5. As for plumbing fixtures, their choice depends on design solution and material resources of the owner.

Adviсe

In addition, experts can give a lot of good advice in this area. So, when hiring a construction team, you should also ask about the price of finishing materials. If they are professionals in their field who have great experience in this area, they will have connections with hardware stores, where they have discounts.

One more useful advice When it comes to choosing a heated towel rail, stainless steel products are the best option in terms of price and quality. To really save water and electricity, you need to buy modern mixer with motion sensor. It turns on only when hands are raised and delivers water at a pre-set temperature. This is far from the cheapest option, but it allows you to save water consumption up to 50% and electricity up to 40%.

As you know, the bathroom is a warm room with constantly high levels of humidity, which is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and microorganisms dangerous to human life. Because of this, you should not use structures on the crate, since such niches will sooner or later become a breeding ground for infection.

Based on all the tips and recommendations above, you can choose high-quality building materials at the best price.

Bathroom renovation: where to start. Sequence of work

To spend quality repair in the bathroom for the shortest possible time and at an affordable price, it is worth carrying out all the manipulations in sequence. Step by step action plan:

• The choice of models and the number of plumbing fixtures that you plan to install.

• Creation design idea and color choice.

• Preparation of a purchase budget finishing materials.

• Preliminary preparation of the premises.

• Inspection of the condition of the floor and the choice of options for its repair.

• Floor repair: insulation, screed replacement, waterproofing.

• Laying pipes for water supply and sewerage.

• Electrical wiring.

• Wall and ceiling decoration.

• Floor finishing.

• Wall cladding, grouting, sealing corners.

• Installation of a ventilation system.

• Installation of plumbing fixtures.

This sequence of work will optimize the entire repair process and understand what needs to be done at a particular stage. We will go over each item in more detail below.

Starting a bathroom renovation

Design and plumbing

This is the very first and important stage in the renovation of the bathroom, since the design also depends on the choice of plumbing fixtures. It must be understood that not only the appearance of the room depends on the model of the sink, toilet bowl or bathroom, but also the accuracy of laying all communication systems. For example, a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, while at the same time it requires the use of perfectly smooth tiles without relief. Otherwise, stains and stains of dirt will remain on the walls. Another option to simplify pipe laying is to install a faucet on the bathtub.

It is impossible to list all the nuances and subtleties. Even in houses of the same type with the same dimensions, you can use various materials, as well as their combination, which, in the end, will bring a special appearance and a difference in costs within 20%. Because of this, it is worth carefully considering the layout and design.

It is also worth understanding that not every idea can be translated into reality in city apartments. For example, to install a mixer built into the wall, you will have to hammer bearing walls which is simply unacceptable.

Bathroom Renovation Materials

Pipes

Today, almost no one uses metal structures, since plastic products are more reliable and affordable. The most optimal option for the bathroom are polypropylene pipes. Sometimes metal-plastic analogies are used, but they are more relevant for the heating system in the house. In addition, polypropylene welds are more reliable than metal-plastic fittings. Because of this, PP pipes can be built into the wall without fear of an accident.

To supply water to the bathroom and create a sewerage system, it is necessary to use pipes made of polypropylene or PVC. Due to this, you can save the budget, simplify the installation process and get really durable structures requiring minimal maintenance.

Fittings and fittings for plastic pipes

When creating a pipe system, it is worth using special couplings, fittings for soldering and fastening polypropylene pipes to each other. It is worth noting that there are a huge number of adapters that allow you to combine different materials. So, modern plastic pipes can be securely connected to metal counterparts. When connecting to metal, it is necessary to use shut-off valves, which are soldered into plastic. All this helps to avoid system leakage.

Tile

For the bathroom, the best option for finishing material is tile, as it has excellent characteristics of resistance to humidity and temperature changes. Also unpretentious in care. It is better to use porcelain stoneware as a floor covering. This material slightly more expensive than conventional tiles and has a number of advantages. First of all, it is high strength and resistance to stress.

In addition, porcelain stoneware, even with a smooth surface, is not slippery, which significantly reduces the degree of injury.

Bathroom tiles are subject to high demands not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from a hygienic point of view. At first glance, inconspicuous dirt or specks can become a further breeding ground for bacteria and microbes. Because of this, you should not save on the quality of this building material.

Glue and tools

When starting to lay tiles in the bathroom, you must use a slow drying adhesive - 12-24 hours. This will allow timely elimination of small flaws during self-assembly and improve the quality of the finish coating.

It is also worth choosing a spatula with a tooth depth, which is indicated in the recommendations on the adhesive package. If such information is not available, spatulas with a tooth height of 3-6 mm should be used. You should not use a coarse-toothed trowel, as high adhesive rusts will lead to the formation of cavities under the tile.

During installation, you will also need a diamond drill for laying pipes and a tile cutter. Do not forget about the templates - plastic crosses. For grouting, use a special trowel or an economical option - a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm. The finishing of the seams is carried out using flannel rags.

The rest of the tool is selected according to standard construction criteria.

Room preparation

How to start preparing a bathroom for renovation. First of all, carry out the dismantling of old plumbing fixtures. The pipes from the supply of cold and hot water are preliminarily disconnected. To avoid problems, shut off the water on the risers.

After that, everything is removed from the bathroom. The result is an empty room with bare walls and floor. The heating system is also turned off and plugs are placed. Next, you need to turn off the power supply to junction box. For lighting, you will have to use portable lamps and extension cords.

After completing all the above manipulations, you can begin to clean the surfaces, starting from the ceiling. If the repair is carried out in the "brezhnevka", then you may be in for a surprise - an insulating box of the room with a GPV, which must be removed. All work should be done very carefully. To avoid the collapse of the ceiling, props are used.

Old wall and floor tiles are removed with a chisel or perforator. Surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of cement or adhesive residues. The most dusty and unpleasant stage is the removal of the top layer of plaster. To do this, you must use a drill with a metal brush of 80-100 millimeters. If old finish loose, it must be removed to brick or concrete.

Where to start renovating the floor in the bathroom

Initially, an audit of the condition of the floor is carried out, which will determine the scope of work. After removing the tiles with a perforator, it is necessary to remove the remains of the cement substrate. If the base is very strong, it can only be removed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Inspection old screed will determine if it is necessary complete replacement or just make a new fill and alignment. The latter option will save time and money on repairs, but it is possible only if the old substrate is in satisfactory condition. In addition, self-leveling floors in a bathroom with a small size are the surest solution. It must be remembered that the thickness of such a floor must be at least 30 mm.

Bathroom floor waterproofing

You can not use ordinary film in this room. The best option is aquaizol or analogues from polyester. Today it is the most reliable material for the bathroom and bathroom.

When installing a waterproofing layer, the layers are glued together using mastic or welded with a special industrial hair dryer. The insulating layer must be laid on the walls for at least 25 centimeters with folds in the corners. Only after that you can fill the floor and form a new screed.

self-leveling floor

For a self-leveling floor, a two-component composition should be taken: the initial fill and a viscous layer. After that comes the leveling liquid layer.

A new floor screed must be created with modern and high-quality materials. Expanded clay should not be used as a heater, as it is very hygroscopic. Styrofoam concrete is also not suitable for the bathroom. The most optimal option is glass-magnesite plates. They have high strength, which allows them to be mounted directly on reinforcing mesh.

For a high-quality floor screed in the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account some features:

1. Cement must have a grade of at least 400.
2. It is necessary to use only sifted quartz sand.
3. The ratio of sand to cement is 4:1.
4. The volume of water is equal to the amount of cement.
5. Also, 10% of the total volume of the PVA emulsion is added to the water.
6. The general formation of the screed is carried out by beacons with a layer thickness of at least 40 mm.
7. After leveling, dotirka is carried out with a smooth trowel.

It should be noted that a new cement-sand screed must dry for at least 40 days. Only after the expiration of this period can the repair work be continued.

Where to start laying communications in the bathroom during the repair?

Open pipes in the bathroom significantly worsen the appearance of the room, and chasing the walls to hide them is quite tedious and dusty. If we talk about a block house, then such a procedure is simply impossible, since the reinforcement in the slabs will not make it possible to make the necessary niches. In addition, sewer pipes do not have welded joints and must be accessible for inspection in case of blockages.

Pipe laying

Coming out of the above features, all pipes must be run along the bottom of the room in one bundle and closed with special slopes. IN finishing slopes covering pipes can be tiled. In addition, these structures are best made removable for quick access. You will also need small strobes, especially for vertical pipes, which lead to mixers or a boiler.

Replacing the pipeline should start with the sewer system. Drain pipes are assembled quite quickly with the help of rubber seals and sealant. You can lay them out in one day. After that, the polypropylene water supply pipes are soldered. For the heating system and heated towel rail, it is worth using metal-plastic pipes, which bend perfectly and are also settled in niches. As an additional protection, strobes with pipes can be foamed.

Installation of electrical wiring

As mentioned earlier, the bathroom has high humidity, which puts forward special requirements for materials, especially electrical system. The most optimal and reliable option is to use double-insulated wires that are tightened into a protective corrugation. High-quality insulation will create a reliable and secure system electrical supply.

Bathroom renovation: where to start plastering

The process of finishing with plaster should be carried out along the beacons, which will allow you to get perfectly flat surfaces for finishing cladding. To do this, it is necessary to apply two layers: starting and finishing. In this case, you can not save on materials.

It should be noted that the waterproofing apron should not be cut, it must be glued to the wall with tape and covered with a layer of putty. There are no special recommendations and features for finishing; it is carried out, as in other rooms, from ceiling to floor. It is better to apply the plaster mix in portions.

Bathroom ceiling insulation

Even in very warm homes, insulating the ceiling in the bathroom or bathroom is a must, as this will reduce the amount of condensate. As you know, excessive moisture is the primary cause of repair. As for the floor, it is worth mounting a LSU layer on the ceiling, which is attached with mounting glue or silicone. For reliable fastening, props are used, one per meter of area.

Features of filing the ceiling of the bathroom

The ceiling is the most vulnerable spot. This requires a warm and beautiful design, with high resistance to condensation. Because of this, the best option is plastic lining or ceiling laminate. Mounting Features:

1. The laying of the material is carried out using building silicone or mounting adhesive.
2. When mounting each next board, a thin layer of glue is applied to the tongue of the lock. Any spills are removed immediately with a rag.
3. The last boards of the ceiling are laid with a house, and after pressing the middle they snap into place and fall into place.
4. Before the glue dries, rack supports are used.

These are reliable structures, since they are not only glued, but also connected with tongue and groove locks, which makes it possible to form a one-piece shield. It should be noted that the ceiling finish is carried out before the wall cladding. This is necessary in order for all ceiling structure supported by the ends wall tiles. All this guarantees a tight and reliable design.

Where to start finishing the bathroom floor

The most successful solution for the floor is porcelain tiles. It is glued end-to-end, without seams. Any spilled adhesive should be cleaned up immediately. A layer of glue is applied in longitudinal strokes with a spatula. For a 30x30 tile, the consumption should be 0.25-0.35 sq.m.

Laying starts from the door so that the cut parts are hidden under the bathtub or the slope of the pipes. The last row with cut tiles should be laid after the main part has dried, so as not to lose the accuracy of the entire coating.

Each laid tile must be tapped with a rubber mallet. Thus, they sit well on the glue and move to the free edge. To avoid voids, glue rusts are made shallow and parallel.

Another option for the bathroom is a wooden floor. Such designs are quite warm, and it is even pleasant to step on it with bare feet. Due to the elasticity of the material, it can withstand baths with great weight, which gives another plus in the use of wood. Nevertheless, it is necessary to understand that the installation of such a floor requires more material costs and time.

The best option for the bathroom is larch or teak. Initially, the material is impregnated with PVA emulsion, and acrylic varnish is used as a finish. All this guarantees durability and quality of a design. For installation, grooved materials are used, which are laid similar to the ceiling, and leave an indent of 25 millimeters from the walls. The gap near the wall will allow the wood to move freely when it swells. Before installing the skirting boards, the gap can be filled with polyurethane foam.

Where to start cladding bathroom walls

The best material in terms of price and quality for the bathroom is tile. Finishing has also gained popularity recently. plastic panels. It is an inexpensive and hygienic material.

When installing wall tiles, the seams are cut; for this, template crosses are used when shrinking onto the glue. The technology is practically no different from the installation of floor tiles. In the tiles through which pipes and electric wires will pass, corresponding holes are made in advance with a diamond crown.

After the glue has hardened, the corners of the tiles are sealed with silicone. After applying the sealant, a piece of cable is applied, pressed and immediately removed. Due to this, silicone perfectly penetrates into the corner, and the seam itself receives a smooth and concave surface. Any spills should be removed immediately with a rag soaked in vinegar.

On planes, seams are also required. special composition. At the same time, the crosses are taken out, and the seams are filled with material. To avoid irregularities and errors, it is worth using special tool or the same cable.

Installation of electrical, plumbing and ventilation in the bathroom

Installation of plumbing fixtures involves the following steps:

1. Installation of a sink, bathtub or shower.
2. Installation of mixers.
3. Connection of water heaters (if necessary).
4. Replacement of meters for cold and hot water.

As for the installation of the ventilation system, quite often the box removed before repair can be reused. Cleaning and painting will restore the original look. To increase the efficiency of the system, it is worth installing a flapper valve that will not allow cold air to enter the room in winter. If you have free money, you can install more modern ventilation systems, which abound in hardware stores.

A minimum number of electrical appliances should be installed in the bathroom, since high humidity can disrupt their functionality or even threaten the health of the owner. The stationary set includes a ceiling lamp, exhaust fan. Of course, in reality, each owner installs more devices, the main thing is that they have excellent protection against moisture.

As for the washing machine, it does not apply to stationary appliances, and its installation is carried out in conjunction with the bathroom.

Output

Doing your own bathroom remodeling can save you a lot of money. But in parallel with this, unprofessional actions lead to errors in the implementation of certain stages. Because of this, it must be said that the options for restoration work depend on the owner himself and his financial capabilities. The main thing is that you already know where to start renovating the bathroom.

The bathroom is one of the smallest rooms in an apartment or a private house. But, despite such dimensions, this room is considered the most difficult from the point of view of architects.

The first difficulty is that this is where all the wiring of engineering communications is concentrated. Any unskilled intervention in the wiring diagram will be very Negative consequences for the entire building. How to competently solve problems with engineering communications, we will describe in the article a little lower.

The second difficulty is the operating conditions of building materials, plumbing equipment and special furniture the heaviest. Constant high air humidity, frequent direct contact of architectural elements with water and heat require special materials and construction technologies. This is the only way to ensure the reliability and durability of the premises.

Like all construction work, bathroom remodeling should start with planning. There are two reasons for the need for repairs in the bathroom, there is a big difference between them, respectively, and the planning methodology is not the same.

emergency repair

The bathroom was damaged due to flooding or fire. Such situations cannot be foreseen, and the consequences should be eliminated as soon as possible. Accordingly, there is no time for calm planning, decisions have to be made very quickly.

One more serious problem- finance. If there is time to carefully prepare for planned repairs and save money, then the consequences of the accident must be eliminated as quickly as possible.

How to act in order to eliminate the consequences of emergencies in a short time and with minimal losses? How to plan a bathroom renovation?

1. Make an audit of the condition of equipment and building elements. Treat this stage very responsibly, the more problems you notice, the more fully you can make purchases. And this means that there will be no need to go back to the store for every lost detail and waste precious time.

   

2. Buy materials with the most similar properties. Do not try to radically change something in the sewerage and plumbing systems. Such work takes a lot of time, and an emergency situation requires a quick solution.

   

3. Don't chase too much expensive materials, consider your financial capabilities.
4. Plan to bring in helpers. It can be both specialized companies and more experienced acquaintances. Self-repair after an accident can be delayed, and this is highly undesirable. And not only because the bathroom needs to be used constantly, but also because the longer building construction wet, the more damage.

   

5. Make an execution plan repair work. You need to think several stages ahead, do not allow technical downtime.

   

When preparatory stage planning is completed and materials purchased, you can start repair work.

Scheduled repairs

The situation is much calmer, there is time to think and weigh everything in detail. What is recommended to consider when planning a renovation?

1. Think about your financial possibilities. At the same time, sum up the price of all materials and the cost of their installation. If the repair is overhaul, then it is necessary to calculate the number and cost of re-equipment or installation of new engineering networks. The list of works includes the dismantling of old equipment and finishing materials (in case of a major overhaul), preparation of wall, floor and ceiling surfaces, installation of water supply and sewerage, electrical wiring, installation of plumbing equipment and surface finishing. The specific list largely depends on the selected building materials and technologies.

   

2. If some work cannot be done on your own, then consider the cost of the services of professional builders or plumbers. As a rule, they charge as much for the work as the materials cost, but it is better to check the price lists of the companies. In order to do repairs in the bathroom yourself, you should have a fairly large set of tools. Decide whether or not to buy them for one-time work.

   

3. Draw a sketch of the room, indicating the location of outlets, plumbing fixtures and furniture. This will depend on the order of the work. Take measurements, calculate the surface area. Based on this data, you can find out the need for materials. Do not forget to make a reserve for obligatory waste, every master has them, not a single construction project can do without unproductive waste. The layout of the pipes will allow you to select consumables: sewer and water pipes, angles, bends, couplings, adapters, etc.

   

4. Determine how you will level the walls. To do this, you can use gypsum boards, waterproof OSB or chipboard, cement mixtures. Each material has its strengths and weak sides, the price of finishing may differ at times, the required alignment time also differs at times. Make your final decision based on maximum number individual factors.

   

Only after clarifying all the questions, you can proceed to the direct repair of the premises.

Bathroom renovation steps

The scheme of actions may vary slightly, taking into account the features of the repair and the condition of the premises. But for most cases, bathroom renovations need to be done in this sequence.

Step 1. Dismantling of old wall, ceiling and floor cladding. Using an electric hammer or manually remove the wall cladding. Don't try to keep the old ceramic tiles. Firstly, it is unlikely to be reused due to a very unsightly appearance. Secondly, you can never foresee how many pieces will remain intact, and how many will have to be broken. Thirdly, the time spent on carefully knocking down old tiles can be used more rationally.

Step 2 Dismantle old plumbing and sewer systems.

Important. If personal knowledge in plumbing subtleties is not enough, then we strongly recommend that you consult a professional. Unskilled intervention in the installed heating, water supply and sewerage systems can completely disable them.

Cut metal pipes with a grinder, put waste in one place. If the rest of the rooms are residential, then take measures to prevent the spread of dust. Always close the door, prevent drafts, cover the furniture with plastic wrap. Work in the bathroom will have to wear a respirator.

Step 3 Find out the location old wiring. This is not as difficult to do as it seems, but only if the wiring is laid in compliance with the PUE. Knowing the hidden wiring diagram will allow you to avoid many unpleasant situations during wall chasing or plaster dismantling.

How to find out the location of the wiring under the plaster?

1. Find the wiring box on the wall, it should be under the ceiling. Several conductive cables converge in the wiring box, it has holes for their output. Modern boxes are made of plastic, old houses are made of iron.
2. Find all the switches and sockets on the wall, and on the ceiling where the lighting fixtures are connected. One of the main rules for installing electrical wiring is that all cables should only be bent at a right angle, in the direction they can only be vertical or horizontal.
3. Draw vertical lines from sockets and switches, draw from the ceiling from the wiring box horizontal line. There should be wiring along these lines in the plaster. To guarantee, make deviations from them by 5–10 cm in each direction. The fact is that not all electricians are conscientious about their duties, in order to avoid damage to cables, it is better to make a stock.

In this way, you will learn where you can hammer the plaster without fear, and in what places to be extra careful. But in any case, before starting work, you should turn off the machine in the bathroom.

Step 4 Mount new wiring, sewer pipes and water supply. We strongly recommend that all pipes be placed under the wall cladding. Work is greatly simplified if the walls are finished with various plates.

Important. Before installing pipes and electrical wiring on the wall, you need to designate the location of the switches and sockets, the connection points for the sink and bath. It is desirable to know the dimensions and features of plumbing, taking into account these data, you can accurately calculate the height of the location of water outlets and drains. Due to this, installation work will be accelerated, and the reliability of fixing plumbing will increase.

Step 5 Start leveling the ceiling, walls and floor. For the floor, professionals recommend using cement screeds, it has the highest performance. If you plan to make a heated floor, then you need to take into account the total thickness of the cake and mark the position of the tiles on the wall from it.

For leveling, you need to prepare a container, spatula, level, tape measure

Step 6 After the screed has completely hardened, start laying the partitions. Their location should take into account the size of the bathtub or shower stall, the layout of the room, the presence of additional architectural elements, etc. It is better to make partitions from concrete blocks about 10 cm thick. Use for these purposes gypsum boards not worth it, they have much more disadvantages than advantages.

First, beat off the position of the first row of blocks on the floor, check all dimensions and angles. Be sure to control the position of each row of blocks, it is better to lay them under the rope. To increase the stability of the partition through a row, tie the blocks with a perforated metal tape, fix it with self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. Same metal bands attach blocks to capital walls bathroom.

Step 7 Start installing sewer pipes. If you do overhaul premises, then the purpose of each existing outlet should be studied, otherwise other rooms of the apartment or house can be turned off. Pipes are better to use plastic. Connect them into a socket, for sealing all additional elements have rubber gaskets. Pipes are fixed to the wall with special clamps. If finishing plastering is planned, then walls must be ditched under the pipes. The arrangement of electrical cables previously drawn on the wall increases the safety of the work.

Step 8 If a shower cabin without a pallet is planned in the room, then lay the water drainage system. She may have various options, but this does not have a significant effect on the algorithm of actions. The main thing is that all the recommendations of the manufacturers are followed, the floor has reliable waterproofing, all connections are sloped and do not leak.

Step 9Make sure that the installation of engineering systems is correct. Shut off open water outlets and check the tightness of the connections. To do this, put sheets of paper under the joints, drops of water will be visible on them. If leaks are found, turn off the water supply and fix the problem.

Step 10 Start pouring the floor, the method of pouring depends on the chosen technology. To save materials and speed up work on the subfloor, you can lay broken bricks or other construction waste to the height of plastic pipes. This will not affect the quality, but it will significantly simplify and speed up the process of leveling the floor. In addition, in case of emergencies, access to pipes will be much easier, you will not have to hammer a thick layer of concrete. Rough leveling of the floor is done according to the beacons, but there is no need to observe special accuracy. Final leveling can be done immediately before laying the tiles.

At this preparatory stage of the bathroom renovation is considered complete, you can start finishing the surfaces.

Common mistakes at the initial stage of repair

Errors arise for two reasons: a big hurry during the final decision and a lack of practical experience in performing such work.

1. The fact is that they have a guaranteed service life, in such buildings it is at the limit. Worn pipes can leak several months after a major overhaul. It takes a lot of money and time to fix problems. It is much more profitable to foresee the occurrence of force majeure situations than to eliminate them later.

   

2. At the same time, install sockets not only with the calculation for the existing equipment, but also for the future. Increase the number of sockets, select the cable section taking into account the possible increase in the total power of electricity consumers.

   

   

3. Install the bath in such a position that its size allows you to place a maximum of household appliances in the room, does not interfere with the connection of the sink, etc. It is better to have a free space next to the bath with a fairly large area than several small ones. The bath should not divide the room into several zones.

   

4. When decorating walls with ceramic tiles, it is not recommended to get carried away with a large number of decorative elements: borders, special internal and external corners. These items are very expensive. In terms of area, they occupy no more than 10–15% of the walls, and in terms of cost they can exceed the price of the rest of the tile. In addition, decorative elements often have various bulges that create difficulties during the installation of plumbing - the fixation planes of sinks and toilet bowls are even and should be mounted on the same even walls.

   

5. The dimensions of the doorway must match the dimensions of the doors. There are cases when it is required to install non-standard doors, and the opening has already been made and the walls are tiled. To expand the opening, it is necessary not only to saw off part of the partition, but also to tile. As a result of such actions, it cracks, a complete replacement of the adjacent row is required.

   

6. Pay special attention to the position of the partition on which the door will be installed. Theoretically, tiles can be laid on a sloping wall, although it is better not to allow this. And it is even theoretically impossible to install a door on an oblique wall. There will always be a gap between the wall and the casing, it will not be possible to make it invisible.

   

7. Consider ways to install inspection hatches. The use of cheap plastic models is currently not recommended even for budget options bathrooms. Modern hatches with magnetic lids look much better. Installing them is not a problem, only a specific placement should be planned at the stage of laying out the tiles.

   

   

8. Bathroom ventilation must be reliable and efficient, the air exchange rate must be at least 7. In order to save thermal energy, it is recommended to install indoor electric fan and include it in work only during the adoption of water procedures. You just need to keep in mind that it is strictly forbidden to connect such fans to existing general house systems, issues should be resolved with specialists.

   

   

Video - Mistakes that are made during repairs in the bathroom and toilet

How to save money when planning a bathroom renovation

Performing a beautiful and stylish renovation with a significant financial resource is easier than achieving the same result with minimal losses. Money. What can you save on without lowering the quality of a bathroom renovation?

1. The fastest and cheap way ceiling sheathing - use drywall or plastic panels. Under them, by the way, electrical cables are laid. Plastering ceilings is an expensive and lengthy process.

   

   

2. It is recommended to always use only high-quality waterproofing, it should be done strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Due to high-quality waterproofing, you can save significant money on unplanned repairs that occur after an emergency breakthrough of water pipes or leaks at the junction of fittings.

   

3. To level the walls, it is recommended to use cheap cement-sand mortars, and not expensive gypsum mortars that are widely used today. They are much cheaper, and in terms of performance they surpass them in all important parameters.

   

   

4. It is more profitable to finish the walls with durable ceramic tiles. They are superior in price plastic materials, but the long operating time more than pays for the investment.

   

5. For wall decoration, buy plain tiles. This is not only in trend at the present time, but also saves material by reducing the amount of waste for trimming and fitting.

   

6. Never throw away leftover tile, store it under the bathtub or in another convenient place. It does not take up much space, and if repairs are needed, you will always have at hand the material of the desired color and size.

   

7. You can buy the cheapest sinks and toilets, but you don’t need to save on communications. Their breakdowns and repairs create a lot of problems, the solution of which will require significant financial resources.

   

8. Never throw away checks for purchased goods before the end of the warranty period. Only if they are available, you can return a defective product to the seller.

   

9. Plan shopping in one store, choose a large supermarket. As a regular buyer for large amounts, you can be provided with significant discounts.

   

Practice shows that proper planning and the consistent implementation of the preparatory work allow, in the end, to have an excellent bathroom space and at the same time manage with minimal financial losses. And the last. It is recommended to start repairs only when you have at least 90% of the materials and equipment to complete it. A long break in work due to lack of materials often leads to the fact that it is necessary to redo the already completed volume.

It is not difficult to build a pallet on your own, but in order for everything to work without failures, it is necessary to equip a sewer drain. This will help the sewer ladder, which must be properly installed in the floor.

Read the article on the site on how to install a shower drain with your own hands. detailed information with step-by-step instructions and a photo report on.

Video - Where to start repairing the bathroom

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

The correct sequence of work is important for any repair, regardless of its complexity. Repairing a bathroom and a toilet with your own hands requires especially careful adherence to the planned order, since if the stages of work are not completed on time, you can ruin what has already been done. It is impossible, for example, to produce fine finish walls and floors, and only then think about replacing wiring and pipes.

The specificity of the repair of the bathroom, firstly, in the small size of the room, and secondly, in a large concentration of various appliances and communications. Repairs in the bathroom and toilet are made less frequently than in living quarters, but usually more thoroughly. Experts recommend starting a major overhaul from the bathroom, because this is often the dirtiest part of all work. That is why the most milestone, which in no case should be neglected, is the preparation of a detailed repair plan.

Making a bathroom renovation plan

The first thing to do at the planning stage:

1. Decide on the design and style of the future bathroom and toilet, choose a color scheme. Traditionally, baths are finished in pastel colors, two shades will look most successful, for example, green and olive, beige and peach, blue and blue.
2. Decide what types of materials will be used in the decoration. Most often, tiles, plastic panels, porcelain stoneware, and mosaics are used to decorate the bathroom.
3. Inspect plumbing and, if necessary, decide on replacement options. When buying new plumbing fixtures, be sure to make sure they fit.
4. Measure the parameters of the room (height, width, length) and calculate the area. Consider the location of plumbing fixtures and other necessary details and draw a detailed plan. It is necessary to decide how and where the bath or shower, sink, toilet, mirror, heated towel rail, washing machine will be located.

Tip: when planning, you need to take into account that after plastering the walls, the dimensions may change slightly. This should be taken into account when buying everything you need, and if you are not sure about the size, postpone this item until the moment when rough finish will be ready.

The scale of do-it-yourself repairs in the bathroom depends on various factors: the degree of wear of pipes and plumbing, the obsolescence of finishes, the desire to update the design of the room. Consider the sequence of actions during a major overhaul, which involves the replacement of electrical communications and plumbing, plumbing fixtures and redevelopment of the premises.

Important! Before you redevelop the bathroom, for example, demolish the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, you need to get permission from the BTI.

An example work plan would be as follows:

1. removal of plumbing and all interfering objects;
2. dismantling of old coverings, doors;
3. demolition of partitions (if necessary);
4. dismantling of plumbing and electrical wiring;
5. floor leveling;
6. replacement of risers and pipes of water supply and sewerage;
7. installation of electrical wiring;
8. finishing floors, walls and ceilings;
9. installation of plumbing fixtures;
10. installation of doors and electrical equipment.

USEFUL INFORMATION: Design of a bathroom and toilet in an apartment 23 photos

Now let's look at each stage of the repair in more detail.

We dismantle and remove all unnecessary

At the dismantling stage, the following work will have to be done:

1. Remove the door along with the jamb. It is advisable to complete this item in the first place, since through a free doorway it will be easier to take out the garbage and bring in materials and tools. If the door is not planned to be changed, it is still better to remove the door from the hinges and remove it so that it does not interfere, and also to avoid damaging it.
2. Dismantle and remove old plumbing. Even if you are not going to change the sink or toilet, it is better to remove and take them out during the repair. If this is not possible, you need to reliably protect them from chips and cracks. Foam rubber, rags or polystyrene can be laid on fragile objects and covered with a film, securing it with tape.
3. Demolish barriers. This is necessary if you are expanding the bathroom or making a combined bathroom.
4. Remove old coatings: ceramic tiles, paint, loose plaster from walls and floors. The tile is easily beaten off with a perforator.

Leveling the floor and walls

The floor in the bathroom should be smooth and even. You can make it this way in a variety of ways.

• "Sealed floor" - a self-leveling screed based on gypsum or cement. Sold as a dry mix, suitable for do-it-yourself styling. The diluted solution is simply poured onto the floor and rolled with a spiked roller.

• Usage plaster mixture on a gypsum basis and additionally - a water-repellent mixture, especially for the bathroom. Waterproofing material must cover not only the floor, but also part of the walls located near the bath or shower.
• If necessary, a concrete screed is made after the waterproofing device. If it already exists, finishing facing you need to apply a waterproofing mastic on it and use waterproof glue for the tiles.

Walls can be leveled with plaster or sheets of moisture-resistant drywall. The latter material has a number of advantages over plastered walls.

1. Firstly, drywall is great as a base for tiles.
2. Secondly, when finishing the walls of the GKL, the work of laying electrical wiring is greatly simplified, since the wires can be placed in the frame of the wall structure.

USEFUL INFORMATION: Sizes of washbasins and sinks in the bathroom

Water supply and sewerage

Old pipes must be removed to the riser itself. The water and sewer risers should also be replaced at this stage, as this will be difficult to do later. This work requires a certain qualification, so it is better to invite a master to carry it out.

It is quite possible to do the internal wiring of pipes with your own hands.

Work is carried out in the following sequence:

• the risers are given the necessary configuration;
• hidden pipe wiring is laid to the water intake points;
• a heated towel rail is installed in the bathroom;
• filters are installed;
• emergency water shutoff valves are installed;
• if necessary, a water heating system is integrated.

1. pipe with hot water must be located above the cold pipe.
2. With a large number of water intake points, it will be more convenient to have a collector connection system, which involves running a separate pipe to each point.
3. The paths for the passage of sewer and water pipes are marked directly on the walls.
4. It is customary to install a bathroom faucet 10 cm above the side of the bath, optimal distance between the pipes that go to the mixer - 15 cm.
5. It is necessary to mark the passage of the cold water pipe for the washing machine, the pipe outlet should be at a distance of 50 cm from the floor.
6. Sewer pipes are located at an angle for draining.
7. Risers can be closed with a metal profile box and moisture-resistant drywall, which is then plastered.
8. Do not forget about the technical hatch on the box for access to the meters and the tap.

Wiring

In order not to damage the final finish, electrical wiring is preliminarily installed. If you hide the wiring in metal pipes, then in the future you will not need to open the walls to replace it, you can simply pull out the wires.

Due to high humidity conditions, wiring must be installed strictly according to the rules:

• sockets and appliances must be grounded;
• switches, lamps, sockets and cables must be protected from moisture and high temperatures;
• You can connect sockets and the lighting system only after the repair is completed.

USEFUL INFORMATION: How to level the walls in the bathroom under the tiles: how to level the wall under the tiles

Determining the location of future outlets, marking electrical wiring, as well as pipes, can be done directly on the walls. After that, strobes are made along the marked lines with the help of a perforator, into which the cable will be laid.

Finishing with facing materials

After completing the rough work, you can proceed to the finishing of the floor, walls, and then the ceiling. For convenience, finishing work is also best done in a certain sequence:

• First you need to prime the walls and floor and make sure that all surfaces are level and that no wires or pipes are visible anywhere.
• Then laid out floor tiles. It is necessary to ensure that during the laying process there are no voids between the tiles. Seams must be cleaned and rubbed.

Tip: if you are going to install a bathtub with a closing screen, you can not lay tiles on the floor that will be hidden under it to save material.

• After the floor, the walls are lined with the selected material.

• At the end, the ceiling is put in order.

There are many options for finishing the ceiling:

1. coating with water-based paint;
2. installation of a stretch or false ceiling;
3. installation of plastic panels.

Bathroom renovation has long been part of our plans, since the last time it was done 15 years ago. During this time, the bath turned yellow, the sewer pipes clogged, the tiles began to fall off, the plumbing was covered with an indelible coating. Therefore, we saved up money, counted the amount of material, gathered our strength and began to repair.

However, first things first. First, we turned to repair specialists. Our bathroom is located in an apartment in a house built in the Khrushchev era, when the party and the government were faced with the task of quickly resettling Soviet citizens. Therefore, no one cared about comfort, the main thing was to give people a lot of housing, more modest yes smaller size. For example, our bathroom, together with the toilet, has a size of 1.5 by 1.8 m. And for the repair of this small area, local craftsmen asked for an amount that could hardly fit in our heads.

Of course, they can also be understood. There is no work in the provinces (namely, where the house of the Khrushchev era is located), so people who did not leave to protect the capital and know how to do at least something, took up the repair of apartments and private houses. And since there are few such people, the demand for their services is high. Prices have skyrocketed, so even for the repair of a small bathroom they ask for big money, by the standards of the same province. As if the Kremlin Palace is going to be restored. And the quality of work leaves much to be desired. Even our Uzbek friends no longer want to receive a reward, for which a couple of years ago they were ready to work hard from morning to night.

For comparison, you can view the work of the capital's masters at the builders' exchange VotMastera.ru. Prices are an order of magnitude lower than those offered by local repairmen, and the quality of the work performed can be judged both by photos and customer reviews.

In general, having assessed the volume and specifics of the upcoming work, we decided to do the repairs ourselves. And the money that could go to the wages of the workers, we will spend on the boards and make it in the country, and even there won’t be any left. In this article we will tell you in detail how we did the repair, attaching a lot of photos.

DIY BATHROOM REPAIR

First of all, let's define the scope of work. We decided to make a complete renovation with our own hands, replacing everything that is there: a bath, a toilet bowl, a sink, a radiator, floor and wall coverings. Everything except, which we recently mounted.

First, remove the cabinets and shelves, unscrew the screws on which they were held, remove the sink. As a battery, we hung a heated towel rail, curved like a coil. We will change it too.

If you plan to replace the radiators, then you need to carry out repairs at the time of the year when there is no water in the radiators. Carefully cut off the heated towel rail grinder.

Now let's break the tile. To do this, we use a perforator with a nozzle in the form of a spatula.

Carefully remove the entire tile, trying not to damage it. It can be useful, for example, for landscaping.

Water was supplied to the bathroom through polypropylene pipes. Let's turn off the tap and dismantle the entire pipeline together with the mixer. To have water supply, connect to the tap flexible hose and we will use it during the repair with our own hands.

There is a ventilation window under the ceiling, in which a fan was mounted and connected to electricity. Under it there is another entrance to the ventilation shaft, where the tin box coming from the kitchen is inserted.

This is how Soviet engineers designed apartments - the kitchen was ventilated through the bathroom. Another architectural masterpiece is the window between the kitchen and the bathroom.

In some apartments, it has survived to this day. They probably made it in order to be able to take and follow the preparation of dinner. We carefully dismantle the tin box with the fan.

Next in line is the bath. We disconnect it from the sewer and take it out of the room.

A heating pipe was laid under it, which goes to the kitchen, a heated towel rail was connected to it. Let's leave a piece of such a length that we can cut the thread, cut off the rest of it with a grinder. We cut the thread with a half-inch lerka.

The sewerage laid in the bathroom has been in operation since the construction of the house. It's made from cast iron. Carefully, using a small sledgehammer, knock out the pipes from the entrance to the sewer riser.

They broke, looked, were horrified - they were completely packed. How the water left the kitchen sink remained a mystery.

The last to dismantle the toilet. It was connected to a cast-iron elbow, which is inserted into the sewer riser. To take out this knee - I had to suffer. They've done it right before. But there is still no reception against a sledgehammer and scrap. Just tap on the knee carefully, cast iron is a fragile material. Knocked, twisted - pulled out.

The floor was covered with ceramic tiles. During the repair, we also dismantled it using a perforator, having cleaned the floor to a cement screed.

Half of the work repair the bathroom is finished with your own hands.

INSTALLATION OF THE WATER PIPE IN THE BATHROOM WITH YOUR HANDS

The plumbing, which we dismantled during the renovation, ran over the wall. From the condensate that collected on it, it turned black. To prevent this from happening again, we will hide it, where possible, in the walls. To do this, we will make strobes in the places where we plan to install the pipe with a perforator with a nozzle with a spatula. The depth of the strobe should be slightly greater than its diameter so that it can be completely plastered. This work is quite dusty, so we recommend closing cracks under the door with some material. In several places, the strobe needs to be enlarged so that the pipe fastening to the wall can be inserted.

For the installation of water supply, we chose pipes made of polypropylene. This is a modern, reliable and durable material with a long service life. To connect them, a special soldering machine with metal nozzles of different diameters is used. It works like this: we heat the device, at the same time insert the pipe and the coupling into the nozzles, wait until they melt and connect them together. After a few seconds, when the material has cooled down, the connection is ready for use.

Before installing the plumbing in the bathroom with our own hands, we carefully measure all dimensions, calculate the number of required couplings, corners, stopcocks and fittings. If the connection needs to be made detachable, we use special “American” fittings. With their help, part of the system can be separated without destroying it. We plan to install a water meter. Just in front of the meter and after it, we use “Americans” so that we can replace it if necessary. We will provide for the installation of a main filter for water purification. We solder the shut-off ball valve so that you can turn off the water before replacing the cartridge.

After the renovation in the bathroom, we will have 3 water points - one near the sink, the other - at the bathroom, the third - at the toilet. To two points we will bring cold and hot, to the toilet - only cold. After we fix the polypropylene in the strobes, we screw the valves to the fittings and supply water. It is necessary to check the system for leaks before we start plastering and tiling. In our case, everything turned out to be normal, you can start. But before that, we will make more small strobes to hide in them electric wires. The bathroom had an outlet that was too high off the floor. During the repair, we will lengthen the wiring and lower it lower.

We will also bring electricity to the ventilation window and bring out the wire for connection with a lighting lamp.

WALL PLASTER

First, we will plaster the window between the bathroom and the kitchen. From the side of the kitchen, it is already patched up, we will do the same in the bathroom. To do this, cut off the height of the opening aluminum profiles, fix them on the frame with screws.

We cut out a piece of moisture-resistant drywall to fit the window and fasten it to the profile flush with the wall.

To keep the plaster stronger, we glue the joints with masking tape.

Prepare the solution according to the instructions written on the packaging with the dry mix. Put it on a wide spatula and plaster the window.

To make it easier to lay ceramic tiles on the walls, they must be leveled. If the irregularity is large, you can use plaster beacons by setting them vertically in level. After that, we cover all the strobes with a mixture, then we completely plaster everything.

We will also adjust the ventilation windows to the size of the decorative grilles.

Now you can paint gas pipe that runs under the ceiling of the bathroom.

INSTALLATION OF TILE ON WALLS

To decorate the walls in the bathroom, we chose ceramic tiles rectangular shape. After waiting three days for the plaster to dry, we proceed to laying.

We will not tile under the bathroom. Let's start with the second row. So that it does not move out, we fix the rail along the entire length. Prepare the glue by mixing the dry mixture with water of the desired proportion with a mixer. We put it on the wall with a spatula, level it with a comb over an area equal to the size of one or two pieces and apply the tile, slightly pressing on it.

Thus, slowly, lay it on the entire surface. Between the tiles it is necessary to install special plastic crosses to help control the size of the joints. For beauty, you can glue copies of a different pattern or color,

symmetrically placing them on the walls.

After laying the tile, wipe it off the adhesive residue. Then we take the grout of the desired color, stir it with water and gently rub the seams with a rubber spatula.

First, fill the seam with a mixture of transverse movement, then align the longitudinal. After a couple, when the grout dries, remove its remnants with a dry cloth.

Next, we will fasten the “American” detachable fitting to it, we will attach the heating pipe to it.

In place of the old battery, we will hang a new one, providing in front of it a shut-off valve and a Mayevsky valve to bleed air.

Let's connect the pipes to the centralized heating system.

To lay the pipe to the place of its installation,

without forgetting to solder the ball valve.

INSTALLATION OF HEATED WATER FLOOR

On the bathroom floor, we decided to make a heating system. To do this, during the repair on cement screed we laid the welded mesh, attaching it to the floor with dowels and screws.

Before that, the base was treated with a deep penetration primer to remove dust. For a warm floor, we will use a metal-plastic pipe. Having cut off the required amount, bend it in a zigzag and attach it to the grid with plastic clamps. Where there will be a toilet and under the bath - we will not lay it.

We connect the metal-plastic to the heating system using special corners and fittings. At the entrance to the water heated floor, we will install a valve to regulate the water pressure and a Mayevsky tap. At the exit we will put a shut-off valve. This is done so that you can completely turn off the warm water floor during a possible accident.

After we connect everything into one system, we fill the base of the bathroom with self-leveling properties. Pour the contents of the bag with the dry mixture into a container with water and mix thoroughly with a mixer. Be sure to maintain the proportions indicated on the packaging, otherwise the manufacturer of the mixture does not guarantee the declared strength of the self-leveling floor. After pouring the mixture onto the screed, roll it with a spiked roller to expel air bubbles.

Having filled the entire area of ​​the bathroom, we rest for three days until the floors dry and gain the strength necessary for further work.

After the rest, we proceed to the final stage of repair. In ventilation holes we will install decorative elements and an electric fan by connecting wires to it.

Now the hood is forced to work when the light in the bathroom is turned on. We install a new box for ventilation of the kitchen.

Don't forget to plug in the outlet.

The self-leveling floor is dry, so ceramic tiles can be laid on it. Here the technology is the same as when laying it on the walls. We stir the glue, apply it to the base, level it with a comb spatula, lay the tiles.

In the seams, as usual, we insert crosses. To lay tiles in places where pipes run, cut off tile cutter pieces. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth. Periodically we control the horizontal by the building level. At the end, we also grout the seams.

Wait a day for the glue to dry.

Now you can lay the sewer. We will pull it from the kitchen, from the sink, to the riser. Where the bath and washbasin will be connected - we will install tees. We will provide a point for draining water from the washing machine. It is necessary to install pipes with a slight slope so that water flows into the sewer, and does not stagnate in them. For this we uselevel.

Connect the water supply to the entry point. Immediately after the tap, we will install a water meter, after it - the main water purification filter.

When connecting the counter with the nuts, we wind the linen thread and grease it with sealing paste.

The renovation is slowly coming to an end. Already n the time has come . It is installed on the frame that comes with it. Acrylic bathtubs are a modern industrial product. They are lighter than steel and cast iron, retain heat longer, are silent and practically do not fade.

First we assemble the frame, then we fasten the legs to it.

We fix the frame, connect the drain fittings and install the bath in place. Here we had a little confusion. The bathtub was not installed against the wall, as the width of the room was reduced due to the plaster. I had to sand the corner of the tub a little with sandpaper.

It did not affect the appearance and strength in any way, but it easily fell into place. Now you can connect it to the sewer. We install rubberized skirting boards on the sides, smearing them with sealant.

Next, we put floor cabinet together with the sink by connecting the tap to the water supply system, and the drain to the sewer pipe.

Connect the faucet near the bath.

To install the toilet, you need to make marks in the places of its attachment to the floor,, insert plastic dowels into the holes and fix it with bolts, putting decorative plugs on top of them.

Connecting the toilet sewer riser with the help of corrugation. We connect the water to the tank - the toilet can be used.

We hang a wardrobe and a shelf for toiletries on the wall. We connect the shelf to the electrical network.

We will place various convenient little things on the walls.

Bottom acrylic bath close the screen, hang the curtain.

Attach the shower rack.

Installing in place washing machine, connecting it to the sewerage and water supply system.

We glue skirting boards on the ceiling, hiding the bumps.

To prevent this from happening in the future, you must first decorate the walls, and then make the ceiling. This completes the DIY bathroom renovation.

Video

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is worth considering in any case: payment for work is at least 50% of the cost of materials, that is, self-repair will cost at least one and a half times cheaper, and repairing a bathroom and toilet is expensive in itself. But you need to approach the matter with all responsibility: repairing a bathroom requires not only thorough knowledge, but also quite high skill. Therefore, first of all, you should calculate the costs of self-repair, then carefully study the proposals of professionals and, if there is a master or a company that is ready to repair the bathroom inexpensively compared to your estimated costs, then contact them. In any case, we begin preparations for repairs with a study of prices.

Prices and costs

Materials for bathroom renovation must be chosen carefully. In addition to the usual parameters, the moisture absorption coefficient matters (a bathroom is a room with high humidity), the coefficient of thermal expansion (sudden temperature changes are frequent in the bathroom) and porosity - it is important from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. So you can’t count on “if only it’s cheaper” in any way.

Most likely, it will not be possible to find exact data on the parameters of materials, and it is difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, so you should choose materials specifically designed for bathrooms or for outdoor use. The prices for materials suitable for bathroom renovation are approximately the following:

1. Floor tiles - from 40 rubles / piece (30x30 cm) made in the CIS and from 60 rubles / piece made in Europe with not the best quality, but often the best decor.
2. Tiles for walls - the price per piece is the same, but the size of one tile is smaller.
3. Ceramic granite tiles - from 50 rubles / piece.
4. Glue, cross-stitches, grout for tiles - plus 50% of the cost per unit area.
5. Glass-magnesite sheet (SML) 1220x2440 mm - from 250 rubles / sheet.
6. Laminate - from 300 rubles / board 300x2950 mm.
7. Self-leveling floor - from 220 rubles / 10 liters of finished compound.
8. The same, with the effect of warming (ThermoPlast compound) - from 640 rubles / sq.m.
9. Teak or larch floor - from 500 rubles / sq.m.
10. Polypropylene pipes PPN for cold water - from 24 rubles / sq.m.
11. The same PPR for hot water (reinforced) - from 35 rubles / sq.m.
12. Sewer pipes 50 mm - from 45 rubles / sq.m.
13. Fittings for pipelines and valves - 60% of the price of pipes.
14. PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles / pack of 5 liters.

Based on these prices and knowing the area of ​​​​the floor, ceiling and walls in your bathroom, you can estimate how much it costs to renovate a bathroom on your own. When calculating, you need to take into account the following:

• You will not need all the names of the materials. The selection criteria for a particular case are indicated below in the description of the stages of work.
• All of these materials are equivalent in terms of the quality of the final result. The use of cheaper materials only complicates the choice and delays the work.
• To fight and waste small tiles a margin of 3-5% should be given by the piece: say, 300 pieces come out over the area. on the floor. You need to buy 310-315. If a small bathroom is being renovated, 5-7% should be put on retreat and battle.
• waste board materials is calculated in preparation for the corresponding stage of work, see below for sections.
• For other materials (cement, sand, putty, silicone, etc.), you need to add 35-40% to the amount received.
• The total do-it-yourself work time will be at least 2 weeks for the bath and toilet and at least 2 months when replacing the floor screed.
• Prices for plumbing fixtures depend on your choice of names and manufacturers.

Adviсe:

1. Focusing on prices, be sure to ask potential contractors not only the total cost of the work, but also their prices for individual materials. Suppliers give a discount to good craftsmen, and prices will be lower than store prices. If it comes out more expensive, turn to someone else: before you are either greedy hacks, or clumsy.
2. When choosing a heated towel rail, consider a custom stainless steel option. Chrome-plated brass is most often more expensive, and other varieties are either very expensive (as, for example, with additional electric heating) or are of no good quality.
3. Also consider purchasing a faucet with infrared sensor. It automatically turns on when you bring your hands to it and gives water in advance set temperature. The device is not cheap, but the real savings are about 50% (half!) of water and 35-40% of electricity for heating it.

Sequence of work

Let's say you decide that you can do an economical bathroom renovation on your own. In this case, you need to know that bathroom renovation work is carried out in a certain sequence:

1. The choice of the number and range of plumbing fixtures.
2. Development of design and choice of its colors.
3. Quantity calculation and purchase of finishing materials.
4. Room preparation.
5. Revision of the condition of the floor and the choice of a method for its repair.
6. Procurement of materials for floor repair.
7. Floor repair: waterproofing, screed replacement, insulation.
8. Laying of pipelines.
9. Electrical wiring.
10. and ceiling.
11. Ceiling decoration: insulation and cladding.
12. Floor covering.
13. Wall finishing: cladding, grouting, sealing corners.
14. Ventilation installation.
15. Installation and installation of plumbing.

As you can see, the recommended sequence of work is somewhat different from the traditional one. Explanations follow in the text; we, before describing how to make repairs in the bathroom, will additionally clarify some important points:

• A warm, damp bath is a favorable environment for the reproduction of microorganisms. Therefore, finishing methods like drywall on the crate are not considered: any blind cavity in the wall will sooner or later become a hotbed of infection.
• According to the degree of risk of electric shock, the bathroom is a particularly dangerous room: high humidity, elevated temperature, electrically conductive (wet with any type of coating) floor. Consequently, the issue of sockets and switches in the bathroom is no longer fraught with a risk to life and a considerable fine. How to get around this limitation without formally violating the rules and without endangering your life is described in detail in another article; here we give only general guidelines.
• When planning work in the bathroom, you should in every way avoid the use of ordinary commercial wood, parts and fasteners made of simple steel with any coating, aluminum and other materials that corrode at constantly high humidity or actively absorb moisture.
• In a small apartment, it makes complete sense to install a shower cabin instead of the previous bath; possibly combined with a corner sitting bath. At current prices for drinking water and hot water supply, residents of budget housing do not often want to soak in the bath, and in a small bathroom, this frees up space for a washing machine.

Let's start repairing

Plumbing and design

How to start a bathroom renovation with your own hands? From the development of its design, and design - from the choice of plumbing. We will not be wisecracking about the combination of high and low matters: the complexity of the repair and the cost of it largely depend on these stages. For example: a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, but requires tiles for wall cladding of increased smoothness and without relief, otherwise dirt will slowly spread along the walls from the stand under it. A bathtub faucet also makes it easier to work with pipes, but then you need a separate washbasin faucet.

It is impossible to list all the nuances, we will only report the fact: in identical apartments bathrooms of the same house are approximately the same in appearance, decorated with the same materials from the same supplier, the repair cost differs by up to 20%. Given the total cost of such an expensive object as a bathroom, the amount is considerable. So - we think, we consider, we estimate.

It can also be noticed that in ordinary house you don’t even have to think about a mixer built into the wall: the possibility of this kind of luxury is laid at the design stage of the building. In typical houses, it is unacceptable to hollow out a niche for it.

materials

Pipes

Only suitable material for pipes - polypropylene. Metal-plastic is more expensive and, in terms of technical and economic indicators, is more suitable for or extended pipelines with many bends. They are not observed in the bathroom, but the gaskets in fittings for metal-plastic will someday flow, but propylene can be welded into a solid monolith and hidden in the walls without fear.

As for PVC or polyethylene, pipes from them, according to the totality of their properties, are suitable for country houses, prefabricated panel houses and other cheap short-lived buildings. Steel pipes they are still the cheapest, but, as you know, they rust from the inside, it is difficult to work with them, and in an apartment or a small private house all their cheapness comes to naught.

Advice: when choosing pipes, measure their outer diameter with a caliper. Otherwise, it may turn out that instead of one expensive diamond drill, you will have to buy two.

Fittings and fittings

It is worth talking about fittings for propylene especially. In the bathroom, where access to even open connections is difficult, fittings should only be used from solid plastic. The transition to metal is permissible only when connected to consumers, for example, a boiler (see fig.). It is with the help of such fittings that you can assemble a one-piece water intake and hide it out of sight without thinking about leaks. Of course, this requires a special soldering iron.

Butt jointing of pipes is completely unacceptable. Accordingly, if you need to connect two pipe sections, then this is also done using a special coupling.

Shut-off valves - ball, but again, soldered into plastic, also see the figure on the right. For connection with metal - a branch pipe with thickened walls and a thread in plastic. Practice shows that on hot pipes, a metal threaded insert weakens over time, squeezes out and a leak appears.

Tile

For the floor, the best choice is porcelain stoneware. It is only slightly more expensive than tile, which costs a penny in a small area, but much stronger and not slippery even with a smooth surface. The last thing in the bathroom is vital: fractures and head injuries of those who slip in the bathroom are not the last in medical statistics for ambulances.

When buying, be sure to check the accuracy of the dimensions and the condition of the surface of the tiles:

1. Demand from the seller several pieces from different packages. Refuses - go to another.
2. Put the tiles on the butt on a flat surface close to each other in pairs and, turning 90 degrees, look at the top edge. If in 3-4 pairs the difference in size does not exceed 1 mm, it can be taken from this batch after checking the “face” and glaze.
3. Also, in pairs, we apply the tiles with their front surfaces to each other. There should not be a hillock, “trough” or “propeller” visible to the eye.
4. Next, we take a tile, bring it close to our eyes and look along its surface against the light. There are dots, cracks, a microrainbow - we reject it: in the bathroom it will soon become overgrown with dirt, and you won’t clean it off.

Such high requirements for bathroom tiles are explained not so much by aesthetics as by hygiene: pollution invisible to the eye will become a hotbed of infection, and under the bathroom it will be possible to control the condition of the surface, and it is difficult to wash it. Therefore, it is better not to consider options for “alternative” products at all.

Tool and glue

Glue for tiles is better to take slowly drying - 12-24 hours. With self-laying, this will allow you to work slowly and eliminate flaws without compromising the quality of the coating. Hygiene is again in the first place: the tile can still hold firmly, but in a tiny sink under it, microbes will find a cozy and inaccessible home for you.

The spatula for glue must be selected with the pitch and depth of the teeth indicated on the glue package. If there are no such indications, and this glue has been previously tested and proven to be reliable, then the teeth are from 3 to 6 mm. A coarse-toothed trowel for gluing the floor will give too high rustication of glue, and there will probably be cavities under the tiles.

Immediately look at the tile cutter with a core diamond drill for the outer diameter of the purchased pipes. Templates for laying tiles - plastic crosses, it will be difficult to work with others in the bathroom. You don’t have to worry about a trowel for grouting: instead, a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm in vinyl insulation will do just fine, see below. But be sure to stock up on flannel rags (for the same grout), but it is better to purchase 5-6 cheap microfiber wipes for cleaning glasses.

The remaining materials for bathroom renovation are selected according to the usual criteria for construction work.

Room preparation

First of all, you need to decide what to do with the old bathroom. If cast iron - it is better to leave and. If it is tin, but without enamel chips and somehow sealed fistulas, then the best solution would be. Well, it’s better to hand over the “killed tin” for scrap metal and replace it with acrylic. New cast iron is not much better in quality and durability, and you will have to toss it over and over and risk damaging the newly laid decor.

Next, turn off the water, disconnect cold pipe after tapping to the flush tank and to the kitchen, we throw temporary huts, at least from a garden watering hose. Sitting completely without water for 10 days at least is for sure "neither there nor here." You just need to remember to close the outlets from the risers at night or when leaving the house: a hose is a hose.

Then we clean everything from the bathroom to the bare walls. We haven't touched the sewers yet. We plug the pipes of the heating pipes suitable for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. We turn off the electrical wiring of the bathroom in the junction box; for lighting during operation, you will have to use a portable lamp on an extension cord.

Now you can start cleaning surfaces, starting from the ceiling. This work must be done in goggles and a respirator: there will be a lot of dust. But before starting, we tap and try to drill REGULAR drill walls.

IN panel house some "Brezhnev" projects you can expect a "pleasant" surprise: an internal insulating box made of GWP (gypsum fiber boards). It certainly needs to be removed; you will see the inside of the plates and the crate - you will understand why. Work is being added, and you need to work with the ceiling carefully: substitute props so that it does not collapse.

We knock down the old tile with a perforator with a chisel for concrete. If the tile was laid on a cement mortar, you will have to tinker: there should be no remains of it. paint and upper layer we remove plasters with a drill with a round metal brush 80-100 mm; this is the most dusty and unpleasant part of the work, so it is advisable to send the family somewhere, and close the door to the bathroom tightly or, if already removed, tightly tighten its opening with a film. Otherwise, upon the return of the household, as they say in Odessa, you will have something to listen to. And what to buy again, especially furniture and carpets.

Suddenly, the old plaster turns out to be loose and fragile (in old houses - most often), we remove it to concrete or brick on the walls. If you are lucky and strong, we level it with a drill with a stripping brush, checking the level. There will be a lot of rigmarole, but in the future it will be compensated. We beat the plaster over the electrical wiring with a puncher with a chisel (do not forget to turn it off in the switch box or on the shield!) And remove the wires.

Floor revision

We remove the remains of the cement substrate under the tile from the floor with a perforator with a chisel. If there is reason not to touch the old screed (for example, the washing machine once completely leaked out, and not a drop leaked to the neighbors), then it is better to use a grinder with a diamond cup (bowl-shaped cleaning wheel). The tool is expensive, but in further work it will pay off with interest.

This is followed by a thorough wet cleaning and a careful examination of the old screed. One crack means either with the replacement of the screed, or filling with liquid equalizer. Last in terms of total cost of money, labor and time, optimal, except for the case when it remains or will be installed cast iron bath- its weight with water is more than permissible.

If the bathroom is being renovated in Khrushchev, then the self-leveling floor option turns out to be doubly attractive: for a small room, the cost of even an expensive ThermoPlast will be insignificant compared to the general ones, and the leveler can be poured directly over the old tile. And we immediately get an insulated floor. The self-leveling floor layer, taking into account shrinkage during hardening of 10%, must be at least 30 mm; from this calculation, the required volume is determined. But in any case, you will need a new floor waterproofing.

Waterproofing

You can not use ordinary film for waterproofing in the bathroom. No wonder they say “waterproofing” and not “vapor barrier” in relation to the bathroom. Here, there is no alternative material - aquaizol or its analogues made of polyester (polyethylene terephthalate). If you pour water into a bag of such a film, tie it up and hang it in July in the very heart of the Karakum Desert, then the water will not decrease for a month.

The waterproofing joints are either glued with a special mastic or welded with an industrial hair dryer. The latter requires skill, so first you need to practice on the pieces. Insulation is brought to the walls by at least 25 cm (4000 liters of leaked water per 10 sq. M; tensile strength of the overlap by weight) with folds (without cuts!) At the corners. After laying the insulation, you can fill the floor or make a new screed.

self-leveling floor

The composition for the self-leveling floor should be taken as a two-component one: the initial, viscous fill - it will not leak to the neighbors - and then the leveling liquid or ThermoPlast.

New screed

To insulate the floor, it is impossible to use expanded clay in the bathroom - it is very hygroscopic. Foam concrete or foam concrete are also not suitable - they are fragile. In fact, the only option is glass-magnesite boards, LSU, especially since they cost at the level of drywall. The strength of the LSU allows you to immediately lay a reinforcing mesh on them and install beacons.

The composition of the cement mortar for the screed and the technology of its formation have some features:

• Cement - grades not lower than 400.
• Sand - sifted quartz.
• The proportion of sand to cement is 4:1.
• Water - in a volume equal to the volume of cement.
• Additive to water 10% by volume of PVA emulsion.
• Formation - on markers - "beacons" with a layer of 40-50 mm.
• After leveling with the rule - dotirka to smoothness with a semi-terre.

The latter is necessary, since it is impossible to lay a finishing floor along the logs in the bathroom, and in the case of a tiled floor base surface must also be perfectly level. Also note: the newly formed before continuing work must stand for at least 40 days.

Communications

Open pipelines in the bathroom are not pleasing to the eye, and ditching the walls under them is long, dusty and tiring. In a block house, it is generally impossible to hide sewage in a strobe: fittings will not work, but it cannot be broken. In addition, welded joints are not made on sewer pipes, which means that the sewer must be available for inspection and repair, especially since it is most often clogged.

Sloping pipes

Based on these considerations, we obtain a combined solution: we run all the pipes in a bundle along the bottom and close them with a galvanized slope (see the figure on the right). Glued on the slope with silicone facing tiles matching the walls or contrasting, and with silicone, the slope is glued to the walls and floor after finishing. If necessary, the silicone is cut with a mounting knife, and at the end of the work, the slope can be glued back into place. In the bathroom typical layout the slope will be needed from the wall to the bath screen as much as about a meter.

Strobes for pipes will also be needed, but in minimum quantity and short vertical ones: one - if the mixer is common; two - if the washbasin has its own mixer; 3-4 - if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The latter is far from the best way; natural place a boiler in the "house of rest on need"; who has not read "1001 nights" - in the toilet.

We begin the replacement of pipelines from the sewerage: sewage pipes are quickly assembled on seals with sealant. It is quite possible to deal with them in a day, and then solder water pipes without haste. Pipes are foamed in strobes - this is additional protection against fogging and heat loss, and electrical wiring is laid before plastering.

Wiring is carried out with a double-insulated wire, tightened into a corrugation. Most often, inexpensive plastic is used, but if during the repair it is also planned to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment, then metal is desirable - then all the wiring will be shielded, which is good in all respects.

Heating pipes

And what about the heat pipes of the heated towel rail? We change to metal-plastic. Into the wall (strobes are needed shallow) they will leave and come out with a bend; metal-plastic can be bent. The lower adapter fittings will hide under the slope, and the upper ones will remain where they were - on the dryer. Full cycle towel warmer replacement.

Plaster

Floor finish

Tiles on the floor are laid on glue, but unlike walls (see below) without seams. Glue spills are immediately removed as described above. The glue is applied with a spatula in longitudinal strokes of approximately 0.25-0.35 sq.m; for tiles 30x30 cm - for one next tile.

Laying is carried out from the door so that the cut tiles are under the bathtub and under the slope covering the pipes. Cropped rows (perhaps the penultimate one-piece) are laid after the glue has hardened under the already laid ones, so as not to stomp on them and not knock down the coating.

Each newly laid tile is tapped with a rubber mallet starting from the previous one. They tap in rows of blows, gradually moving towards the free edge. It is important that there are no voids under the tiles, which is why the glue rusts should be parallel, not very wide and deep.

Complete instructions for laying tiles on the floor and walls.

A separate issue is the wooden floor in the bathroom. It is warm, it is even pleasant to stand on it with bare feet. And you can put it at any screed cast iron bath: the pressure of the legs is distributed due to the elasticity of the wood. But the wooden floor for the bathroom requires special execution and will cost more than slab.

Suitable woods are teak and larch. After impregnation with PVA emulsion and finishing coating with liquid (deep penetration) acrylic varnish, you can not think about durability: larch piles, with which the coast of Vasilyevsky Island was strengthened even under Peter the Great, are still standing. But boards or tiles for such a floor must be taken tongue-and-groove and laid similarly to the ceiling, but with an indentation from the walls of 20-25 mm for wood swelling. The gap before installing the skirting boards must be filled with polyurethane foam - there should be no cavities!

Wall covering

Most often, bathroom walls are tiled. Porcelain stoneware is also suitable, but it is still more expensive, and nothing is dropped or spilled on the walls; splashes don't count. Recently, the decoration of the bathroom with plastic panels, inexpensive and hygienic, has become widespread, but a description of the materials for it and the methods of work is the subject of a separate article.

The tiling of the walls is carried out with the cutting of the seams, for which, when laying the tiles on the glue, crosses are first inserted between the tiles. The laying technology itself is the same as for the floor. In the tiles that will fall on the outlets of pipes and electrical wiring, holes are drilled in advance with a diamond crown.

Note: if the design uses a mixer with decorative caps, then a crown is bought larger than diameter pipes. Otherwise, measuring holes for holes is akin to jewelry.

After the glue hardens, the corners are first sealed with silicone. On a silicone sausage through a thin polyethylene film a piece of electrical cable is applied, pressed and immediately removed. The silicone is pressed into the seam and a smooth concave surface is formed. Streaks and influxes of silicone are removed with a rag with vinegar. Additionally, the corner seam can be covered after cutting the rest with a decorative overlay on the same silicone.

Cutting the seams on the plane is carried out with a special composition - it is cheaper than silicone, but not a sealant. They take out the crosses, fill the seam, press with a piece of cable (now it is already possible without a film) and immediately, without delay, remove the remnants with flannel or microfiber. Cutting the seams with your finger leaves micro-roughnesses in which dirt will accumulate.

Plumbing, ventilation and electrical

Installation and installation of plumbing fixtures has no features and has been repeatedly described. In particular, you will:

1. , sink, in some cases -.
2. Optional - .

When installing ventilation, you should inspect the old box removed in preparation for repair. In most cases, even the boxes of the very first Khrushchev after cleaning and repainting are quite suitable for further use. In this case, it is immediately desirable to install a clapper valve into it: cold blowing in winter is excluded.

From stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom, an exhaust fan and a ceiling lamp in a moisture-proof design are acceptable. The fan must also be adapted to moisture: a three-wire cord, with a protective conductor and a Euro plug, with a one-piece sealed (molded) entry into the housing. The washing machine does not apply to stationary electrical installations; its connection when installed in the bathroom -.

About "combination"

Repair of a bathroom combined with a toilet - how to be here? Surely there are some nuances. Yes, there are enough features for repairing a combined bathroom. Therefore, their discussion -.

Output

Taking on the repair of the bathroom on your own, you can save a lot: the event is expensive, and the remuneration of workers is a significant share of the costs. But you can make a lot of mistakes: the work is complex, responsible, requires both basic knowledge and good qualifications of the builder.

Video: self-repairing a bathroom lesson

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Discussion:

Pavel said:

Odnushki repair in a new building. Agreed with the workers. For two months they have been busy in the room and kitchen without touching the bathroom. I thought the bathroom was the first to be refurbished. I sense something wrong, but I don't know what. Tell, knowledgeable people Why pull with a bath?

Vasily said:

I did a bathroom renovation this summer. I did not dare to hire private traders, but ordered from a company. I am very pleased with the quality, everything is done at the highest level, I bought plumbing and tiles at a discount through this company. The guarantee was given for 2 years, and they also gave insurance for the entire apartment. In short, do not mess with private traders, there will be only hemorrhoids, and there will be no savings!

Roman said:

During the renovation in the bathroom, I hid all the pipes (polypropylene) in the wall and laid them with tiles, so I don’t have any pipes in the bathroom. It's been 4 years now and no problems. but so much space was saved by the machine and the “moidodyr” washbasin, and the bathtub is tightly pressed against the wall. The main thing is to buy quality material and do the job in good faith. And I don't trust anyone but myself.

Dmitry Rogoza said:

And I had such an interesting story, I live in an apartment on the ground floor, and naturally the basement is not big under my apartment. Well, the bathroom itself is not big, and therefore I decided to put a shower cabin with my wife in order to save a lot of space in the bathroom, but since the house is old, I decided to look into the basement, I had a constant feeling that we would fail, well, I went down to the basement and there the boards were rotten, the house was old, the floor had to be changed and iron beams put in. Everything seems to have gone well. said:

In terms of the cost of materials and plumbing, the bathroom occupies, perhaps, the first place among other premises of the apartment. Provided, of course, if you are doing a major overhaul here. Toilet bowl, bathtub, faucets, shower - all this translates into a pretty penny. Plus, it's labor intensive. if you want. for example. hide water pipes in the wall. but instead new bath- cast iron or steel - can be inserted into an old acrylic liner. the bath will look like new and keep warm well. The ceiling can be sheathed with plastic panels - this will be on long years- beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.

Alena Demchenko said:

Hello!!! My husband and I bought a house and decided to start repairing the toilet. We changed all the plumbing to plastic. The pipes that turned out to be hidden under the tiles were hidden, but the sewers, then they made a box from the lining and hid, because no one from the neighbors wanted to change the sewers, they said everything suits them. Everything turned out nice and neat. With a new bathroom, plumbing.

Oksana said:

I have a separate bathroom and in my opinion it is very convenient when the family is large. Both in the bathroom and in the toilet there are tiles on the walls and floor. Glued very neatly without seams. Never heard of this technique before. It turned out awesome! But I chose a glossy tile - it is easily soiled. But after cleaning it looks great! Our equipment is not expensive, but durable - we are satisfied.

Christina said:

We somehow also had to tinker with repairs in the bathroom. Although it can be called a repair with a big stretch ... The fact is that at that time we lived in a rented apartment, to put it mildly, with not very good repair. They decided to change the bath - the old one was in a terrible state. I sent my husband for a new one, but inexpensive. Bought. Brought. Italian. I'm shocked. She is low! Almost up to my knee! Like a bidet, only a big, honest word! I had to think about how to lift it. They came up with) They made a “layer cake” from fiberboard boards lying around in the apartment and polyurethane foam, stacked in turn. And then they just put a bath on them. The design, of course, still had the same view, but it became convenient to use the bathroom. For temporary housing - a great option. Then I also had to clean the sink, so that washing machine got in. But there were no problems with this.

Anna said:

Bathroom renovation is not easy. We completely tore off the old floor, right down to the concrete, because we started pipes for heating, so that there would be a warm floor. This is not an easy task, but it is worth it, there is much more heat in the apartment and you can sit on the tiles. My daughter constantly plays on the floor, so the warm floor is an even bigger plus. By the way, we have such a floor in the corridor, bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Plus, the bathroom and toilet were combined, because there was no space at all.

Elena said:

In general, we left a different bathroom and toilet in exactly the same Khrushchev to our parents. There are two parents, it’s crowded, yes, but who needs to go to the toilet, and who needs to wash. During the repair of the toilet, a box in the form of a useful cabinet with a removable manhole cover was installed on pipes with water meters to view the readings. And they also made a small corner sink with a bidet, although now the door has to be opened outward, everything is at hand.

Said):

I did a renovation last summer in the entire apartment, including the bathroom. The biggest expense went to renovating the bathroom. Despite the excuses of his wife, he himself made a frame for a built-in sink and a washing machine, sheathed the frame with moisture-resistant drywall, pasted it with mosaic tiles on all sides. Relatives are generally delighted with the result!

Vadim said:

In our case of repair, the most difficult was, oddly enough, dismantling old plumbing. When making repairs, they never ceased to be surprised at the clumsiness of the builders of the house - not a single even angle, everything rests on a word of honor. And in the bathroom, combined, the toilet was so firmly installed that the day was killed for its dismantling. Well, after dismantling, it took as much leveling mortar to level the floor as it did not go to the kitchen!

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